How to launch on boost

I read somewhere that doing LC >3 times in the cars life time voides the warranty.

I think when the Nissan GT-R first came out, they had some kind of launch-control vs. warranty thing.
 
They did, but only for the first year model (2009). For the 2010 and all others after, Nissan tamed down the launch control parameters to save stress on the transmission. This meant slower 1/4 mile times and pissed off a lot of owners. Ironically, the major tuners came out with more aggressive LC parameters for clients drag stripping their cars.

My 2010 full-bolt-on did a 10.56 @ 130 MPH with a middle of the spectrum LC program. I think the most aggressive LC was worse than the LC on the 2009 models. People felt that Nissan quietly beefed up the transmission as some owners had over 100 launches with the most aggressive programming and no tranny failures.
 
If it damages the car they wouldn't include it as a feature and throw in a comprehensive warranty covering 100K warranty lol. And they would definitely make you sign a contract saying you agree to waive your rights to warranty after using LC x number of times.
 
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If it damages the car they wouldn't include it as a feature and throw in a comprehensive warranty covering 100K warranty lol. And they would definitely make you sign a contract saying you agree to waive your rights to warranty after using LC x number of times.
Agreed, it's also why our launch control is so mediocre.
 
Has anyone found a different spot to snip the green brake wire other than right by the ECU? Street Car Takeover is coming to Texas Motorplex Nov 2 and I need to snip bad to race in the 12 second class....I bet the Stinger would do great......just want the snip to be somewhere else.....help please :) Wash
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Has anyone found a different spot to snip the green brake wire other than right by the ECU? Street Car Takeover is coming to Texas Motorplex Nov 2 and I need to snip bad to race in the 12 second class....I bet the Stinger would do great......just want the snip to be somewhere else.....help please :) Wash
I have always wondered about this. It seems that a wire trace to the "source" of the signal would possibly offer another spot to snip or even plug in a harness adapter/switch (similar to the JB4 fuel wire harness) to avoid a snip altogether. I know nothing about this though, so this could be the stupidest post on the forum. Just hope and wild speculation on my part...
 
Has anyone found a different spot to snip the green brake wire other than right by the ECU? Street Car Takeover is coming to Texas Motorplex Nov 2 and I need to snip bad to race in the 12 second class....I bet the Stinger would do great......just want the snip to be somewhere else.....help please :) Wash
Stingers can run 12's fully stock......high 12's lol.
 
Something discreet and easily removable would be ideal...
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I guess if someone came out with a switch, we would know by now.
 
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LC is getting better in some ecu tunes lately. Not as much need for snipping any more. I reversed mine last weekend. My LC is 3 psi 2400-2500 and snip was 2800-2900 8 psi. LC is just as fast as it opens throttle faster. Just as fast and easier on the trans.
 
I was especially curious about the parking brake and 2nd gear launch. I have seen a RWD Stinger owner get 2700rpm on the EPB and with traction control and stability control turned off, spin the wheels about 60 feet with no intervention by traction control. Makes me wonder what an AWD car could do or a RWD car in 2nd gear using the above method.
 
It's possible to get to the brake signal wire from somewhere else. In fact, I've been trying to find a source for a specific connector (both male and female) so that I could make a plug n play extension harness, similar to that of the o2 sensor extension harnesses used in the JB4.

So far, the connector suppliers I've found are VERY expensive. As in, it would cost me around $250 to build ONE harness. It would be a really good harness with its own lighted switch, but still, too expensive.

Edit: Found another supplier, but they have a 500 unit minimum. And I don't want to make that big of a commitment, nor do I think the interest is that big in a product like this. I'll keep looking, but with all the dead ends I've been seeing I am doubtful that I'll be able to get this going the way I want to.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Todda.....so where is the alternate spot for the snip? Wash

It's on the brake pedal harness. You can see the green wire on the 6 pin harness connector...

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IMG_20200223_202455.webp
IMG_20200223_202410.webp

I've been trying to find a connector supplier so I could fabricate some pnp harnesses, but it looks like Terry might have beat me to it.
 
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ALLRIGHT Toddas ! now we are getting somewhere...thanks ! if i could find the brake pedal harness ....lol
way to go! :thumbup: Wash
 
Getting closer in the ecu flash 1.72 isnt bad and is better than my snip 60s.
Not as good as those few top snip 60s but as good or better than most.
3 to 3.5 psi 2450 rpm
Screenshot_2020-03-12-21-09-21.webp
 
Getting closer in the ecu flash 1.72 isnt bad and is better than my snip 60s.
Not as good as those few top snip 60s but as good or better than most.
3 to 3.5 psi 2450 rpm
View attachment 39282
Isn’t a brake snip safe since you’re not running a piggyback? I thought the problem was piggybacks hiding load values from the ecu and tcu so the transmission wasn’t prepared for the shock load? Is that wrong?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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