So I'm curious now, as other communities (370z, G37, etc) have had luck cutting the brake wire as well but have been able to do so from behind the fuse box. Has anyone had their fuse box out to see if the same wire exists here as well? Or maybe someone has a pinout of the connector? I'm really curious to see where this wire goes.
So I tried unplugging the brake today to get a better launch and I got a smokey burnout above 2500 rpm. I'm an AWD on all seasons. Is this going to break the AWD system?
So I tried unplugging the brake today to get a better launch and I got a smokey burnout above 2500 rpm. I'm an AWD on all seasons. Is this going to break the AWD system?
So I tried unplugging the brake today to get a better launch and I got a smokey burnout above 2500 rpm. I'm an AWD on all seasons. Is this going to break the AWD system?
If you are going to do this with AWD and you are doing brake stands, I would highly recommend pulling the AWD fuse as well so it runs RWD only. Keep on mind the rear diff might not be as durable as the one in a RWD because it's meant to be used in an AWD system. Take that for what it's worth though because I think we are all still searching for the drive train limit on these cars.
Hey... i got a Q about the brake snip.. (im the dude waiting on dealership about me f*cking up something trying without launching at 3500 rpm..) am i supposed to mash the gaz pedal or just enough for it to climb to 3k? And if i mash the pedal is it supposed to stop at a certain rpm? And if im at the drag should i start the manouver at 1st or 2nd yellow light?
Hey... i got a Q about the brake snip.. (im the dude waiting on dealership about me f*cking up something trying without launching at 3500 rpm..) am i supposed to mash the gaz pedal or just enough for it to climb to 3k? And if i mash the pedal is it supposed to stop at a certain rpm? And if im at the drag should i start the manouver at 1st or 2nd yellow light?
By disconnecting the brake sensor you essentially removing the cars ability to detect when you are applying brakes from a systems perspective. So functions like the launch control won't be available because the car is not able to tell the brakes are depressed so hold revs for launch control. You will have to hold the revs yourself.
Any one get the brake mod working on a GT2 AWD? I did the snip and it acts the same as my brake pedal bypass plate did. 2700ish RPM, 5 ish lbs of boots but throttle is still low 30s and then slowly ramps to full throttle by 20 MPH. (throttle spikes to 80 then quickly drops to low 30s and stays there) All in all its about the same as LC which has lower rpm and no boost but opens the throttle faster.
But get this. Day one of snip it worked. Luckily I logged both days or I would thing I was crazy. I got near full throttle during breaking (80) and immediate full throttle once rolling. Nice smoky burnouts. Yesterday the "auto start" light on the dash was flashing when brake snip worked very well and not flashing today. Yesterday BMS burnout switch, today BMS snooze switch. Wondering if drive by wire impacts something. Saw one other guy on N54tech said his isn't working very well either.
I did 4 1/4 mile and 2 - 1/8th mile tests today on the switch and one 1/4 mile using normal LC.
The Da is soooo bad....but I was fooling around making some pulls....guess what? I made some pulls with no launch control and short shifting and my 0 to 60's were almost identical...crazy ! Wash
Any one get the brake mod working on a GT2 AWD? I did the snip and it acts the same as my brake pedal bypass plate did. 2700ish RPM, 5 ish lbs of boots but throttle is still low 30s and then slowly ramps to full throttle by 20 MPH. (throttle spikes to 80 then quickly drops to low 30s and stays there) All in all its about the same as LC which has lower rpm and no boost but opens the throttle faster.
But get this. Day one of snip it worked. Luckily I logged both days or I would thing I was crazy. I got near full throttle during breaking (80) and immediate full throttle once rolling. Nice smoky burnouts. Yesterday the "auto start" light on the dash was flashing when brake snip worked very well and not flashing today. Yesterday BMS burnout switch, today BMS snooze switch. Wondering if drive by wire impacts something. Saw one other guy on N54tech said his isn't working very well either.
I did 4 1/4 mile and 2 - 1/8th mile tests today on the switch and one 1/4 mile using normal LC.
Lots of dragys none very exciting. No benefit yet. Slower than usual. When it worked yesterday it was shocking. But just some in town launches. Reset the ecu to see if it comes back. Need to test still.
Edit - my car is just a little off right now. Maybe due to the ECU unplug while snipping. But with more testing, even the lesser brake snip mode (limp snip) is consistently .1 faster in 60 foot and 0-60 than LC.
Auto start will flash with switch. I've also noticed times when it doesnt. With the switch off shes back to normal. I only engage the switch when needed then it's right back off.
Last night I left the ECU unplugged a few hours and left the burn out switch to on to replicate install day. Went for a test drive and still limited throttle. Did 2 tests, and as I was pulling into the garage, I saw my auto shut off light start flashing. So out for another test and tire smoking fun had resumed.
Left the switch in burn out mode and later went for another drive and the light is out and the throttle reduced again. For me its only working fully with when the auto shut off flashing. The brake signal is gone as LC wont engage but inconsistent and unusable or unpredictable for sure. Highly suspect this is a GT2 thing with drive by wire and for some reason the ECU isn't getting the message the same way as it is on the GTs.
I'm sorry your car is being finicky.. Was looking forward to your results.
Brainstorming (which I've sure you've already done): maybe it has to get to a condition where auto-shut-off COULD kick in, and then it tries it and THEN detects the missing brake signal and turns off some other stuff / flashes the light? Maybe play with the auto-off button (turn it off / on, etc)?
I'm sorry your car is being finicky.. Was looking forward to your results.
Brainstorming (which I've sure you've already done): maybe it has to get to a condition where auto-shut-off COULD kick in, and then it tries it and THEN detects the missing brake signal and turns off some other stuff / flashes the light? Maybe play with the auto-off button (turn it off / on, etc)?
I was thinking the same. I pushed the button on and off and also tried to make conditions where auto stop would and would not work like high fan speeds and AC. Nothing worked. This milder mode, I'm calling it "Limp Snip", is actually pretty good to. You still get all the RPM and half the boost but the throttle opens slower up to 20 MPH and no wheel spin. When I'm, in super snip mode it is an uncontrollable beast. Fraction of a second brake boost and it roasts the tires.
So far limp snip is running .1 faster in 60 foot and 0-60 and has an odd timing dip before WOT that the AH and LC launches do not. Super Snip also has this timing drop. But if I can get that timing to smooth out I suspect this would be at least .15 faster than LC currently is.
Wash
