How to launch on boost

And if im being honest, anybody doing that brake boost trick on E/T Streets or any other drag radial, will be out on a limb.. Nobody has done any load tests and launch tests that severe under boost yet, and if you dead hook, your probably going to snap an axle... I personally run R888r and it has just enough spin to launch effectively but i can tell that any more traction would be violent.
 
Personally am at over 30 launches with this trick.. I did not set the record with it though, you would need better tires and more faith in your drivetrain to set a better time using this as the loss of traction is too severe..
Using "this trick" as in pulling the AWD fuse and putting a piece of metal on the brake switch to fool the system into thinking you're not on the brake right?
Also when you're done hooning around you just pop the AWD fuse back in and everything is back to normal?
 
Also does this allow you to drift? The torque vectoring AWD really kills your drifts. It'll probably save my ass one day but sometimes I want the back end to kick out haha
 
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Using "this trick" as in pulling the AWD fuse and putting a piece of metal on the brake switch to fool the system into thinking you're not on the brake right?
Also when you're done hooning around you just pop the AWD fuse back in and everything is back to normal?
I just outright pull the switch off.. and yes it allows you to powerslide... drifting is when you pull the AWD fuse too..
 
And if im being honest, anybody doing that brake boost trick on E/T Streets or any other drag radial, will be out on a limb.. Nobody has done any load tests and launch tests that severe under boost yet, and if you dead hook, your probably going to snap an axle... I personally run R888r and it has just enough spin to launch effectively but i can tell that any more traction would be violent.
Yep not sure how strong the axles are but I imagine they'd snap pretty easily with a slick
 
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Yep not sure how strong the axles are but I imagine they'd snap pretty easily with a slick

I have nt05's on. And a trailer on call just in case it happens. With my tracks prep I decided against swapping to my ET streets.
 
I have nt05's on. And a trailer on call just in case it happens. With my tracks prep I decided against swapping to my ET streets.

I think maybe you guys have it backwards.....snapping drivetrains comes from dead hooking with no slip anywhere but the drive train....So when I take my z06 to the track she gets ET streets for grip BUT the slicks also for some sidewall slippage/give
I have a built Getrag with hardened long and short shafts.....two times the rear broke were with street radials' (NITTO)....never ever hurt the rear with ET slicks....they have sidewall ....the radials like ours have no sidewall....yes mines a manual so that makes a difference.....long story short slicks have some sidewall slippage ...dr's don't...and that's what causes damage....its hard to get the story past AAA for a flatbed 70 miles away from home at the strip at nite and no I wasn't racing...the damn thing wont start....lol :) Wash
 
And if im being honest, anybody doing that brake boost trick on E/T Streets or any other drag radial, will be out on a limb.. Nobody has done any load tests and launch tests that severe under boost yet, and if you dead hook, your probably going to snap an axle... I personally run R888r and it has just enough spin to launch effectively but i can tell that any more traction would be violent.

There’s this stinger in socal went to the dealer to claim a broken/snap axle. They replaced it but miles after he drove off it started making noise in the diff. Long story short they r now investigating to see if it was cause natural or by other ways aka brake boosting. Car only has 12k miles Their is evidence that show signs of burnouts like tire residue on back from behind tire. I don’t think it’s going to be covered. But we shall see
 
There’s this stinger in socal went to the dealer to claim a broken/snap axle. They replaced it but miles after he drove off it started making noise in the diff. Long story short they r now investigating to see if it was cause natural or by other ways aka brake boosting. Car only has 12k miles Their is evidence that show signs of burnouts like tire residue on back from behind tire. I don’t think it’s going to be covered. But we shall see


THe only advertising KIA has done with this car is either hauling ass on a track, burnouts, and drifting. Seems like a silly thing to deny. Given they marketed the car to semi-wealthy hoonigans. Let’s face it, we aren’t driving M5’s lol.
 
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Let me tell you, plenty of M5 drivers give them plenty...

Agreed. I didn’t mean that post as anything negative. A good bit of our members can afford M5’s. But the Stinger wasn’t targeted towards those buyers. However, still targeted to the tire smoking drifty sporty crowd.
 
Agreed. I didn’t mean that post as anything negative. A good bit of our members can afford M5’s. But the Stinger wasn’t targeted towards those buyers. However, still targeted to the tire smoking drifty sporty crowd.
Yep, I could afford an M5 but I'd much rather have the Stinger, my Ducati, our house on the lake, and a boat. lol
 
I think maybe you guys have it backwards.....snapping drivetrains comes from dead hooking with no slip anywhere but the drive train....So when I take my z06 to the track she gets ET streets for grip BUT the slicks also for some sidewall slippage/give
I have a built Getrag with hardened long and short shafts.....two times the rear broke were with street radials' (NITTO)....never ever hurt the rear with ET slicks....they have sidewall ....the radials like ours have no sidewall....yes mines a manual so that makes a difference.....long story short slicks have some sidewall slippage ...dr's don't...and that's what causes damage....its hard to get the story past AAA for a flatbed 70 miles away from home at the strip at nite and no I wasn't racing...the damn thing wont start....lol :) Wash

This is correct, drag radials are more dangerous for your drivetrain than slicks. The only reason you would use a drag radial is if you're driving your car to the track, a slick is always the better bet if you can change tires at the track.

The truth of the matter is, we simply don't know what our drivetrain can handle yet, saying you're going to snap an axle if you do the brake boosting mod is just a guess at best. Has anyone been getting wheel hop with this mod? That's when it really gets dangerous.
 
This is correct, drag radials are more dangerous for your drivetrain than slicks. The only reason you would use a drag radial is if you're driving your car to the track, a slick is always the better bet if you can change tires at the track.

The truth of the matter is, we simply don't know what our drivetrain can handle yet, saying you're going to snap an axle if you do the brake boosting mod is just a guess at best. Has anyone been getting wheel hop with this mod? That's when it really gets dangerous.

I could be wrong, but I would assume the front would be more susceptible to wheel hop.
 
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quick question for those who have tried this brake switch. Do you have to turn off traction and stability control? auto stop?
 
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quick question for those who have tried this brake switch. Do you have to turn off traction and stability control? auto stop?
I would assume auto stop is not going to work with the switch - if the ECU is not seeing the brake being engaged it's not going to engage auto stop. I would also assume it's in your best interest to turn traction and stability off - otherwise the car will still sense wheelspin and cut throttle
 
Well if you disable traction and stability wont that engage launch control? Or maybe not if you dont mash the throttle?
I would assume auto stop is not going to work with the switch - if the ECU is not seeing the brake being engaged it's not going to engage auto stop. I would also assume it's in your best interest to turn traction and stability off - otherwise the car will still sense wheelspin and cut throttle
 
Well if you disable traction and stability wont that engage launch control? Or maybe not if you dont mash the throttle?
Launch control will only engage if the car thinks you have the brake pressed. Since that won't happen, launch control won't engage
 
I could be wrong, but I would assume the front would be more susceptible to wheel hop.
FWD based platforms are very susceptible to wheel hop, it can happen on RWD based cars too though. Wheel hop is really bad regardless.
 
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