dba Brake Rotors

Picked up my new front pads today to go with my new front rotors.
Just waiting now for rear rotors & pads to be released before going in for the full change out.
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Dba have now listed front & rear pads on their site, so rear rotors should not be too far away from being listed either.
A442988C-5929-4462-9297-0FC5181AE40E.webp
 
After my previous pad post, dba released front & rear pads for the Stinger, picked them up today.
Once rear rotors are released everything will be fitted up together.
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This is what the pads look like.
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This is what the pads look like.
View attachment 36361

Great to see more brake options for the Stinger Brembos!

A more robust brake pad will do wonders for the brake vibration issue plaguing some of us GT owners.
I was about ready to pull the trigger on a set of these until I noticed something...

A quick bit of research revealed that the DNA pads are two different pad compounds.
The fronts are more aggressive and rated GG.
Those rear pads are less grippy and rated FF.

This is important to know because the Stinger Brembo system is (in my opinion) to heavily front biased.
Simply put, the rear brakes are not working hard enough. On the stock RWD GT's the front brakes ALWAYS reach lockup/ABS before the rear do. This is very old school brake tuning. Back in the day (before ABS), engineers designed in extra front bias because it kept the car stable during panic stops and low traction situations. If the fronts lock first you skid in a straight line, if the rears lock first the back end can get loose. Made plenty of sense back then.

Eventually ABS, Electronic Brake Force Distribution (EBD), and Stability Control entered the market.
These systems, individually and in combination, have allowed engineers to shift more and more brake bias to the rear of the car.
Mind you, the front brakes still do the majority of braking. Just note that rear brakes are doing more than in the old days, particularly under light braking. The electronic systems allow more rear brake pressure without fear of losing control or vehicle stability.
The benefits are numerous.
Additional rear bias:
Provides lower stopping distances - By maximizing braking force at each wheel.
Reduces brake dive - Stronger rear brake application resists the forward pitch of the vehicles chassis.
Reduces system fatigue - By braking each wheel more evenly, the fronts are less burdened.

Anyway, back to the Stinger. I've found that the fronts lockup/ABS point comes wayyyy before that of the rears.
With that bias so heavily loaded up front, the front brakes are always stressed easily while the rears seem to be mostly along for the ride. It takes relatively little brake pedal application to overcome the front traction, making it hard to fully use the full traction the rear tires have to offer.

Adding gripper/better pads up front than at the rear, is going to exacerbate this issue a bit. It's just not optimal (as far as I can tell).
I did an experiment and added OEM Euro Semimetallic pads to the rear and left the OEM ceramic Pads up front. Instantly, the brake bias shifted to the rear and felt like most modern vehicles. The rear brakes were then braking to their full capacity and the stopping characteristics changed much for the better. I didn't keep this combo, as the rear Euro pads were downright filthy. But the braking was excellent. All brakes reached lockup/abs at about the same time. And at low speeds/heavy braking, the rears reached abs slightly before the fronts. A very sporty setup indeed. I tried other pad combinations, but ended up going back to the stock ceramics because I was spoiled by their dust free operation.

Through my experimenting I found out that alot of the aftermarket pads were not really an "upgrade."
Most diminished initial bite. At the time, most were only available for the front. And all I tried had more brake dust. Most made occasional noise. That left the aftermarket pads really only shining at preventing deposits and track fade. However, this was accomplished by muting the brake "feel" on the streets a bit.

I guess all of this is a long way of saying, I wish dBa had made both the front and rear in BOTH Xp and Sp compounds.
I'm extra picky about brakes and feel this car needs matched compounds front and rear.
Most probably won't even notice, though.

I do see that dBa has specific part #'s for the Stingers pads. So it does seem that they made these pads uniquely for the Stinger, rather than just repurposing GM/Honda/Subaru/Mitsubishi /etc pads that also fit. This is good, if they truly tested these on the Stinger, the bias issue would be rather obvious and hopefully they'd have addressed it if need be. We can't see the actual friction material in those pics, so dBa may have adjusted the pad shape to compensate. We'll see.

Also this is just my armchair assessment of the Stingers braking system. Perhaps Kia had a specific reason for the GT's seemingly excessive front bias. It just comes across as less than optimal to me. For the record, my last 2015 BMW 535i was setup the same way... So I may very well be missing the point of why these two cars are turned this way. These are the only two cars I've driven in recent years that are like this. Everything else uses the new brake tuning philosophy.
 
Great to see more brake options for the Stinger Brembos!

A more robust brake pad will do wonders for the brake vibration issue plaguing some of us GT owners.
I was about ready to pull the trigger on a set of these until I noticed something...

A quick bit of research revealed that the DNA pads are two different pad compounds.
The fronts are more aggressive and rated GG.
Those rear pads are less grippy and rated FF.

This is important to know because the Stinger Brembo system is (in my opinion) to heavily front biased.
Simply put, the rear brakes are not working hard enough. On the stock RWD GT's the front brakes ALWAYS reach lockup/ABS before the rear do. This is very old school brake tuning. Back in the day (before ABS), engineers designed in extra front bias because it kept the car stable during panic stops and low traction situations. If the fronts lock first you skid in a straight line, if the rears lock first the back end can get loose. Made plenty of sense back then.

Eventually ABS, Electronic Brake Force Distribution (EBD), and Stability Control entered the market.
These systems, individually and in combination, have allowed engineers to shift more and more brake bias to the rear of the car.
Mind you, the front brakes still do the majority of braking. Just note that rear brakes are doing more than in the old days, particularly under light braking. The electronic systems allow more rear brake pressure without fear of losing control or vehicle stability.
The benefits are numerous.
Additional rear bias:
Provides lower stopping distances - By maximizing braking force at each wheel.
Reduces brake dive - Stronger rear brake application resists the forward pitch of the vehicles chassis.
Reduces system fatigue - By braking each wheel more evenly, the fronts are less burdened.

Anyway, back to the Stinger. I've found that the fronts lockup/ABS point comes wayyyy before that of the rears.
With that bias so heavily loaded up front, the front brakes are always stressed easily while the rears seem to be mostly along for the ride. It takes relatively little brake pedal application to overcome the front traction, making it hard to fully use the full traction the rear tires have to offer.

Adding gripper/better pads up front than at the rear, is going to exacerbate this issue a bit. It's just not optimal (as far as I can tell).
I did an experiment and added OEM Euro Semimetallic pads to the rear and left the OEM ceramic Pads up front. Instantly, the brake bias shifted to the rear and felt like most modern vehicles. The rear brakes were then braking to their full capacity and the stopping characteristics changed much for the better. I didn't keep this combo, as the rear Euro pads were downright filthy. But the braking was excellent. All brakes reached lockup/abs at about the same time. And at low speeds/heavy braking, the rears reached abs slightly before the fronts. A very sporty setup indeed. I tried other pad combinations, but ended up going back to the stock ceramics because I was spoiled by their dust free operation.

Through my experimenting I found out that alot of the aftermarket pads were not really an "upgrade."
Most diminished initial bite. At the time, most were only available for the front. And all I tried had more brake dust. Most made occasional noise. That left the aftermarket pads really only shining at preventing deposits and track fade. However, this was accomplished by muting the brake "feel" on the streets a bit.

I guess all of this is a long way of saying, I wish dBa had made both the front and rear in BOTH Xp and Sp compounds.
I'm extra picky about brakes and feel this car needs matched compounds front and rear.
Most probably won't even notice, though.

I do see that dBa has specific part #'s for the Stingers pads. So it does seem that they made these pads uniquely for the Stinger, rather than just repurposing GM/Honda/Subaru/Mitsubishi /etc pads that also fit. This is good, if they truly tested these on the Stinger, the bias issue would be rather obvious and hopefully they'd have addressed it if need be. We can't see the actual friction material in those pics, so dBa may have adjusted the pad shape to compensate. We'll see.

Also this is just my armchair assessment of the Stingers braking system. Perhaps Kia had a specific reason for the GT's seemingly excessive front bias. It just comes across as less than optimal to me. For the record, my last 2015 BMW 535i was setup the same way... So I may very well be missing the point of why these two cars are turned this way. These are the only two cars I've driven in recent years that are like this. Everything else uses the new brake tuning philosophy.
Nice write up, I based my pad selection as per the below table from dba, refer line 3 performance, so on time I will see how they perform
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______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Nice write up, I based my pad selection as per the below table from dba, refer line 3 performance, so on time I will see how they perform
View attachment 36415

I can't get the actual part numbers to show on the website. But looking at the chart you posted, it seems possible that both the front and rear pads are available in BOTH Xp and Sp friction pad materials. This would be awesome for those interested in tuning their brake bias one way or another.

I'll give them a call and see. If they do offer the XP for the rear too, I'll pickup a set and some SP for the fronts so we can share info about how each combo works.

In a brake pad, I need: (in this order)
Great Initial Bite
Quiet
Fade Resistance
Low Dust / Easy to Remove Dust

Pad/rotor wear doesn't bother me, as long as it is not egregious. I'll replace as needed.
And of course being a Stinger owner, I've added a new qualification for my pads...
They must not leave excessive deposits or transfer on the rotor, to the point that runout/vibration is created.

The OEM pads are pretty good with the exception of the deposits from the ceramics or the nasty/sticky brake dust from the Euro semimetallics. Almost Kia...Almost. Now that I think about it the Kia Euro pads were quite sweet. If these dBa's don't work out, I'll probably swap my Euros back in and just deal with the dust.
 
I can't get the actual part numbers to show on the website. But looking at the chart you posted, it seems possible that both the front and rear pads are available in BOTH Xp and Sp friction pad materials. This would be awesome for those interested in tuning their brake bias one way or another.

I'll give them a call and see. If they do offer the XP for the rear too, I'll pickup a set and some SP for the fronts so we can share info about how each combo works.

In a brake pad, I need: (in this order)
Great Initial Bite
Quiet
Fade Resistance
Low Dust / Easy to Remove Dust

Pad/rotor wear doesn't bother me, as long as it is not egregious. I'll replace as needed.
And of course being a Stinger owner, I've added a new qualification for my pads...
They must not leave excessive deposits or transfer on the rotor, to the point that runout/vibration is created.

The OEM pads are pretty good with the exception of the deposits from the ceramics or the nasty/sticky brake dust from the Euro semimetallics. Almost Kia...Almost. Now that I think about it the Kia Euro pads were quite sweet. If these dBa's don't work out, I'll probably swap my Euros back in and just deal with the dust.
You should be able to get SP or XP for both front & rear use the part number listed then just end it with either SP or XP to suit your requirements.
 
NEWS FLASH on the rear rotors:
Just received an email from dba & I quote:
“From what production tells me, the DBA43343 4000 HD type rotors (340x22mm) are now available, & production can manufacture the T3 slotted, if order is received.”

Taking the above into account, therefore:
Slotted Part Number should be DBA43343S
Cross-drilled & Dimpled Part Number should be DBA43343XD
 
Picked up the rear rotors this morning, stage 1 of upgrades are now complete.
96FE1AD6-176D-4C38-916D-82F5FCB4B275.webp E97AB5AD-8A20-47D2-AD95-8CD0C36B5C3A.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Nice! I hope DBA USA sells them here. I really like the looks of it and want it on my Stinger:D
Best way is to message DBA US, quote the part numbers off the boxes in the photo.
If your Brembo’s are the same as here then it should not be a problem.
I was emailing DBA AUS & they gave me the part number for the rear rotors & they are not listed on their website yet.
Ordered them last Monday & picked up this morning as they are made here in Sydney.
 
______________________________
Best way is to message DBA US, quote the part numbers off the boxes in the photo.
If your Brembo’s are the same as here then it should not be a problem.
I was emailing DBA AUS & they gave me the part number for the rear rotors & they are not listed on their website yet.
Ordered them last Monday & picked up this morning as they are made here in Sydney.

Gonna try and do that! I think we all have the same size Brembo's Brakes.
 
Stage 2 of upgrades now complete, dba front & rear discs & pads all fitted this afternoon.
Fronts:
37BC31A7-3589-4D49-9AFE-2F1CF926DA51.webp D0940C70-E028-49D7-B7F8-578F9E0356CC.webp 617E1D19-70C4-4C21-90E0-910A591D7755.webp 84787874-4F22-46D1-85B6-F7386FCBD6BC.webp
Rears:
CCA87C29-A0CA-49EE-B2EB-5D858CED3701.webp D6A19129-1CD8-4C80-9708-C48AEFCEBCBA.webp BD42AC87-A75A-43D6-BBD5-A4EAB1082A6F.webp 479C50FC-662F-4294-9D14-298E51263210.webp 21DA0AA2-6A92-4CF0-8799-7E858ADC80BF.webp
 
@Stinger GT SS ... very nice setup, I plan to do something similar maybe this summer. Got a question for you...based upon your pictures and not related to brakes. You have the adjustable endlinks with the Eibachs... is your car lowered? I ask because I've got the eibachs with the stock end links and stock height. Whenever I go through dips or rough road I feel something not right, as if something is hitting. I was told by a mechanic that is could be a bad shock, but had KIA look at it and they said it's all good. As a matter of fact they couldn't duplicate the problem. I'm thinking maybe it's the stock endlinks that aren't giving me the right "movement"? Is that a thing you think maybe?
 
I bought some used sp500 pads + drilled/slotted (dba, I think) rotors from someone on here that was returning to stock. The sp500 pads seem to be held at a bit of an angle due to the OEM pad clip and at almost every 1st 2-3 stops of the day, they squeal (passenger side). Will have to see if anything unusual is going on. The rotors don't seem to have even wear - mostly at the outside edge. Still stop fine, and activated the ABS numerous times during the auto-x I was at on the weekend, and they stopped great when I did a little bedding in, so they seem to be stopping well, but..

I agree with your assessment that the brakes are front-biased. After doing an auto-x, agree even more. I have some rear G-Loc (similar to Carbotech Bobcats/1521) pads ready to go in the back when I feel better / have less work. May also try back to stock pads on the front with the drilled/slotted rotors. I generally don't go for drilled/slotted, but I got a great deal, so I thought I'd try it. I've also heard the 2019 MY isn't as noticeably bad for vibration (I hadn't really noticed much), so maybe it didn't really need doing. Once this combo heats up, I get WAY more vibration than I ever did from the stock pads/rotors. But it does go away when they cool down, so not sure exactly what the best way to do this is.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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