StingertimeNC
1000 Posts Club!
Looks good, have you thought about lowering springs? something mild, like 1 inch or so, just to close up the gap? Car looks great.
No, not planning on it. I know it'd look great, but also realize that I was driving on dirt so the gap appears more pronounced. With clean tires and less HDR the gap doesn't look out of place.Looks good, have you thought about lowering springs? something mild, like 1 inch or so, just to close up the gap? Car looks great.
Yes, make the suspension non-functional!Looks good, have you thought about lowering springs? something mild, like 1 inch or so, just to close up the gap? Car looks great.
How hard do you push it on the track, turning, braking, etc.? These, with relatively minor or small changes in grade are what's going to bottom suspension bad and bend stuff. It's the 9/10ths to 10/10ths driving. The other thing about messing with that end is you almost never approach that end in normal driving...but when you do, it's likely an emergency where you need it to work properly.I get not everyone loves a drop, but my car handles great on the road and at the track with just a one inch drop, sways, and stock electronic dampers. I definitely wouldn’t call it non-functional, just not necessarily functioning the same as the manufacturer intended. Whatever I lose in function, I gain in looks and stiffness so it’s worth it to me.
I was about to say, and then you posted pics.Yo!
Sending my stinger on Japan Racing JR 11 R19 8.5J ET30 with tires 255/35/19 all around.
Absolutely no problem with clearence, looks flush and the grip ... OH boy the grip. Square 255/35/19, that's the way stinger
Square 255 is good!Yo!
Sending my stinger on Japan Racing JR 11 R19 8.5J ET30 with tires 255/35/19 all around.
Absolutely no problem with clearence, looks flush and the grip ... OH boy the grip. Square 255/35/19, that's the way stinger should come out from factory
Yeah, pics uploaded rotated, dunno why. Well first of all, the wheel itself is about 8mm from the strut - and as those two parts don't move at any condition, it is fine.I was about to say, and then you posted pics.Nice! I think about going squared, but don't want 245 in the back: so your example has me wondering about 255 in front: whereas up to this point I've been leery of thinking about that, due to a number of posts describing clearance issues, or such tight clearance that I would not want to deal with that. How much are your 255s in front clearing the suspension and fenders by? I mean, I can see that straight ahead, no problem with the fenders, but when turning, especially at speed?
It's the uploader: an update messed it up, is my guess. Anyway, resize them, and any pics that you flipped at your end will upload here right side up.Yeah, pics uploaded rotated, dunno why.
Sounds good! This is very useful going forward: I can now not discourage anyone from running stock wheels and the rear OEM tires on the front wheels (as far as clearance goes; I'm still not sold entirely on having "fat" tires on rims that narrow, but your experience so far is encouraging). Here's what the calculator shows, there are not any issues going by it:Well first of all, the wheel itself is about 8mm from the strut - and as those two parts don't move at any condition, it is fine.
I was worried about the tire clearance, but so far so good. I've had several spirited drives (like really fast on backroad) and no wierd noises from the suspension/tire and no signs of contact on inner part of the tire.
This week I'll go for a track also and if there won't be any issue, then I doubt that there can be any possible issue with 255 all around.
Low stiff sidewalls are best for pushing the car hard, you typically want the widest possible wheels and skinniest tires that fit them (within the NORMAL width ranges for that wheel size).I'll try to take picture of the wheel/tire/strut with car on the ground. Yeah well I spent a few hours reading through the threads, calculating on the wheel calculator and costed me 2 set of wheels (as others have mentioned, ET doesn't mean caliper clearence will be fine ). Grabbed my balls and made the right choice.
I do not recommend fat tires on 8J either. I had opposite experience, 225/40/19 on 8.5J and the stretch was so bad. The ride was noisier, grip a bit worse when you really pushed the car (because of the stretch, the tire tend to have more oval shape and thus contact with the surface wasnt 100%). Only consequence that I can imagine with fat tires is more flex in the sidewall and thus a bit more floaty front feeling when pushing the car.
I'd personally skip OEM rears with hubs because of the hubs. That's a piece that can have an unpleasent consequences. Personally I'd pick non-OEM wheels that might be more sexier, lighter and overall better.
Probably. But then, I am a grandpa and drive like one. I can make my tires sing on a sustained curve and approach the understeer point (where the steering wheel snaps to the inside and the car does not respond: I used to call these "jabs of oversteer", but I was mislabeling what I was experiencing), but that is a rare event for me. Perhaps, going by what you said here, if I went 255 in front and rear, I would be able to surprise myself with how aggressively the handling would respond to me pushing harder?I would submit that 225 with lower sidewalls is not your problem, it's simply that it's an insufficient width in the first place.