Wheel/size/offset and tire/size/profile...can be confusing.

Looks good, have you thought about lowering springs? something mild, like 1 inch or so, just to close up the gap? Car looks great.
 
Looks good, have you thought about lowering springs? something mild, like 1 inch or so, just to close up the gap? Car looks great.
No, not planning on it. I know it'd look great, but also realize that I was driving on dirt so the gap appears more pronounced. With clean tires and less HDR the gap doesn't look out of place.

I've had bad experiences in the past upgrading suspension. It's one of those things if you don't do in the first 5k miles things wear unevenly and cause problems down the proverbial road. Also there are so many things to manage like alignment, spring rates to damping to bushing hardness, F/R balance, L/R balance, frame stiffness... I don't trust myself to do better than a German guy.

Though ... Now that I'm thinking, I'd love a very slightly stiffer set of bushings...
 
Looks good, have you thought about lowering springs? something mild, like 1 inch or so, just to close up the gap? Car looks great.
Yes, make the suspension non-functional!
 
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I get not everyone loves a drop, but my car handles great on the road and at the track with just a one inch drop, sways, and stock electronic dampers. I definitely wouldn’t call it non-functional, just not necessarily functioning the same as the manufacturer intended. Whatever I lose in function, I gain in looks and stiffness so it’s worth it to me.
 
I get not everyone loves a drop, but my car handles great on the road and at the track with just a one inch drop, sways, and stock electronic dampers. I definitely wouldn’t call it non-functional, just not necessarily functioning the same as the manufacturer intended. Whatever I lose in function, I gain in looks and stiffness so it’s worth it to me.
How hard do you push it on the track, turning, braking, etc.? These, with relatively minor or small changes in grade are what's going to bottom suspension bad and bend stuff. It's the 9/10ths to 10/10ths driving. The other thing about messing with that end is you almost never approach that end in normal driving...but when you do, it's likely an emergency where you need it to work properly.

I do get wanting to tighten up the suspension if it's lazy, my BMW with electronic suspension was just too soft, Dinan tune helped. Not necessarily a wheel travel problem, but definitely a softness problem. IMO they've watered down a lot of these cars to make them appeal to the masses. I couldn't get sport suspension in that car though because they didn't allow it in F-series with AWD. As I understand it, that has finally changed with G.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I push it pretty hard, but I’m a novice to intermediate driver. Probably driving it at 85-90% at most and that’s plenty for a great time. I only go to VIRGINIA international raceway. Lots of curbing/gators to drive over but no crazy or abrupt dips to cause bottoming out. Lots of long sweepers and straights. Setup is fine for that track.
 
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Hello everybody!
Following my messages couple weeks back, I finaly throw my choice on a rim model and they arrived yesterday so I was thinking to share my excitment with the community

The tires were not delivered yet
unfortunately so I only did a test fit and I'm quite happy with the result.

Without any more delay, I chose the Japan Racing JR18 in Matte Bronze in 20", specification below:
Front - 20x8.5, Offset 30
Back - 20x10, Offset 40
I got black lugnuts with them and the center rings to complete the fitting.

For the tires I'll go with 245/35 front and 275/30 rear, the only model available at the moment is Dunlop SP sport Maxx 050, this was not my first choice but the other model proposed were not available (Yokohama- Advan sport V1055, Bridgestone Potenza sport, Michelin- pilot sport 4S) so I hope the Dunlop will be good enough to keep the car on track.

Final installation tomorrow


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Brunoc66, your new wheels look great!
 
Yo!

Sending my stinger on Japan Racing JR 11 R19 8.5J ET30 with tires 255/35/19 all around.

Absolutely no problem with clearence, looks flush and the grip ... OH boy the grip. Square 255/35/19, that's the way stinger should come out from factory
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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Yo!

Sending my stinger on Japan Racing JR 11 R19 8.5J ET30 with tires 255/35/19 all around.

Absolutely no problem with clearence, looks flush and the grip ... OH boy the grip. Square 255/35/19, that's the way stinger
I was about to say, and then you posted pics. :D Nice! I think about going squared, but don't want 245 in the back: so your example has me wondering about 255 in front: whereas up to this point I've been leery of thinking about that, due to a number of posts describing clearance issues, or such tight clearance that I would not want to deal with that. How much are your 255s in front clearing the suspension and fenders by? I mean, I can see that straight ahead, no problem with the fenders, but when turning, especially at speed?
 
Yo!

Sending my stinger on Japan Racing JR 11 R19 8.5J ET30 with tires 255/35/19 all around.

Absolutely no problem with clearence, looks flush and the grip ... OH boy the grip. Square 255/35/19, that's the way stinger should come out from factory
Square 255 is good!
 
I was about to say, and then you posted pics. :D Nice! I think about going squared, but don't want 245 in the back: so your example has me wondering about 255 in front: whereas up to this point I've been leery of thinking about that, due to a number of posts describing clearance issues, or such tight clearance that I would not want to deal with that. How much are your 255s in front clearing the suspension and fenders by? I mean, I can see that straight ahead, no problem with the fenders, but when turning, especially at speed?
Yeah, pics uploaded rotated, dunno why. Well first of all, the wheel itself is about 8mm from the strut - and as those two parts don't move at any condition, it is fine.
I was worried about the tire clearance, but so far so good. I've had several spirited drives (like really fast on backroad) and no wierd noises from the suspension/tire and no signs of contact on inner part of the tire.
This week I'll go for a track also and if there won't be any issue, then I doubt that there can be any possible issue with 255 all around.
 
Yeah, pics uploaded rotated, dunno why.
It's the uploader: an update messed it up, is my guess. Anyway, resize them, and any pics that you flipped at your end will upload here right side up.
Well first of all, the wheel itself is about 8mm from the strut - and as those two parts don't move at any condition, it is fine.
I was worried about the tire clearance, but so far so good. I've had several spirited drives (like really fast on backroad) and no wierd noises from the suspension/tire and no signs of contact on inner part of the tire.
This week I'll go for a track also and if there won't be any issue, then I doubt that there can be any possible issue with 255 all around.
Sounds good! This is very useful going forward: I can now not discourage anyone from running stock wheels and the rear OEM tires on the front wheels (as far as clearance goes; I'm still not sold entirely on having "fat" tires on rims that narrow, but your experience so far is encouraging). Here's what the calculator shows, there are not any issues going by it:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'll try to take picture of the wheel/tire/strut with car on the ground. Yeah well I spent a few hours reading through the threads, calculating on the wheel calculator and costed me 2 set of wheels (as others have mentioned, ET doesn't mean caliper clearence will be fine ). Grabbed my balls and made the right choice.

I do not recommend fat tires on 8J either. I had opposite experience, 225/40/19 on 8.5J and the stretch was so bad. The ride was noisier, grip a bit worse when you really pushed the car (because of the stretch, the tire tend to have more oval shape and thus contact with the surface wasnt 100%). Only consequence that I can imagine with fat tires is more flex in the sidewall and thus a bit more floaty front feeling when pushing the car.

I'd personally skip OEM rears with hubs because of the hubs. That's a piece that can have an unpleasent consequences. Personally I'd pick non-OEM wheels that might be more sexier, lighter and overall better.
 
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I'll try to take picture of the wheel/tire/strut with car on the ground. Yeah well I spent a few hours reading through the threads, calculating on the wheel calculator and costed me 2 set of wheels (as others have mentioned, ET doesn't mean caliper clearence will be fine ). Grabbed my balls and made the right choice.

I do not recommend fat tires on 8J either. I had opposite experience, 225/40/19 on 8.5J and the stretch was so bad. The ride was noisier, grip a bit worse when you really pushed the car (because of the stretch, the tire tend to have more oval shape and thus contact with the surface wasnt 100%). Only consequence that I can imagine with fat tires is more flex in the sidewall and thus a bit more floaty front feeling when pushing the car.

I'd personally skip OEM rears with hubs because of the hubs. That's a piece that can have an unpleasent consequences. Personally I'd pick non-OEM wheels that might be more sexier, lighter and overall better.
Low stiff sidewalls are best for pushing the car hard, you typically want the widest possible wheels and skinniest tires that fit them (within the NORMAL width ranges for that wheel size).

Fat big sidewalls are best for wet conditions, where the flex helps hook up better during cornering and maneuvering in those conditions.

To an extent, wider is better, but when you are really pushing a car 10/10ths, those fat/big sidewalls cause more sidewall collapse during hard cornering and it lowers your cornering limit compared to a stiffer shorter sidewall.

I set up my Stinger the way I did due to our seasons and having a much faster much better handling car as my primary performance conveyance. The main limiting factor with the stinger is the ridiculously skinny front tire clearance. I say ridiculously, but in reality it's not, just my perspective of my other car fitting 295 with no problem is skewing it. Setting up with a 255 or even 245 setup should be pretty balanced. If you want to put down more power on the straights, wider rear may help if your car is RWD, but handling is going to suffer more and more the wider you make those rear tires. The other issue is that for these types of cars, their weight, 225 is just insufficient for grip. As an example, my much lighter and smaller Elantra GT N-line came with 225s. There it was pretty well matched to the car. For these bigger saloons, 225 is not.

I would submit that 225 with lower sidewalls is not your problem, it's simply that it's an insufficient width in the first place.
 
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I would submit that 225 with lower sidewalls is not your problem, it's simply that it's an insufficient width in the first place.
Probably. But then, I am a grandpa and drive like one. I can make my tires sing on a sustained curve and approach the understeer point (where the steering wheel snaps to the inside and the car does not respond: I used to call these "jabs of oversteer", but I was mislabeling what I was experiencing), but that is a rare event for me. Perhaps, going by what you said here, if I went 255 in front and rear, I would be able to surprise myself with how aggressively the handling would respond to me pushing harder?
 
2019 GT2
19 x 8.5 + 35 front
19 x 9.5 + 35 rear

Nokian WR G4
255/35/19 tires all around

No issues - can feel the difference on the road going from 19 x 8 / 8.5 to wider wheels (same tires).




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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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