Well, I have waited to chime in on this forum again for a while to see how things turned out for others and to wait for more information to present itself. In the meantime and as expected, the consistently refuted "causes" still rear their ugly heads. "Warped rotors," "inferior Kia parts," etc., have all again and again been suggested. Many now even implicitly trust Kia techs because "they said so." Well, I guess that makes it a fact. Keep in mind that this same tech is the one joy-riding your car after a service, the one who forgets the crush washer on the oil drain plug, and the one that still thinks it is appropriate to turn/machine the rotors on a $50k car. This is not a Rio or a
Sportage. This is a 12-second quarter mile, 4000+lb car, that NEEDS serious brakes. For those who don't know, you don't "turn" serious brakes. This is sweeping dust under the rug so to speak and does not properly or adequately address the problem. You have "traded the devil for a witch" by giving up braking force for smoothness if you turn the rotors. Now don't say you weren't told.
As stated before, this does not appear to be a caliper problem or a rotor problem. Most evidence points to a pad problem. I have been too busy enjoying my GT (with great brakes I might add) to actually keep up with the forum or this thread, but I am glad I have taken another look. I assure you that KIA now knows that there is a problem with the brake pads. The fine folks over at "Car and Driver" magazine pointed it out to them and put the true culprit on display for the entire world to see in their last Lightning Lap (12) testing. Here in an excerpt:
"But when we stomped the brake pedal, very little happened. Well, that's not exactly true. A big something happened. Without sufficient stopping power, the Stinger sailed into the grass outside Horse Shoe at 58mph. We got the hint: This wasn't the setup for track work. So we stopped lapping and started calling and emailing Kia. On the final day, its PR team delivered a Stinger GT fitted with European-spec pads, which, according to the company, you'll be able to get at dealerships for about $700. They worked, hauling the Stinger down from 133.8mph on the front straight." --Car and Driver
Please note that new car was mentioned as having new Euro-spec pads, not new rotors. $700 sounds about right for dealer pad replacements. Rotors and pads will be significantly more from the dealer. For those who have access to US/Euro/Asian-Pacific part numbers, it would be good to get a comprehensive list of all part numbers for the rotors and pads worldwide. If there is only one worldwide part number for rotors but multiple ones for pads, I would consider this issue closer to "solved."
Keep in mind, you don't have to "track" a car to put significant amounts of heat into crappy pads. A track will find a crappy pad very quickly, but several "street" scenarios can also reveal these differences over time. Two footed driving or an aggressive round trip through the full "Dragon" can also shine a poor light these pads. Rotor design, size, and material is FAR easier to determine than pad material. One pad will not please everyone simply because driving style and environment will differ wildly between extremes. The very fact that there is a European spec pad should tell you that this is true. It appears that these (US) pads simply do not handle heat build-up past a certain point. Once they reach this point, they are transferring pad material to the rotors unevenly. What happens from there would be harder to identify with specificity, but abnormal vibrations seems to be the common symptom.
If anyone is having their rotors replaced under warranty, I would highly suggest having the Euro-spec pads included as part of a comprehensive solution. Short of this or some change in your driving habits, the problem will likely return. If you are outside of the warranty period and warranty work is not an option for you, you will be better served in the long run to purchase new rotors and pads from the aftermarket once they become available. Do not "turn" the rotors on a lathe if you anticipate using your car in 7/10ths or higher driving. They will not work as good as new centerless ground rotors.