Spark Plug change tips

[ryan1stinger]

Nice. Used a ratchet. I had no issues with them. Some struggled with getting them tightened. I didn’t need to replace the OEM bolts. Don’t switch locations for bolts.

I’ve now installed plugs twice without having to remove the manifold. Personally, I wouldn’t do it any other way.

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

If you're thinking about using an impact for the coil bolts, this is not the job for you.

 

[Oglar100]

I tried doing it this way, and I think maybe my hands are just to fat? I ended just taking the intake manifold plenum off like in the Tork video... I ended up just not able to get the cylinder 4 (I think its 4) plug/coil in where I felt comfortable torqueing it with it still on.

Also the only thing you would use an impact for would be if your taking the plenum off/on, other that that just use a ratchet. I suggest using a magnetic sparkplug socket and not the ones with the rubber insert.

 

[Aarvix]

If you're thinking about using an impact for the coil bolts, this is not the job for you.

Coil bolts are rated in in-lb, not ugga duggas

 

[dtrail7a]

If you're thinking about using an impact for the coil bolts, this is not the job for you.

An impact to break them loose. I haven't done this yet correct. However, I wasn't born yesterday. I suppose I should have looked at the factory torque specs before asking. Thanks for the info.

 

[EClapp3]

I'm still wondering why the guy on the first page said don't use anti-seize

 

[General_Vodka]

I'm still wondering why the guy on the first page said don't use anti-seize

The kia shop manual doesn't say to use any, unless I missed something.

 

[EClapp3]

The kia shop manual doesn't say to use any, unless I missed something.

I'm pretty sure the ford triton manual doesn't say 8 out of 10 spark plugs will snap upon removal either. Ill always put a dab of antisieze on the threads and dielectric grease on my plugs. Always have and always will.

 

[neevo]

I did my spark plugs on the weekend. Was a bit worried about doing it but in the end it worked perfectly. I bought the Densos recommended by Terry and gapped them to 0.022” using my DIY gapping tool:



Then with an assortment of extensions and swivels I set about extracting the coils and the plugs:



What did I learn?

1. It’s bloody tight in there on the drivers side (I’m in Australia) but you can easily remove all the coils and plugs without removing anything. I removed all the coil bolts and found the easiest way to remove the centre coil was to pull it up, rotate the plug socket to the front and gentle work it up and out close to the intake.
2. I always reverse threaded each plug and coil bolt to make sure I didn’t cross thread anything
3. I did everything up by hand and only used the ratchet to torque at the end
4. I went 1/4 to 1/2 a turn on each plug after the crush washer engaged as recommended on the Densos packaging
5. I only needed the magnetic spark plug socket with swivel attached and 1 extra swivel on this to do all the spark plugs (plus extensions)
6. I took 45 mins for the drivers side and 8 mins for the passenger. Plus a 10 coffee break in between. 65 mins all up.
7. The hardest part I found was the coil bolts. My swivel was rotated so much getting even torque on the bolts without rounding them was tough. An offset spanned would likely be easier.

Impressions with the gapped plugs only are it’s a little harder to start. Never a problem but it stumbles slightly as it first fires up. After that runnings is noticeably smoother. I have not had any negative experiences with the gapped plugs on a stock motor. Will add a JB4 soon.

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

An impact to break them loose. I haven't done this yet correct. However, I wasn't born yesterday. I suppose I should have looked at the factory torque specs before asking. Thanks for the info.

Or lift your hood...

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

I'm pretty sure the ford triton manual doesn't say 8 out of 10 spark plugs will snap upon removal either. Ill always put a dab of antisieze on the threads and dielectric grease on my plugs. Always have and always will.

These plugs don't have a shroud so no worries....

 

[SKStinger]

These plugs don't have a shroud so no worries....

Yeah it’s a different style plug and they’re minimally torqued so anti seize would be overkill.

And from what I’ve read, if you’re putting Densos in with a 0.022 gap you’re likely replacing them in 20,000 miles or less anyway so they won’t be seized.

 

[Gilley]

I checked the Denso website to see if anti ssize was needed. Denso says the plugs are coated so they do not need compound and that compound can alter the torque value.

 

[SilverNitr8]

If any of you guys do your plugs soon, do you mind taking a video on how the coil pack separate and put back together? I've see pictures of it already separated, but I've been unsuccessful finding any videos that show how the coil pack separates to make it easier to put back in under the manifold. TIA

 

[amehring1982]

If any of you guys do your plugs soon, do you mind taking a video on how the coil pack separate and put back together? I've see pictures of it already separated, but I've been unsuccessful finding any videos that show how the coil pack separates to make it easier to put back in under the manifold. TIA

I'm going to be doing my spark plugs this week with the nice weather (work permitting). I will takes pics/video in the process.

 

[EClapp3]

These plugs don't have a shroud so no worries....

I know these wont snap, I'm just saying that just cause a manufacture doesn't say something specific doesn't mean it isn't helpful.

 

[dtrail7a]

I can't believe I for 1 second I thought about paying someone to do this. The only hiccup I had was I was using a 10" magnetic socket extension combo instead of the 6". I just switched to a normal extension and regular plug socket and it worked just fine for the plug under the intake. The coil also came out in 1 piece no problem, and went back in no problem. Used stock bolts not keeping track of where they came from. Maybe I'm just lucky but any of you that haven't attempted it yet you have nothing to worry about with the info in this thread.

 

[Josiebro]

When I replaced mine a couple weeks ago, I didn't remove the intake manifold. Only by accident did I realize that the coil packs come apart at the middle! I thought I broke one but it went back together fine and everything works great now. I just thought this might be useful for anyone thinking they might break a pack on the passenger side when removing.

 

[amehring1982]

I just finished mine...took about 1.5 hours. Drivers side is simple. Remove 10mm on each coil pack, pull the full coil pack, change out spark plug and then reverse process.
Passenger side is challenging but doable. On this side I did the one closest to the front first. I left the coil pack off completely after pulling the gray tab and removing the clip. This left enough room to get to the middle coil pack and plug. 10mm coil pack bolt was easy enough with a swivel but I couldn’t get the coil pack out of the way. I moved on to passenger rear plug. The issue I had here was the 10mm coil pack bolt. I broke it loose with an offset open-ended wrench and then did the rest with my (unfortunately) large hands. Once that was out I then removed the middle passenger coil pack out the back, replaced spark plug using two swivel method, and put that coil pack back on. The last coil pack I put back on was the passenger rear. I again had issues here tightening the 10mm. Finally I found a really small ratchet with two skinny extensions. This gave me enough space to get a ratchet at it from the top. Much easier than on the way out.

 

[neevo]

I found rotating the middle coil pack so the clip pointed forwards gave me enough room to pull the coil pack out the front.

I also found (like you) that the 10mm coil pack bolts were generally the hardest bits to remove/tighten.