Spark Plug change tips

I’m about to swap my plugs and the one under the intake it the in’s Ind that I’m worried about at this point. When the pieces of the coil pack separated how would you have removed the port in the hole without removing the manifold. Hoping I don’t need to do that.
Just take your time pulling it out slowly. Those coil packs are pretty flexible. Just do it slow, pull the pack towards the pax seat, not towards the front of the car. You gotta twist the pack and rotate it to get it out.
 
I’m about to swap my plugs and the one under the intake it the in’s Ind that I’m worried about at this point. When the pieces of the coil pack separated how would you have removed the port in the hole without removing the manifold. Hoping I don’t need to do that.
I realized once I got that manifold off that I could just reach in there with pliers to grab on and carefully pull out the rest of the coil pack that stayed inside. It came out really easy so I ended up taking the manifold off for nothing lol.
 
I’m about to swap my plugs and the one under the intake it the in’s Ind that I’m worried about at this point. When the pieces of the coil pack separated how would you have removed the port in the hole without removing the manifold. Hoping I don’t need to do that.
You can get at it with some pliers. This is the video I used for reference.

 
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I read the entire thread a few times and watched the youtube videos. I decided today was the day. Changed out in just under 1.5 hours. The hardest part for me was loosening the center passenger side plug. I got the center passenger coil pack out in about 4 minutes - I was checking. I tried to rotate it 180degrees to remove through the front (as one of the comments mentioned) it but I could not figure it out, so I took it out through the back. When I replaced it I decide to insert 180degrees around through the front just to see if it was possible. Once I had it in the hole I was able to turn it around with no problem. That actually worked quite well. I completed the driver side plugs in 23min.

If you are even just a little mechanically inclined this was not a hard job. You just need the right tools and a girlfriend/wife with small hands to get into the tight areas to get the screws out. once I broke the screws free she was able to take them out and when replacing them she started them to finger tight and then I torqued them down. None of mine cross threaded when I put them back together. I have the 22 AWD GT2. I attached a picture of my coil packs. I laid them out in the direct they were removed. Also included is a picture of the OEM spark plugs at just 5450 miles. As best I could I gapped my HKS plugs to .023. I’m guessing the OEM are somewhere in the neighborhood of .03ish. I used the BMS gapping tool, magnetic spark plug socket and the measuring sticks that came with it. The BMS stick only reads to .024 but there was lots of play between the strap and the igniter of the OEM plugs. I would guess then HKS we’re about .025-.026 out of the box. I also attached a picture of the torque specs I used when installing the new plugs.

THANK YOU!!!!!, to everyone for their comments, posts and videos which help the rest of us. Best of luck to the rest who are considering saving a few hundred bucks at the dealer. Now on to the VT snorkels, F&R sway bars and Mishi FMIC, and in a couple weeks the aFe intake when it arrives in a couple weeks. I’m trying to view this as a big Lego set. And not get nervous about breaking anything.
 

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I read the entire thread a few times and watched the youtube videos. I decided today was the day. Changed out in just under 1.5 hours. The hardest part for me was loosening the center passenger side plug. I got the center passenger coil pack out in about 4 minutes - I was checking. I tried to rotate it 180degrees to remove through the front (as one of the comments mentioned) it but I could not figure it out, so I took it out through the back. When I replaced it I decide to insert 180degrees around through the front just to see if it was possible. Once I had it in the hole I was able to turn it around with no problem. That actually worked quite well. I completed the driver side plugs in 23min.

If you are even just a little mechanically inclined this was not a hard job. You just need the right tools and a girlfriend/wife with small hands to get into the tight areas to get the screws out. once I broke the screws free she was able to take them out and when replacing them she started them to finger tight and then I torqued them down. None of mine cross threaded when I put them back together. I have the 22 AWD GT2. I attached a picture of my coil packs. I laid them out in the direct they were removed. Also included is a picture of the OEM spark plugs at just 5450 miles. As best I could I gapped my HKS plugs to .023. I’m guessing the OEM are somewhere in the neighborhood of .03ish. I used the BMS gapping tool, magnetic spark plug socket and the measuring sticks that came with it. The BMS stick only reads to .024 but there was lots of play between the strap and the igniter of the OEM plugs. I would guess then HKS we’re about .025-.026 out of the box.

THANK YOU!!!!!, to everyone for their comments, posts and videos which help the rest of us. Best of luck to the rest who are considering saving a few hundred bucks at the dealer. Now on to the VT snorkels, F&R sway bars and Mishi FMIC, and in a couple weeks the aFe intake when it arrives in a couple weeks. I’m trying to view this as a big Lego set. And not get nervous about breaking anything.
Not as bad as you thought right? Way to pop that cherry
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I would guess then HKS we’re about .025-.026 out of the box

I find this pretty interesting considering everyone says to gap them to .022 but then they say that they're correct right from the box. Goes to show you that you should check regardless.
 
I used a swivel and a wobble extension with magnetic socket on #5 and it works fine. Not a bad job at all. I was all worried I would have to pull the intake. The coil popped apart and back together no problem. I just put a little grease on it and slid right in
 

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just the plugs and the correct gap. Coil packs should be fine.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
N
Are you also recommending to change out the coil packs on an brand new GT2, or just the plugs and re-gap ok?
No need for coil packs if it’s new. Just the plugs for re-gap.
 
I was able to install the three spark plugs on the drivers side but could not reach any on the passenger side. It's just too narrow so I gave up. Anyone near Richmond VA, I'll pay you to install it for me.
 
I was able to install the three spark plugs on the drivers side but could not reach any on the passenger side. It's just too narrow so I gave up. Anyone near Richmond VA, I'll pay you to install it for me.
When you say too narrow, do you mean to reach the coil pack bolts, remove the coil pack, reach the plugs themselves...? The only thing that should make this a showstopper is only having straight wrenches/extensions.

A swivel joint, a couple extensions, and a swivel spark plug socket (link below, $12) should be all you need. For the coil pack bolts I think I just did socket/swivel/short extension, and for the spark plugs I did swivel socket (which has its own short extension)/swivel/extension.

 
Fishing out the coils is the worst part once you have the right tools.
 
Bump first and foremost for an awesome thread...

Can i regap my std plugs to .7mm for 20psi ?

Or do i have to pay $210 plus postage from the K8 store for some plugs sent to Australia when i already have iridium plugs in my 400km old car...
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
What is the tightening torque spec for the plugs (3.3TT)?
Gap 0.022-0.028" (0.56mm to 0.71mm) seems like a very small gap compared to stock --- see service manual attached --- yes I understand this is performance orientated spec.
N/A 4.0 6cyl Barra here in oz are 1.3mm from factory, if std turbo then the plugs are 1.1mm @6psi

If you want 350rwkw @15-17psi then you need .7mm plugs

1000hp @25-30 psi combos have .5mm plugs ;)
 
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I want 300rwkw at 20psi so i am guessing .7mm will suffice depending on heat range for the octane i am using ?
 
2019 GT1 RWD, just did my plugs at 42k. Took an hour and a half, and u joint sockets are the key (swivels did not flex enough within tight spaces. Replaced with OEM NGKs and gapped to factory spec. Here's my old plugs. Cylinder 1 is top left, 6 is bottom right.
 

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