3.3TT Open Source Intake Mod

[robz32]

Okay enough with the puns.


You need to cool it down

 

[Beege]

Whoa whoa whoa...

I can't take this heat

 

[Beege]

It's making me feel sluggish

 

[Ucinn]

30,000 comedians out of work and you are all applying here?

 

[Beege]

We're just looking for the coolest fans

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Ha. I feel ya man. Like I said it's great for sound and I'm sure it'll give ya some placebo effect, if nothing else.

I'm sure you're well aware of the drawbacks of removing a part that is designed to keep warm air away from the intake and replacing it with something that will pump 200+ degree air directly into the intake.

Will it sound cool? Hell yeah!
Will it look cool? Youuu betcha!
Will it make your 0-60/quarter mile faster? No!

And a side note for people relying on dyno results from parts manufactures. Stahpit! Their job is to sell you a product by showing you how great it is. Instead of relying on their results go with the results of independent 3rd party testers. Those are the results that matter. And in the one review I've found of a dyno tested HAI on a Stinger the car only picked up 4hp (and that car was tested with the hood open and fans blowing directly into the engine bay--imagine the results of a car sitting in stop and go traffic while it's 95 degrees outside...yikes!)

With all due respect Kamauxx, I'm happy to have intelligent friendly debates, but I dont understand why you feel the need to be such a "Debbie downer" against fellow Stinger Owners. GTB started this awesome thread to help other "Hivers", and a few of us are very proud of this DIY upgrade! We've been happily sharing our experiences and documenting the improvements we are witnessing with these intakes. You then jump into this thread and unfortunately have had nothing but negative &/or speculative comments about all our "DIY" installed intakes.

Nothing personal, and everyone is entitled to their opinion, but please understand that your comments are discouraging and mildly disrespectful to readers with this upgrade. Insinuating to everyone that our hard work with this upgrade was for nothing("Placebo effect"), and a "drop-in filter" will provide better performance is both deceiving and unfounded.
Couple examples of your statements that some may find unfitting for this thread/forum:

Seriously drop-in is the best way to go for performance.

Where are you getting this information? This just sounds like an opinion unless you have proof to the contrary. There are many dyno tests showing increases of about (5HP-15HP+) from cone filter intakes, and not one that I'm aware of showing any increase with a drop-in filter.

Will it make your 0-60/quarter mile faster? No!

How do you know this for a fact? Why wouldnt an increase of 5-15HP+ have the potential to be a little faster? I'm not saying 15HP will drop a second or anything drastic, but saying a definitive "No!" is negatively misleading to all readers of this thread...

I'm sorry for the long response and that my "teachers hat" came out again, but just feel that as Stinger owners we are all on the same team and should be working together in order to learn new things! Unfortunately just throwing out opinions without backing them up with documented facts hurts everyone involved in our forum. Everyone should keep this in mind going forward and just hope my preaching isnt taken the wrong way. Sorry again all and Go Team Stinger!

 

[Beege]

(insert air intake pun here to lighten the mood)

Oh, I give up. This is exhausting...

 

[CoconutRob]

With all due respect Kamauxx, I'm happy to have intelligent friendly debates, but I dont understand why you feel the need to be such a "Debbie downer" against fellow Stinger Owners. GTB started this awesome thread to help other "Hivers", and a few of us are very proud of this DIY upgrade! We've been happily sharing our experiences and documenting the improvements we are witnessing with these intakes. You then jump into this thread and unfortunately have had nothing but negative &/or speculative comments about all our "DIY" installed intakes.

Nothing personal, and everyone is entitled to their opinion, but please understand that your comments are discouraging and mildly disrespectful to readers with this upgrade. Insinuating to everyone that our hard work with this upgrade was for nothing("Placebo effect"), and a "drop-in filter" will provide better performance is both deceiving and unfounded.
Couple examples of your statements that some may find unfitting for this thread/forum:
Where are you getting this information? This just sounds like an opinion unless you have proof to the contrary. There are many dyno tests showing increases of about (5HP-15HP+) from cone filter intakes, and not one that I'm aware of showing any increase with a drop-in filter.
How do you know this for a fact? Why wouldnt an increase of 5-15HP+ have the potential to be a little faster? I'm not saying 15HP will drop a second or anything drastic, but saying a definitive "No!" is negatively misleading to all readers of this thread...

I'm sorry for the long response and that my "teachers hat" came out again, but just feel that as Stinger owners we are all on the same team and should be working together in order to learn new things! Unfortunately just throwing out opinions without backing them up with documented facts hurts everyone involved in our forum. Everyone should keep this in mind going forward and just hope my preaching isnt taken the wrong way. Sorry again all and Go Team Stinger!

A hp increase of 2 to 4 proven on dyno video on this forum and that was with a K&N (better isolated cold air)I believe . Not knocking anything here , just stating what has been proven.
Originally I replied as sort of a joke to wanting isolate filter from the engine as the stock box does very well. What we need is a dyno with just a K&N drop in. I bet 2hp gain. JMO
As I said the DIY looks very good great job!

 

[Kamauxx]

With all due respect Kamauxx, I'm happy to have intelligent friendly debates, but I dont understand why you feel the need to be such a "Debbie downer" against fellow Stinger Owners.

Being a Debbie downer wasnt my intent. My intentions were to share an opposing point of view. I admitted the intakes looked and sounded cool, but wanted to make it clear that they are an inhibitor to increasing the vehicles performance. I didn't mean it as a personal slight to anyone.

GTB started this awesome thread to help other "Hivers", and a few of us are very proud of this DIY upgrade! We've been happily sharing our experiences

I understand that, and I commend him for doing so. But here's what he's recently said about the intakes:

Just purchased the 2 replacements. I have been doing a lot of research and it seems like the best option. I do enjoy my open source intake mod, But its starting to get way to hot out.

So, even the creator of this mod has come to realize the drawbacks of adding heat to the intake and swapped it out for the drop-ins.

Where are you getting this information? This just sounds like an opinion unless you have proof to the contrary. There are many dyno tests showing increases of about (5HP-15HP+) from cone filter intakes, and not one that I'm aware of showing any increase with a drop-in filter.

You are correct. I haven't seen any independently verified dyno results from the drop-in filter and shouldn't have made that post as a "fact". The opinion comes from an understanding that the drop-ins are more free flowing than the stock paper filters AND they remain isolated from the heat of the engine bay.

How do you know this for a fact? Why wouldnt an increase of 5-15HP+ have the potential to be a little faster? I'm not saying 15HP will drop a second or anything drastic

Simply put, I don't trust the dyno results that manufactures provide for their own parts. The dyno sheets/results they provide to consumers are nothing more than a tool used to sell more product.

On the contrary, however, as I've said a few times now I've seen a 3rd party tester dyno a similar design in less than realistic conditions and net a mere 4hp.

So, with a 4hp increase and the heat soaking of making track runs I'm able to deduce that the car would see an overall loss of performance down the strip.

Again though, the best way for this to be tested is for a stock v modified intake Stinger to make a few runs against each other.


Now that that's out of the way, I must say I'm disappointed that you didn't PM me regarding the house I have for sale. I'm a little hurt by that.

Seriously though, I don't mean anyone any harm or ill will. None of the posts I've made were meant to put anyone down--onlu to share a differing opinion. Please don't take offense to my posts.

 

[Kamauxx]

(insert air intake pun here to lighten the mood)

Oh, I give up. This is exhausting...

Still got it!

 

[Kamauxx]

A hp increase of 2 to 4 proven on dyno video on this forum and that was with a K&N (better isolated cold air)I believe . Not knocking anything here , just stating what has been proven.
Originally I replied as sort of a joke to wanting isolate filter from the engine as the stock box does very well. What we need is a dyno with just a K&N drop in. I bet 2hp gain. JMO
As I said the DIY looks very good great job!

I'm aware of that video, but I didn't think it was a K&N. I thought it was just similar to a K&N but made by a random shop in what I believe was Australia. I've tried to find it to share here but have had no luck.

As far as the drop-ins, I agree. It's doubtful that they added any more than a few horsepower.

*Edit* Finally found it. It's a shop in Australia called HPF.

Their baseline run was 218 rwkw.
With their custom intake they made 220 rwkw.
That's a gain of 3 whp.

Again, this was in the most supreme circumstances imaginable (hood open/fans blowing at the car). Real world would see even less improvement.

 

[jdouga]

Engineering Explained: Cold Air Intakes Vs Short Ram Intakes


I'll just leave this here

 

[Kamauxx]

Engineering Explained: Cold Air Intakes Vs Short Ram Intakes


I'll just leave this here

Thanks for that.

Here's the summary.

• Stock: Best performance at low rpm, which is where your engine will spend most of its time if it’s a daily driver. If you don’t want increased induction noise, this option will offer the quietest ride. This is recommended for those who use their car as a daily driver and want the greatest low-end power which is ideal for city driving.
• SRI: Adds some benefit over the stock system, but only at high rpm. This also increases induction noise. Power seems to taper as the engine bay heats up. This is a budget-friendly option for cars which frequently visit the track, and also reduces the risk of pulling in water via the filter versus a CAI.

And of course, what we all can agree on:

• CAI: For overall performance, this is the best option when the engine is revved to higher rpm. Induction noise is increased. A downside is that the location of the filter could potentially hydrolock the engine by pulling in water, as it is often located close to the ground. This is recommended for track or drag vehicles which keep the engine revs at higher rpm.

 

[jdouga]

Thanks for that.

Here's the summary.

• Stock: Best performance at low rpm, which is where your engine will spend most of its time if it’s a daily driver. If you don’t want increased induction noise, this option will offer the quietest ride. This is recommended for those who use their car as a daily driver and want the greatest low-end power which is ideal for city driving.
• SRI: Adds some benefit over the stock system, but only at high rpm. This also increases induction noise. Power seems to taper as the engine bay heats up. This is a budget-friendly option for cars which frequently visit the track, and also reduces the risk of pulling in water via the filter versus a CAI.

And of course, what we all can agree on:

• CAI: For overall performance, this is the best option when the engine is revved to higher rpm. Induction noise is increased. A downside is that the location of the filter could potentially hydrolock the engine by pulling in water, as it is often located close to the ground. This is recommended for track or drag vehicles which keep the engine revs at higher rpm.

Face palm* i meant to post the video link, but oh well we can all read lol

 

[WildBill]

Thank you Kamauxx for doing the legwork and posting links to hard data.

The truth is that with two air boxes the car can already flow a lot of air from the factory.
I doubt that drop ins will make that much of a difference at all because the intake does not seem to be that big of a choke point in any of the testing that we've seen. (at least as a first mod)
Correct me if I'm wrong but all of Tork's numbers are with the intake and muffler deletes.

And sorry StungBlueGT2, Im going to have to agree with Kamauxx on this one, that a short ram with out a heat dam from the engine will sound better, maybe get you 5 hp out on the open road, but likely leave you with decreased performance in summer traffic or at the strip.

It's all in what you want and where you typically drive.

I may still look to do a DIY intake but would likely want to build my own heat dam. My first idea would be to grab some Instapack packaging bags from work to form a positive replica of the space we have to work with, then shave that down to dimensions that would work for the outside of the box, then create some kind of mold. Seems like a lot of work, but you never know, I'm stubborn and when I get an idea in my head...

Thank you StungBlueGT2 for doing this, you are still an inspiration.

 

[StingerT303]

Leaving the decades-old debate of intakes out of this DIY section...

I got the parts today and installed. I can't figure out how you guys have bracketed the filter in place. The intake tubes from the filter to the turbo are far too flimsy to hold the filter without it bobbling around everywhere. @Beege had a good solution but that is the only bracket I've seen.

Anyone else who has done this, can you show your bracket? Thank you!!

 

[NYLAWBIZ]

Still like the whoosh sound and look of a CAI

 

[StingerT303]

Okay. Install complete including brackets.

First impressions. Sound is obviously awesome. Driving around in Eco mode the noise is barely there Jump on it and the spool is great. The noise when dumping the throttle is great. Cant help but smile. It took a while of tinkering to get the brackets to fit how I wanted, leaving the filter not rubbing or touching on anything. They still bounce around a tad because of the flexible intake piping but are very secure.

Performance: hard to say. Certainly no worse, and maybe a tad better but no way to know. I have always been surprised how hard boost hits in this car and it continues to do so.

I spent probably $100 on parts. For someone who doesn't want to mess around with creating their own brackets, I think the Tork Motorsports option for <$200 is a very fair price, and certainly looks a bit more professional.

.

 

[Beege]

Looks good! Nice job!

Kills your gas mileage though. Can't get enough of the sounds!

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Please bear with me as this may be a long response, but I’ll try to clarify as many comments as possible.

Simply put, I don't trust the dyno results that manufactures provide for their own parts. The dyno sheets/results they provide to consumers are nothing more than a tool used to sell more product....On the contrary, however, as I've said a few times now I've seen a 3rd party tester dyno a similar design in less than realistic conditions and net a mere 4hp.

A hp increase of 2 to 4 proven on dyno video on this forum and that was with a K&N (better isolated cold air)I believe . Not knocking anything here , just stating what has been proven.
Originally I replied as sort of a joke to wanting isolate filter from the engine as the stock box does very well. What we need is a dyno with just a K&N drop in. I bet 2hp gain. JMO
As I said the DIY looks very good great job!

I understand your points, however proven dyno tests for this setup range from that one 4hp, to a more common 10-20hp.

I initially saw a video months ago that was +19hp, but still looking for it to post. However a reputable tuner Tork Motorsports dyno’ed +16hp from cone intakes and then decided to start selling their own version online. Even though they do sell performance parts, the dyno testing I’m quoting was done using DIY items or other vendors products that they didn’t personally sell. So this example was another “3rd party” unbiased test like the dyno that only got 4hp. I accept the 4hp for same reasons that I accept the 16hp. I just believe it’s closer to 15hp because I can actually feel the extra power from 2-6k.Also, see post #62 with full video and detailed results of HP improvements after each stage of upgrades.

My intentions were to share an opposing point of view. I admitted the intakes looked and sounded cool, but wanted to make it clear that they are an inhibitor to increasing the vehicles performance.

Thats fair if you backed up your comments with facts or personal experience, instead of negative assumptions. I’m open to opposing perspectives, but just assuming these semi-CAIs will inhibit performance in Stingers without proof is misleading.

So, even the creator of this mod has come to realize the drawbacks of adding heat to the intake and swapped it out for the drop-ins.

Im surprised by this, but not denying heat effects HP. I’m just saying that with a little heat isolation($19)
and filter placement away from engine next to the OEM air inlet like I mentioned in post #54, heat has little if no effect unless sitting in bumper to bumper traffic when performance isn’t needed.

So, with a 4hp increase and the heat soaking of making track runs I'm able to deduce that the car would see an overall loss of performance down the strip.

Again as soon as you move hot air is drawn away from the engine so only “cool” air is being sucked from air inlet & through the grill. I think a higher volume of cooler airflow while accelerating and more power(4-16hp)from 2-6k would likely equal better road and track performance.

Again though, the best way for this to be tested is for a stock v modified intake Stinger to make a few runs against each other.

At last, another thing we can agree on and bring it! Always down for some friendly competition.

Engineering Explained: Cold Air Intakes Vs Short Ram Intakes
I'll just leave this here

I agree with this, but just think the K&N Typhoon & my heat insulated DIY version are very similar to a CAI and apply the same concepts. They both provide more & quicker airflow with higher surface area cone filters(better throttle response & power), and both insulate heat from engine(cooler air=more power). I’m not saying either are exactly as good as an in-fender CAI, or that mine is perfect(will keep looking for ways to better isolate heat), but will say they make a noticeable difference in performance, & bada$$ sounds.

The truth is that with two air boxes the car can already flow a lot of air from the factory...the intake does not seem to be that big of a choke point in any of the testing that we've seen...
Correct me if I'm wrong but all of Tork's numbers are with the intake and muffler deletes.

Yes 2 intakes will provide better airflow but when you take off the airbox you see the bottleneck air inlet is only about 1x2”. No doubt there is significantly more restriction in stock airboxes vs highflow cone filters. Sorry but the Tork video I posted and others online show the muffler delete separate than intakes and 16hp was the difference between upgrades.

I may still look to do a DIY intake but would likely want to build my own heat dam...Thank you StungBlueGT2 for doing this, you are still an inspiration.

I made my own quick version pictured above, but it works well and can feel a huge heat difference from each side of the insulation. It doesn’t look great but was easy to install and well worth the $19. And thanks I try and always looking for ways to make improvements.

Okay. Install complete including brackets.

First impressions. Sound is obviously awesome. Driving around in Eco mode the noise is barely there Jump on it and the spool is great. The noise when dumping the throttle is great. Cant help but smile. It took a while of tinkering to get the brackets to fit how I wanted, leaving the filter not rubbing or touching on anything. They still bounce around a tad because of the flexible intake piping but are very secure.

Performance: hard to say. Certainly no worse, and maybe a tad better but no way to know. I have always been surprised how hard boost hits in this car and it continues to do so.

I spent probably $100 on parts. For someone who doesn't want to mess around with creating their own brackets, I think the Tork Motorsports option for <$200 is a very fair price, and certainly looks a bit more professional.

View attachment 7434View attachment 7432 View attachment 7433 View attachment 7435 View attachment 7436 View attachment 7437 View attachment 7438 View attachment 7439 View attachment 7440 .

Wow great job and great examples of a custom bracket! I haven’t found a perfect solution yet but that may be it, or the K&N version.

And to test performance, try a few rolling runs in 2nd & Sport at about 2-3k and then quickly get on the gas/boost. I swear it gets into boost faster and pulls even harder until redline. It’s not a drastic difference but me and my fiancé feel the improvement.

Again, sorry all for the long response but just wanted to be as clear as possible and wish everyone happy motoring!