3.3TT Open Source Intake Mod

[Scott Curry]

Okay hold on here.. this is not if the motor or air pump needs more air its if you reduce restriction on intake air. If you take a stock motor say putting out 300 to wheels, then you remove the restriction on the intake only you're going to see a torque and house power gain no matter what maybe 15-20 hp. If you compliment that with an exhaust system removing restrictions on the exhaust it will simply increase that. the horsepower from the engine is already there you're just removing the restrictions to see its full potential.

 

[Scott Curry]

You can feel that in the seat of the pants you don't even need a Dyno. But for the numbers people you're going to see an increase in there too.

 

[Scott Curry]

You're basically removing stress from the motor trying so hard to do what it needs to do sucking air blow out air

 

[runner1]

 

[runner1]

Another member here ran a 3.8 0-60 box stock with only an ecu tune. I don’t know who’s right. I know I’ve not seen proof, I know you can’t feel 20 hp so even if it did make more power I don’t know that it’s even needed. I do know that if I’m making 16 psi with stock boxes then with open elements and run again and make 16 psi boost the nothings changed. Boost is volume of air so if I’m not getting more boost then I don’t need more volume...then it’s all about temp and at no point would open elements be ideal under a sealed up front end bay of the stinger.

the gain with catback shows that the real restriction is likely muffler. Next maybe liquid cooled inter cooler?

 

[Scott Curry]

Yeah I don't buy there testing across all cars,Ive been there I've watched it myself. The stock air boxes are extremely restrictive in most cases not all though. there was a few cases where the stock intake system and the K&n system did not result in any noticable gain and therefore we did not create a intake kit for the car. the way that K&n measures their gains is they take the highest and the lowest and the mid horsepower they use the mid horsepower gain on the kit as they're advertised horsepower increase. So the car they tested their most likely tells me from my history of doing this that it was a very low restrictive air box on that particular vehicle.

 

[WildBill]

If you aren’t making more boost with other filters then I would have to assume you don’t need more air....boost is compressed air. Am I getting this wrong?

This is what I've found from datalogging.

Throttle inputs create boost targets. As the boost target increases the wastegate closes more in order to build that boost. The boost does not rise instantaneously to meet that target, it lags. All the while the vacuum force in the intake is increasing. (think sucking through a straw)

The more restrictive the intake is the longer it will take for the car to get to the target boost and make power. Once that boost level is achieved the wastegate will open up more to maintain that target boost and extra pressure goes recirculated back into the intake.

In the end you are correct in thinking that you will not end up seeing a different max boost level when adding intakes. That max level is set and maintained by the ECU. But you are missing the fact that you will achieve that boost easier and sooner which will in turn make more power at lower RPMs.

 

[turboAWD]

Why would a 90s NA Toyota have any bearing on our 3.3 twin turbo setup? Sure, even NA cars can gain a bit from an overly restrictive intake, but it depends on the exact system. For instance, if you replaced the intake system on ANY car with a garden hose as the only possible air intake, they would probably ALL have gains from putting on a K&N.

On the other hand, my Legacy GT OEM intake was rated (by various tuners, etc) good enough for ~300-350 whp, and since I didn't exceed that (~250-270 whp), I didn't change anything. Plus, it was OVERLY sensitive to non-OEM filters (lean under boost, etc).

With the Stinger, I'm putting out closer to 450+ whp, and the stock intakes are probably smaller than my LGT, even times 2, it makes sense that they could be a restriction.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

You only make more power if, ‘if’ you need more air. The dynos provided are vendor based. I want to see a car run on map 1 jb4....change the filter set up and run again 15 minutes later and make power. There have been no private dyno sessions posted here in the last 6 months that I’ve read where we see the curve climb at all. Lately a newer member actually showed a slight loss. Horsepower factory did a comparison and gained only 3hp....cat back was 10.

the stock boxes are sealed and are litterally cold air intakes, the open element setups are NOT cold air set ups and I guess I just want to see the INDEPENDENT proof that a bolt on car needs the added air and I’m not paying just to hear woosh noise.

That’s incorrect. You can make more power by increasing efficiency as well as adding more air & fuel. The convoluted stock air box system and very small 1”x2” air inlet connectors are extremely restrictive. This forces the engine to work harder which reduces the HP the engine can potentially make. Also if you allow more air in the ECU will adapt and add more fuel to keep the AFR within its preset range. More air & fuel simply makes more power. So between the extra air & fuel going in, and removing restrictions to make the engine more efficient you gain 15-25whp with almost any high flow open air intake.

Yes they are from vendors and likely are the best gains possible, but reputable vendors like BMS, Stillen, etc. won’t risk fraud by false advertising and showing fake HP gains. I’m also pretty sure BMS did exactly what you’re describing in their dyno test above. They filled up with 91 octane, did a dyno run on map2(389whp), then changed the filter setup to open air intakes and retested it on the same dyno right after(417whp). They did a few WOT runs in between to allow the ECU to adapt which is what uniformed users don’t do on private dyno sessions and likely why they don’t see all the real gains. There are also multiple independent users on IG, FB, etc. that show similar gains of 20whp by adding intakes.

Yes the stock intakes are sealed systems, but two things to consider why that doesn’t matter much. First, the warm engine air only effects IATs when stopped and sitting still for extended periods of time. As soon as you move warm air is drawn out of the engine bay and replaced with cool outside air.

Second, on turbo vehicles the air runs through an intercooler which significantly cools the air before entering the engine no matter what intakes you use.

A member on here did thorough testing comparing the sealed OEM intakes vs open intakes with heat shielding. He proved that the differences of IATs were minimal and all the extra airflow definitely outweighed the slightly higher intake temps.

Lastly, multiple people showed ~0.2 second drops on 0-60 & 1/4m times which would only happen with significant HP gains. So many dyno proven gains of about 20whp are backed up by real world performance, which makes intakes one of the best bang for the buck mods(DIY only $100) you can do on our Stingers.

 

[Shenanigans302]

So the elbows I ordered were a little longer than I wanted. Looking at the Spectre filter there are two inserts and if you remove one the filter fits over the stock tube. With that being the case is there a reason why the elbow is needed? Has anyone had an issue with the filter clamped to the stock hose?

I’ve got it setup on the passenger side. Getting ready to do the drivers side.

I plan on cutting into the stock air box to set the filter in a stable location.

edit: the passenger side works as well.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

So the elbows I ordered were a little longer than I wanted. Looking at the Spectre filter there are two inserts and if you remove one the filter fits over the stock tube. With that being the case is there a reason why the elbow is needed? Has anyone had an issue with the filter clamped to the stock hose?

I’ve got it setup on the passenger side. Getting ready to do the drivers side.

I plan on cutting into the stock air box to set the filter in a stable location.

edit: the passenger side works as well.

That’s actually very similar to what I did before anyone started using elbows.DIY intakes w/Heat shielding drop about 0.2sec off 0-60
I tried just connecting the filters to the stock tubes but ended up using 3”x2” plastic intake connectors since the rubber over rubber didn’t seem very secure. I made simple brackets to hold everything in place, but if yours stays put or you can get them to fit over the bottom of the stock intake box then more power to you.

 

[Dwayne]

View attachment 5944 View attachment 5880 View attachment 5881View attachment 5945
Just finished up this home made intake setup. Very simple. All the turbo noise your heart desired. Give it a try, switch it up if you will. Driver side is identical.
2 - 3 inch Filters (AEM Dry Flow) $50 each. You can opt for Spectre filters for $20 each.
1 - 3 inch O.D 4 inch long pipe (Spectre 9409) $12. Cut this in half.
2 - Metal brackets. $1 each. Any hardware store.
2 - Orignal bolts. Free.
Total cost $114, for me anyways.
Please laugh, this is for sound and maybe gains. Don’t pop your hood! All go no show.
Side note: The car does hit boost much harder. Running JB4 Map 1.

Here's mine. It's amazing how much the stock intake boxes silence the BOVs. Love the new sound with this DIY mod.

 

[JW Stringer]

That’s incorrect. You can make more power by increasing efficiency as well as adding more air & fuel. The convoluted stock air box system and very small 1”x2” air inlet connectors are extremely restrictive. This forces the engine to work harder which reduces the HP the engine can potentially make. Also if you allow more air in the ECU will adapt and add more fuel to keep the AFR within its preset range. More air & fuel simply makes more power. So between the extra air & fuel going in, and removing restrictions to make the engine more efficient you gain 15-25whp with almost any high flow open air intake.

Yes they are from vendors and likely are the best gains possible, but reputable vendors like BMS, Stillen, etc. won’t risk fraud by false advertising and showing fake HP gains. I’m also pretty sure BMS did exactly what you’re describing in their dyno test above. They filled up with 91 octane, did a dyno run on map2(389whp), then changed the filter setup to open air intakes and retested it on the same dyno right after(417whp). They did a few WOT runs in between to allow the ECU to adapt which is what uniformed users don’t do on private dyno sessions and likely why they don’t see all the real gains. There are also multiple independent users on IG, FB, etc. that show similar gains of 20whp by adding intakes.

Yes the stock intakes are sealed systems, but two things to consider why that doesn’t matter much. First, the warm engine air only effects IATs when stopped and sitting still for extended periods of time. As soon as you move warm air is drawn out of the engine bay and replaced with cool outside air.

Second, on turbo vehicles the air runs through an intercooler which significantly cools the air before entering the engine no matter what intakes you use.

A member on here did thorough testing comparing the sealed OEM intakes vs open intakes with heat shielding. He proved that the differences of IATs were minimal and all the extra airflow definitely outweighed the slightly higher intake temps.

Lastly, multiple people showed ~0.2 second drops on 0-60 & 1/4m times which would only happen with significant HP gains. So many dyno proven gains of about 20whp are backed up by real world performance, which makes intakes one of the best bang for the buck mods(DIY only $100) you can do on our Stingers.

So I should not be too worried about fashioning heat shields around my injen before the heat comes?
sucking in cooler air while trucking down the road does seem to make sense. Definitely does not seem an issue in current 50-60 degree temps. but much higher soon to come and stay awhile

 

[Toddasaurus]

So I should not be too worried about fashioning heat shields around my injen before the heat comes?
sucking in cooler air while trucking down the road does seem to make sense. Definitely does not seem an issue in current 50-60 degree temps. but much higher soon to come and stay awhile

I wouldn't stress it too much. The intercooler, by far, is going to have the biggest effect on IAT's. Heat shields are nice to have, but for probably over 90% of the time the differences (if any) are negligible. Even so, every little bit can add up, and some of us feel such things are worthwhile.

 

[JW Stringer]

thanks for info Toddasaraus
I been popping the hood fairly frequently to feel the tubes and filters. so today I observed... at mostly freeway driving in 65-70 degree temps there does not appear much concern for heat shielding. just did the test upon arriving at office (about 20 miles mainly freeway) and everything cool to the touch, last few miles are 30mph and a few stop lights. while I know this is not real time air intake temps, you'd think it is a fairly good gauge.
unfortunately, I live in Houston, and the weather soon to drastically change for six months, or longer.
and I believe there is not a doubt that these big a$$ open filters are adding more power, at least in this cooler weather for now. gunning it half way at about 5 mph the tires loose grip quite easily when turbos spool up, power def comes on at least somewhat stronger, i would say a fair amount but that could certainly be a placebo effect from the joy of hearing the accompanying sounds.
admittedly, I think these stock tires are crap and soon to be replaced, but I can say I am fairly fine tuned to noticing differences in how engines operate (no independent dyno needed)...say this from conditioning I learned from offshore fishing, 30+ miles into the gulf of mexico, and when I started this it was 30 some years ago, with one engine boats and no gps, just a compass and plenty of beer. under these circumstances, one must keep keenly aware of the running condition of your power source, as if it goes down hill your stuck way out in the ocean, and thus danger could easily arise. So I learned to take note, listening and feeling quite carefully. Thankfully and somewhat blessedly always made it back to port. or maybe this is just a bunch of BS that's been floating in my head for many years??? that's certainly possible, but does seem like a good story and the offshore fishing story is 100% real, did have a few dicey adventures, too many beers and coming into the wrong port (was after gps came out but satellites were down that day)
Back to work, appreciate all this info y'all post on here, soon to attempt bumper removal for snorkles and got a feeling may need some advice for that (wife is gonna freak when I tell her I am taking off the front bumper...she'll say no way I ever get it back on).

 

[Danny5]

I installed a couple K&N filters today. My gauge setup shows intake temperatures, so I'll keep an eye on what the engine is seeing. Need a way to secure these better, but for now happy with how they look.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

So I should not be too worried about fashioning heat shields around my injen before the heat comes?
sucking in cooler air while trucking down the road does seem to make sense. Definitely does not seem an issue in current 50-60 degree temps. but much higher soon to come and stay awhile

Yes and no. My explanation and the other members temperature testing is based on intakes with heat shielding to replicate a closed system the best it can. Comparing the OEM airbox to a CAI with shielding showed similar results. However without any shielding you will definitely get heat soak much quicker.

The difference between the air surrounding my filters and the air on the other side of the shielding wall is huge. My filters and the metal surrounding them stays cool to the touch even after a couple hard runs. To me it makes a world of difference and well worth the small additional cost.

However, as I and others have said that’s mainly a factor when sitting for extended periods of time or after hard runs. Once the car gets moving the hot engine air is replaced with cooler air and the intercooler further cools that air before entering the intake manifold. While moving most open air intakes will perform the same, but being stopped is where heat shielding or a closed system will help significantly.

Hope that helps clarify and happy tuning!

 

[JW Stringer]

Wish I hada intake temp gauge, or maybe not. Yesterday, Intake Tubes quite hot after 5 mi!es in town driving in mid 70's with a stop behind a darn train, and the drive thru.
Can only imagine how it will get under there in mid summer ( not sure I want to see it )
Back to worried on sourcing heat shields soon.
Gonna shut up about this cause it's really quite obvious and more important matters to discuss on here, but...
Last night had crazy idea of small electric fans near the front of air filters that crank up at very low speeds, and when vehicle stopped .... I know, not xactky new tech

 

[runner1]

When the ac is on the fans should be moving air pretty good in the bay.

 

[JW Stringer]

Thanks again for info Stung Blue