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Discussion in 'Kia Stinger TSB Discussion' started by Larry Denen, Jan 28, 2018.
Houston, Texas. Close to downtown
The fix from Kia failed to fully remove the rattle, but this video helped me eliminate it almost completely.
Go out and buy 4 M8 washers, and add one on top of only one of the Kia washers and you'll be happy.
I did this fix last weekend and so far it has eliminated the hatch rattle and "thunk." SO HAPPY! Kia had put between three and five very thin washers on the bolts and it wasn't enough. I put two of the new M8 washers I bought at Home Depot on each bolt since the Kia washers were so thin and some were bent.
Has anyone noticed if their rear hatch rattle is coming from just one side, or from both sides?
My Stinger is still afflicted after several "fixes". The annoying rattle gets louder and happens more often (some days constantly) in cold weather, almost like the bumper parts harden and/or the
gap between the hatch and the rear bumper area becomes wider.
Throughout, my impression has been that the rattle originates from the right rear bumper. I don't discern any rattle coming from the left bumper. I've tried adjusting the screw-ins on the hatch in various combinations, but nothing seems to get rid of the rattle. Very disappointing that this is still a problem after more one year of ownership.
I'd be interested to learn if other owners are hearing which side(s) their rear hatch rattles are coming from. Thanks.
Did you perform the fix shown in the video a few posts above yours? I did that fix and it has completely fixed the issue for about 2 months now. No rattle or thunk over bumps anymore even in really cold weather.
Neoprene M8 washers x 8 (2 for each bolt).
Neoprene allowed for compression without flattening permanently.
Following the video and posts here, I got Zinc M8 flat washers (interesting how hard these were to find at local Home Depot stores), and they were too thick to install 2 on each bolt; the power tailgate could not fully close and would reopen itself. Trying just one per bolt (I didn't have any from KIA as I got the car just a week ago and it didn't have any repairs performed at the dealer over the 8 months it was on the lot) seems to have done the job; no rattles last night over unavoidable bumps that I would fully expect to cause them. Keeping my fingers crossed it stays this way for a while! Very happy it was such a simple job, it being the first time I've used my own hands and tools on a car.
For others trying to follow the video, he mentions Allen, but the bolts are Torx. Someone in the YT comments mentioned T40, but my T30 bit (the biggest that was in my toolkit) worked fine. They were on so tight from the factory I had to use a drill with the T30 bit on it to take them off; definitely couldn't do it by hand or even just using an electric screwdriver. I made sure not to go so tight when I screwed them back on, I trusted the first bit of resistance from the drill to mean it's on tight enough.
I'm very happy I found this thread, and the video recommendation. As much as my previous cars have taught me to get used to creaks and rattles, it proved quite disappointing and frustrating to have such an almost constant rattle (ah, Bay Area roads) from day 1 of ownership.
So, long story short, +1 on the video recommendation. Seems to have done the trick for me too!
For those that have had success, just wondering if you added the washers to the upper bracket-thingy only or upper and lower?
Only upper for me.
I have some rattling in the cold weather with my GT1. Dealer says no TSB applies. Also want to know has anyone had Kia replace the
spoiler- this is the only way to fix the black gasket that’s out of place between the hatch and
spoiler. I’m very concerned about a color match of a new non factory painted part.
Where did you learn that replacing the entire "
spoiler" is the only way to keep the black liner from working its way out? That seems drastic to me. Fitment has to be the issue, not the actual parts: the way a particular vehicle got assembled was faulty, so taking it down and putting it back together properly should work the trick.
This is how the dealer wants to fix it. I think the one concern is that the gasket is actually already damage from being out of place and you can not buy just the foam gasket.
That's a thought, alright. But Kia would be losing a lot of money if this problem appears on enough cars. It would be smarter to make the various parts available. Eventually, service and mechanic personnel will know what to look for. But an experience pool takes time to build.
Hi. I have been off this board for a while, because, unfortunately I am no longer physically comfortable in a low slung car. I had been ready to order a Stinger. Now I am waiting for the 2020 ford Explorer ST w/ rear wheel bias AWD and 400HP. It is redesigned for 2020 and coming out Dec of this year.
ANYWAY, what was the general outcome of the squeaking rear hatches? Has it been fixed to last 100,000 miles?
Thanks, enjoy your Stingers!!
the hatch rattle issue seems to have been fixed by owners adding their own washers ( mostly )
washers worked for me. my '19 didn't have any from the factory/dealer so i used some i luckily already had (looked like the thicker of the two in the video) and it worked perfectly.
Washers all the way around for everyone. Boy I’m glad there are these forums because some of these dealers don’t have a clue about what’s going on with car after 2 years. It’s sad to have to fix your own 40 to 55 thousand dollar car. But sometimes you just have to takes things into your own hands. Luv the car though
Stopped by the Homedepot, picked up 8 M8 zinc washers, used a T40 torx socket. Tried a single washer first. Just drove into work on roads that normally cause a lot of noise. I've got zero rattle.
I gotta stop being lazy and do this myself. I've been to the dealer three times now for diag and then warranty parts and each time they've supposedly fixed this but it always comes back.