Couple of shade-tree mechanic tricks I've learned over my years of DIY-ing Trust me, I don't take risks or shortcuts, but these are cheap tricks that work. Just like the Fumoto drain valves, some of these things don't occur to people until they're pointed out. This is why car forums were created, right?
First: I inherited these ramps in a move one time, and they ended up being the only thing I could get my lowered Mustang up in the air with. I'd drive the car onto the ramps first to have enough clearance to get the jack under the center jacking point (the Mustang...apparently the Stinger doesn't have a center jacking point

). The car was too low to use my Rhino ramps.
They're made from several lengths of 2x10s screwed together. You can customize the length so that the effective ramp angle is less than your car's approach angle. Since according to this thread normal Rhino ramps work with the Stinger's stock ride height, this might only be a solution for those with lowered suspensions.
Solid and durable, and pretty cheap. The garage floor I used them on was so smooth that I glued an 8x10 sheet of sandpaper to the underside of the low end of each ramp to keep them from scooting across the floor in front of the tires.
Second: When the car still isn't high enough for you to get under with a mechanic's creeper, I slide a large sheet of cardboard (Chewy boxes are handy, or a large box from Christmas) under the car, and it makes sliding myself under the car easier than on bare pavement. It also works as a disposable oil catch for those messy oil changes where I can never manage to get it all in the drain pan. The Mustang's oil filter is above the steering rack and cross-member, and always makes a mess, as it sounds like it will be on the Stinger.
Cheers,
