Hey! I see you! Please take two seconds to sign up! We'd love to have you as a member of our Kia Stinger club. You have nothing to lose and so much to gain... :)

Do It Yourself Kia Stinger Oil Change

Discussion in 'Kia Stinger How To's and Do It Yourself' started by Kia Stinger, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. eflyguy

    eflyguy 2500 Posts Club!

    3,296
    1,080
    118
    Location:
    Georgia, USA
    No issue installing an OEM filter here. No different than on the other cars I change oil on that have them - except it's the only one where I have to get underneath the car.
     
  2. 5tinger

    5tinger Australia Active Member

    124
    14
    18
    Bottom mounted filters probably perform better because of gravity & won't soil the engine bay should a leak occur.
     
  3. Dinger

    Dinger United States Newish Member

    10
    15
    3
    Just finished the first oil change at just under 4000 miles on my 2019 GT2 RWD. I thought I'd share some thoughts/techniques/observations.

    First, as for the jacking strategy, I decided to do a tire rotation at the same time, so that dictated my method (madness?). I used the Harbor Freight Daytona super duty low profile jack (the yellow one) and started at one of the front jacking points. That got both the front and rear wheels off the ground. I put a wooden stand under the front tire, then placed a jack stand under the rear jacking point and adjusted it just high enough to keep that rear tire off the ground. Then I went to the other side and did the same thing. Now, all four corners were elevated (and later this seemed to alleviate the problem with the outflowing oil stream hitting that cross member).

    The oil change itself went pretty much as everyone here has described it. I installed a Fumoto F106SX valve while I was at it.

    One thought on the filter: I saw no reason to adjust it to any particular torque setting. Using a flashlight it was easy to see when the cap snugged up against the housing, and I couldn't see how further torquing it would accomplish anything. I made sure it was good and snug with no gap, then left it alone.

    As for adding the new oil, I found that six quarts got me just to the bottom of the normal range on the dipstick (after a short drive to warm things up). It looked like seven quarts was going to be too much, but then it dawned on me that 6-⅔ quarts is exactly one-third of 20 quarts (four 5-quart jugs). Sure enough, 6-⅔ brought the level to just below the full line, and now I know that four jugs will get me exactly three oil changes.

    Doing the rotation while the girl was up in the air made sense. I did the rear while she was still elevated at all four corners, then brought her down. I then jacked from the rear jacking points to get the front tires off the ground and placed jacks at the front jacking points. It occurred to me later that since I wasn't getting under the car anymore I could have just placed a forward jack stand on one side and used the jack to hold up the other side.

    All-in-all it went pretty smoothly, and I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for the tips and tricks.
     
  4. Rob M

    Rob M United States Active Member

    228
    58
    28
    Location:
    Maryland, USA
    That's using your dipstick, Jimmy!
    I use the same strategy, at least until there is a measurable consumption of oil between changes, then maybe full 7qts.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2020
  5. 5tinger

    5tinger Australia Active Member

    124
    14
    18
    Oil was extracted from dipstick tube with a 12V electric pump. It took no less than 7 litres to reach the full mark on the dipstick.

    More oil is extracted via pump than drain plug
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.