Check this out!!! (ECS control module)

[turboAWD]

Thanks for that essay - and I mean that in an honest, appreciative sense!

I had always planned on "springs + sways", mainly because springs are so much work on the AWD (from what I read) that sways should be almost a free install, so might as well do them both. Just trying to figure out if that still makes sense. I don't mind the extra $$ for springs - but I also don't want to pay for stuff I'll never notice.

 

[Ty Davis]

thank you for your insight ! since they are now selling on Ebay, wouldn't they just have hold off to do so if they were looking to sale the unit to the proper region with the adequate codding ?

Mando isn’t selling the unit.
They have repeatedly declined to ship outside of Korea.
The EBay seller “RPMTrade” is a lifesaver that has helped countless people, on various forums, procure hard to find/get Korean automotive merchandise.

He’s a car enthusiast like us. I know they speak very highly of him on the Veloster forums.

Will there ever be an official North American version? I don’t know. But Mando did write me and say they are working on it.

Hopefully, a North America version will include options for RWD or AWD too, as these vehicles have different physical shocks/springs too (even when they are both America models). The AWD seems to be more composed, RWD has more bounce but better roll control.

 

[nhcowboy28]

I’ve been contemplating springs too... But I can’t really state what they’d do for the Stinger (with or without Mando). I’ve only used springs on one car in my entire lifetime. I had a 98 Accord EX V6 back in 1998. That car had an amazingly stable suspension system. My only complaint of it was that it had more nose dive and rear lift during braking than I was used to from my previous Hondas. So I bought H&R OE Soft Sport Springs. They lowered the car .50 inches in the front and .75 inches in the rear. Installed them and they did nothing to help the brake dive. I was disappointed. But then I hit the first corner and then some on/off ramps and I realized WOW, the car cornered completely flat and it felt like it was glued to the road on rails. Very secure cornering. Ride quality was just as composed and smooth as stock at all times. There was a touch of added firmness over potholes but the Accord was so well isolated and the springs worked so well that most people wouldn’t even notice. I ended up keeping the springs because they made nothing worse but improved body roll, increased steering response, and made the steering heavier.

As for the Stinger... I’m not sure what springs will do, because the stock shock tuning is so poor. In my mind, it seems likely that adding a higher rate (lowering) spring to the Stingers already flaccid shocks would add good roll resistance and steering response , but would also ADD to the bounce we already experience. Every time someone posts here about having added their new springs, the first thing I ask is is it bouncier than stock? In the cases of both H&R and Eibach, some say yes some say no. I am convinced that some people don’t care about, notice, or are not bothered by bounce. That being said, I feel that others drive on relatively smooth roads and don’t get into situations where the car bounces.

Here on the forum, most people report that Eibachs reduce the bounce. Again, I’ll have to test a set to be able to describe how they effect this chassis. I do know that the F30 BMW 3 Series suffers from the same type of underdamped suspension we have and when adding springs to those cars you get more stability, but also more bounce. A stiffer spring generally needs a stiffer shock to control it.

I’m more likely to add sways first. The reason why is because when trying to control body roll through the app, it’s far too easy to degrade ride quality and balance. I might end up with sways and springs though... I think the App may not control brake dive as well the stock ECS settings. But this may be a side effect of my brake pad selection. (I’ve got grippier pads on the rear - Euro Stinger pads).

In any event, I’ve wondered several times “how would the Mando feel with stiffer springs?”
It might be a nice addition. That being said, the Stingers problem is not the springs. The stock spring rates are quite decent. It’s these shocks that are holding us back. Everything else is just a bandaid for the poorly calibrated shocks. Since a good shock is not available, I’m happy with a bandaid, that works...

About the G70 suspension coding. I almost flipped when I saw those settings! Now I have to go drive a G70 with the Electronic suspension... When I test drove the G70 this summer, I specifically chose a model with the regular suspension thinking that G70 ECS had the same bad habits as ours. I drove a 3.3 RWD Advanced with regular suspension. It was smooth, compliant, and firm. But it still had bounce like the Stinger over some larger dips and bumps (though to a lesser degree). I immediately brought the car back and didn’t look any further.
Now that I have access to G70 coding, I need to try an Adaptive Suspension G70. Maybe it’s what I’m looking for. If so, I’d end up buying G70 Adaptive shocks and fitting them to my Stinger. Then, just coding them in.
But I’ve seen a couple G70 video reviews and I can always spot what looks like a reduced version of the Stingers bounce. So, we’ll see.

That Android phone will do just as well for tuning... Especially as more and more people get the Mando and are able to start reporting and comparing custom settings. We’ll eventually figure out what works best. If you find you can’t get a good custom setting with Androids separated controls, you can always grab an acquaintance and/or their iPhone for a bit of quick testing and experimentation.

You’ll definitely enjoy playing with the Mando settings. Ever since I started tweaking the suspension, I spend more time on “test roads/routes” than I do normal driving. It’s quite amazing and engrossing making changes and seeing how the car responds. You can really get carried away with tweaking the dampers.

Jesus Christ. Is there a cliff notes available?

 

[Ty Davis]

Thanks for that essay - and I mean that in an honest, appreciative sense!

I had always planned on "springs + sways", mainly because springs are so much work on the AWD (from what I read) that sways should be almost a free install, so might as well do them both. Just trying to figure out if that still makes sense. I don't mind the extra $$ for springs - but I also don't want to pay for stuff I'll never notice.

Lol! I do tend to be a bit long winded.
I want to give as much information as possible so that people have some point of reference when they are shopping and making decisions. When I bought mine there were no reviews or insight on the product, and I try to include answers to all of the questions and concerns I had back then.

Ideally you could score a ride in an Eibach equipped Stinger and see what that’s like. But if your area is like mine, that may be a hard find. Stingers are just so few. Stingers with Eibach, H&R, or ARK springs are rarer still.
You may have to just take a leap of faith and install the sways AND springs.

Let me ask, what exactly do you want your Stinger to do differently with the aftermarket parts that it’s not doing now? What do you want to achieve? You have RWD or AWD?

 

[nhcowboy28]

Mando isn’t selling the unit.
They have repeatedly declined to ship outside of Korea.
The EBay seller “RPMTrade” is a lifesaver that has helped countless people, on various forums, procure hard to find/get Korean automotive merchandise.

In other words, buy em while they hot! Cause’ they won’t be round long before Mando comando shuts that chit down.

 

[KLR STINGER]

Thanks Ty. I'll look into that

View attachment 31581

I am using this Gscan2 by Gitauto.
This same company supplies the OEM Kia scantool.
Accordingly, they tend to get Kia/Hyundai/Genesis updates rather quickly.

I tried 2 other scantool before finding this one. None of them could access any of the Stingers coding functions because new Hyundai/Kia vehicles/platforms have a new “Security Gateway” that blocks access to bidirectional controls and coding. There are a lot of tools that are still limited to just basic OBD2 functions on the Stinger, because of this.

The unit was pricey, but I love it. $2.5k
A new Gscan3 has been released overseas, but is not yet available here or many other places.
That being said, this G2 does everything I ever ask of it.

I also tried the Autel MS906bt. $1.2k
It was half the price of the G2 and a bit faster moving through the menus too.
But, it was not updated to work completely and thoroughly on the Stinger yet because of the Security Gateway.
That was back in March. It may very well be compatible with our cars by now. It was especially nice because it had a Bluetooth adapter that plugged into the Obd2 port, rather than the wired connection of my Gscan2.

Whatever you buy (if other than the Gscan2), confirm that the tool works with the new Hyundai Kia Security Gateway.

I’ll be starting a separate thread soon about some of the nicer modifications you can make with coding.

 

[KLR STINGER]

I'll chime in to say that I don't think this is a replacement for hard parts in the quest for the best suspension setup.

Sway bars for me have always been about getting lateral body control and rotation characteristics I want. It's always one of the first things I do to a car, which is why I ordered Eibach kit the first day I ordered the car. Even with the rwd bias, I still found the AWD stinger to understeer a bit. The sways fixed that for me

Springs are part ride height and quality vs stiffness. I'm always after sharper turn in and front end response without super hard and bouncy ride. Then of course the right stance. The Eibach Springs did that for me

Lastly is vertical body control. That's where this module comes into place. This affects things like tracking over bumps. The feeling that the wheel motion is not unsettling the body. Ie the mid corner bump bouncing the Stinger has. The ECS10 has done the most to fix that. I also feel initial turn in has been tightened. Just goes where is pointed that much better now.

The module alone isn't going to make the car a world class handler, but it's a key peice that's been missing. With the spring/sway/esc10 combo, this car is transformed. It's dead flat in the corners, turns in sharply and feels more connected to the road, and feels like the wheels and body are operating as one. If someone were going to make a true "M" or "RS" version of this car, this is what it should feel like. I love it more now that I've before

 

[Ty Davis]

I'll chime in to say that I don't think this is a replacement for hard parts in the quest for the best suspension setup.

Sway bars for me have always been about getting lateral body control and rotation characteristics I want. It's always one of the first things I do to a car, which is why I ordered Eibach kit the first day I ordered the car. Even with the rwd bias, I still found the AWD stinger to understeer a bit. The sways fixed that for me

Springs are part ride height and quality vs stiffness. I'm always after sharper turn in and front end response without super hard and bouncy ride. Then of course the right stance. The Eibach Springs did that for me

Lastly is vertical body control. That's where this module comes into place. This affects things like tracking over bumps. The feeling that the wheel motion is not unsettling the body. Ie the mid corner bump bouncing the Stinger has. The ECS10 has done the most to fix that. I also feel initial turn in has been tightened. Just goes where is pointed that much better now.

The module alone isn't going to make the car a world class handler, but it's a key peice that's been missing. With the spring/sway/esc10 combo, this car is transformed. It's dead flat in the corners, turns in sharply and feels more connected to the road, and feels like the wheels and body are operating as one. If someone were going to make a true "M" or "RS" version of this car, this is what it should feel like. I love it more now that I've before

I concur. ️

 

[xot1]

Since a good shock is not available, I’m happy with a bandaid, that works...

Why do you say so? There are quite a bunch of coilover options available.

 

[Ty Davis]

Why do you say so? There are quite a bunch of coilover options available.

Yes. Coilovers are plentiful, as well being a great “complete” solution for the Stingers dynamic woes.

When I said shocks, I was thinking more along the lines of just aftermarket OEM replacement shocks, like Bilstein/Koni/KYB.

Coils are awesome too, though many can add a bit of a clearance issue if you are not very careful with the front wheel/tire width and offset. Larger setups can rub on the front shock hardware.

My favorite setups tend to be of the soft spring, stiff shock, big bar type.
Though, I’d love to see a Coilover that interfaced with the Stingers ECS System.

 

[Tonkabob]

I'll chime in to say that I don't think this is a replacement for hard parts in the quest for the best suspension setup.

Sway bars for me have always been about getting lateral body control and rotation characteristics I want. It's always one of the first things I do to a car, which is why I ordered Eibach kit the first day I ordered the car. Even with the rwd bias, I still found the AWD stinger to understeer a bit. The sways fixed that for me

Springs are part ride height and quality vs stiffness. I'm always after sharper turn in and front end response without super hard and bouncy ride. Then of course the right stance. The Eibach Springs did that for me

Lastly is vertical body control. That's where this module comes into place. This affects things like tracking over bumps. The feeling that the wheel motion is not unsettling the body. Ie the mid corner bump bouncing the Stinger has. The ECS10 has done the most to fix that. I also feel initial turn in has been tightened. Just goes where is pointed that much better now.

The module alone isn't going to make the car a world class handler, but it's a key peice that's been missing. With the spring/sway/esc10 combo, this car is transformed. It's dead flat in the corners, turns in sharply and feels more connected to the road, and feels like the wheels and body are operating as one. If someone were going to make a true "M" or "RS" version of this car, this is what it should feel like. I love it more now that I've before

What setting are you using on the Mando? Sport or did you do something custom? I've just been using Sport so far. Tried full stiff to make sure it really worked and kept settings between restarts and it does. Pogo stick on full firm.

 

[turboAWD]

Let me ask, what exactly do you want your Stinger to do differently with the aftermarket parts that it’s not doing now? What do you want to achieve? You have RWD or AWD?

Better turning, and to get rid of the bouncing in turns, mostly. I haven't really pushed it much so far, but eventually, I want to do some HPDE and don't want to feel like I'm bouncing all over the place. If it could be a bit less jarring over speed bumps, that wouldn't hurt! I had sways + Konis (OEM springs) in my Legacy GT wagon, and while a bit stiff/bouncy at times, it also inspired a lot more confidence than the Stinger out-of-the-box. I know, not exactly a fair comparison.

I can live with sub-par HDPE performance - I want to at least try it a few times, just with some upgraded pads/fluid and maybe Mando set to "very stiff" to see if I really like it and to pursue it. At that point, we'll see. I had PSS-9s on a '94 Corrado, and not sure I ever got them fully dialed in - rear was always very bouncy.

 

[Waynerm002]

I have to retract my statement on the fully maxed setting, I checked the app today and what they did was change the middle setting (100km/62mph) to max speed (124km/77mph) and the hardest setting, which we probably experienced briefly during the drives. Today I used the basic setting to set ride and handling to 70 (front and rear) and it was just too hard and bouncy. I wanted to see what 80 would do and that lasted for a very short time before I switched it to Sport. I stopped and cleared the settings and went from 40-70 % hardness with the back being about 5% firmer, setting the max speed to about 70 to test it. As Ty mentioned, those road imperfections started to be felt at a higher level. Need to work on this some mre for my liking. What I would want to learn is what their Sport setting is tuned for and then start from there. When I initialized (reset) the custom setting, I noticed it is set for 40% front/60% rear for both ride and handling in the Advanced section and 50/50 on both, in the Basic.

Ty, once you get that G70 setting dialed in and then go drive one, I want to hear how you find it and if you can get the Mando box to a similar level of tune. I'm going to set some different numbers on the custom modes and see how they feel.

 

[Gtecko]

So isn't it worth it?

 

[KLR STINGER]

What setting are you using on the Mando? Sport or did you do something custom? I've just been using Sport so far. Tried full stiff to make sure it really worked and kept settings between restarts and it does. Pogo stick on full firm.

Just using the sport mode so far. When I get back to the country I'll fiddle with the custom modes. I'll make one for drag launch with 90/10 to compression/rebound ratio up front and slightly more compression rear till it seems weight transfer is ideal.

Then I'll experiment with a harder compression rear softer front to see if I can elicit some more oversteer.

Please don't mistake my comments. It's absolutely worth it, but I don't think this alone will make up for all the things I think you need for the car to be perfect. Perfect to me = you milage may vary

 

[Waynerm002]

So I've been out for about 2 hours fiddling with the settings. I decided to start with 30/35 for the ride and 40/40 for the handling, it was a good place to start for me. Moved on to 35/40 on the ride and 40/50 on the handling, decided to keep that one as the ride was smooth and taut for a normal drive. Decided to go a bit more to firm up the handling as I like the ride comfort there, so bumped it to 50/60, liked that as well, so I went a little further to 55/65. This ended being the one I prefer for a a balance of good dampening, sporty feel and good handling while not feeling every bit of the road. Most of the ride was with the car in it's comfort setting with the Mado settings applied. I then decided to go into Sport mode to have a bit of fun and that combo did make the car feel a lot better for me. I plan on ramping up the handling a bit more probably to 60/70 and the ride to about 38/44 to see if that would make better sport mode for my ride.

 

[jongkihong]

So I've been out for about 2 hours fiddling with the settings. I decided to start with 30/35 for the ride and 40/40 for the handling, it was a good place to start for me. Moved on to 35/40 on the ride and 40/50 on the handling, decided to keep that one as the ride was smooth and taut for a normal drive. Decided to go a bit more to firm up the handling as I like the ride comfort there, so bumped it to 50/60, liked that as well, so I went a little further to 55/65. This ended being the one I prefer for a a balance of good dampening, sporty feel and good handling while not feeling every bit of the road. Most of the ride was with the car in it's comfort setting with the Mado settings applied. I then decided to go into Sport mode to have a bit of fun and that combo did make the car feel a lot better for me. I plan on ramping up the handling a bit more probably to 60/70 and the ride to about 38/44 to see if that would make better sport mode for my ride.

For Korean users
We share experiences with each data.
This is because different people are satisfied.
For customers who have purchased ECS
Please tell a lot of experience stories.

 

[ScottM]

I just received mine last night! I'll be "installing" it this weekend. Very fast shipping by @jongkihong...I mean his shipping speed might rival amazon prime! Now all I have to do is scroll through this thread to find the instructions... seems easy enough to "install". If you don't see me around here ever again...that's because I cut the wrong wire and KaBoom!!!!

 

[sym]

Someone else might have posted this but the install shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

You don't need to remove any kick panels. Just grab the top of the steering column by the light / windshield wiper stalks and gently separate the top. I used a spudger here but you probably don't need it. It's attached with a piece of cloth to the steering wheel but I just lifted it up and tucked it in the gauge cluster. There's two screws that you will need to turn the steering wheel to access - you'll need a pretty big phillips screwdriver and they are tapped directly into the plastic so they're harder than you'd expect to get out. There's a third one under the steering wheel. Then the bottom of the steering column will pop off and you can access the connectors.

It probably took me 15 minutes to install total, about 10 of those was looking for posi-taps / add-a-fuses. I ended up using a posi-tap on a wire for a fuse I had already added - I didn't want to tap into the factory wiring.

The negative lead I put to a threaded post near the brake pedal. Check these with a multimeter if you haven't already established a chassis ground. A few of the threaded posts have enamel on them and won't make a good ground without removing it first.

I just found a solid place for the module in the fuse box.

 

[Beefer]