Ok Tks only been driving on mine two 2 weeks and had alignment done. I'm sure I'll need to redo it. So far very happy.
Im not sure exactly height wise as I did not install or adjust the coilovers, had a trusted mechanic do it. Actually looking to raise the rears as the car is squatting down on the rear currently. Here's a picture of what it looks like currently. The face concaves do not match so I am actually ordering a new pair of wheels for the rear @ 18x10 +35 offset.
If you matched the ride height to the front looks like you would be set. Like the color contrast on the wheels goes well with the car.
Nice setup. What do you have the front camber set to?
Should be a good one, especially for testing out the new coilover suspension.
your handling upgrade posts are always entertaining reads. but I wonder, do you sleep well at night?Nice setup. What do you have the front camber set to?
We just got Riaction coilovers installed on our G70 over the weekend too. Since we already done Eibach lowering spring install twice, this was pretty much a walk in the park. Although, doing it in 100F Summer heat wave was no joke.
Picked up this set used at a bargain price from a Stinger owner. Needed a bit of TLC, but now good as new! We have a special AutoX event coming up mid-Aug at Eagle Canyon Raceway, dubbed "1 MIllion Cones".
I moved the rear anti-roll bar setting back to the "soft" hole, matching the front. Now that we got proper front camber at -2.0deg F&R and adjustable shocks, which are the right ways to reduce the pesky initial understeer, I wanted the anti-roll bars reset to baseline.
IMO, lightweight wheels, 18" tires with good compliance, coupled with well-damped shocks and stiffer springs, for excellent chassis control, make for optimum grip/handling. Stock setup with under-damped shocks, softs springs, coupled with heavy 19" wheels and stiff sidewall tires, is just @ss backward.
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I'm not who you were asking but also just installed Riaction coilovers. My camber is set at 0 front and -1 degree rear. Handles beautifully. If I notice any outer tie wear on the front I might go to .5 negative up front. The alignment tech asked me what I wanted to do, track it, drive it this is my daily driver so I wanted longevity on tire wear. No complaints in cornering rock solid. Staggered wheel setup 245 front 285 back on 20sNice setup. What do you have the front camber set to?
We just got Riaction coilovers installed on our G70 over the weekend too. Since we already done Eibach lowering spring install twice, this was pretty much a walk in the park. Although, doing it in 100F Summer heat wave was no joke.
Picked up this set used at a bargain price from a Stinger owner. Needed a bit of TLC, but now good as new! We have a special AutoX event coming up mid-Aug at Eagle Canyon Raceway, dubbed "1 MIllion Cones".
I moved the rear anti-roll bar setting back to the "soft" hole, matching the front. Now that we got proper front camber at -2.0deg F&R and adjustable shocks, which are the right ways to reduce the pesky initial understeer, I wanted the anti-roll bars reset to baseline.
IMO, lightweight wheels, 18" tires with good compliance, coupled with well-damped shocks and stiffer springs, for excellent chassis control, make for optimum grip/handling. Stock setup with under-damped shocks, softs springs, coupled with heavy 19" wheels and stiff sidewall tires, is just @ss backward.
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I wake up in the middle of the night, from a dream of me having just launched from the starting grid at Norschleife, only to realize I'm in a Toyota Prius... and I forgot to change out the snow tires for track rubber. AHHHH!!!
Nice!
With my saggy lowering springs I was about -2.5 in the front but tires wore premature, handling was spot on
Yea, I believe that the ride height was set to be matched but only on the suspension end of things, rather than the actual ride height both F/R. Will make the adjustment thursday and post back again!
Installs during heat waves SUCK, oh man. While I didnt get an alignment yet, I did a little phone test with the compass and from the looks of it, the front camber is at about... -4 or so which isn't all that crazy to be honest, rear is sitting a bit more which will be taken out a bit to match the fronts once the raise happens. I originally wanted to run about -4 or so for the mean, racey look and fit but ordered the wrong rear wheel specs haha. Riaction is actually developing a mount to adapt a traditional swift spring design for the rear (no ETA last I asked) so once that is out, im going to increase spring rates to F- 10kg/R - 12kg, so a 2kg increase both front and rear.Nice setup. What do you have the front camber set to?
We just got Riaction coilovers installed on our G70 over the weekend too. Since we already done Eibach lowering spring install twice, this was pretty much a walk in the park. Although, doing it in 100F Summer heat wave was no joke.
Picked up this set used at a bargain price from a Stinger owner. Needed a bit of TLC, but now good as new! We have a special AutoX event coming up mid-Aug at Eagle Canyon Raceway, dubbed "1 MIllion Cones".
I moved the rear anti-roll bar setting back to the "soft" hole, matching the front. Now that we got proper front camber at -2.0deg F&R and adjustable shocks, which are the right ways to reduce the pesky initial understeer, I wanted the anti-roll bars reset to baseline.
IMO, lightweight wheels, 18" tires with good compliance, coupled with well-damped shocks and stiffer springs, for excellent chassis control, make for optimum grip/handling. Stock setup with under-damped shocks, softs springs, coupled with heavy 19" wheels and stiff sidewall tires, is just @ss backward.
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With 18" tires, we can get away with a bit more negative camber. However, too much is not good either. Ideally, you want just enough negative camber to offset the change in outside front wheel geometry due to lateral lean and weight transfer, such that - at max lateral g - an even pressure distribution over the entire contact patch produces optimum grip.
Stinger will then get the hand-me-down.That 2-way setup would be baller for sure.With 18" tires, we can get away with a bit more negative camber. However, too much is not good either. Ideally, you want just enough negative camber to offset the change in outside front wheel geometry due to lateral lean and weight transfer, such that - at max lateral g - an even pressure distribution over the entire contact patch produces optimum grip.
I'm okay with the rear springs actually. It's a comparatively large 260mm, so it has a good bit more thermal mass and should also be more linear over it's range of travel than the dinky lil' front 160mm spring. But a Swift upgrade is never a bad thing.
If I had ordered the set new, I would've gone with their 2-way adjustable with remote reservoir. If we like this new setup at ECR, I might just do that.
Yeah, the remote reservoir is also of great benefit, especially for the long 20-min sessions at full-on track days. Shocks absorb energy by turning it into heat, but like any oil, the higher the shock temp the lower the oil viscosity. When I ran the Stinger at MSR Cresson last Oct., the already underdamped stock shocks basically went to mush in the afternoon, with even less damping control. With the remote reservoir, the additional thermal capacity, plus more cooling effect, would really help in long HPDE events like that. Short-duration track sprint and AutoX isn't quite as bad, but it would still help.
Ride height adjustment done today along with an alignment! Turns out I was running much less camber than I thought all around and ended up pulling some out of the rear. Final camber set to -2.7 ish front, -1.5 ish in the rear
-2.7 for street driving sounds a bit extreme how do you expect your tire wear to be? I'm sure it will handle amazing and can you rotate all four ? I'm stagered so limited there.
255/40R18 has good tire compliance, so you should be okay. Just make sure to set the tire pressure properly - cold 32F 34R are correct for the size, not 36F 39R as listed for OEM 225/45R18.
-2.7 for street driving is nothing tbh
I definitely do want to test how it feels with the squared setup compared to stock, this’ll be fun to try255/40R18 has good tire compliance, so you should be okay. Just make sure to set the tire pressure properly - cold 32F 34R are correct for the size, not 36F 39R as listed for OEM 225/45R18.
I would test the cornering attitude any time you make substantial camber settings change. Obviously track is best for that, but you can still do a quick check in a large open parking lot (no lamp poles). Switch ABS and TC off. Get into a relatively tight spinning circle as though you are at a skidpad. Make sure there is enough clearance all around if you do lose control. Get the speed up to where the tires just start chirping, and keep a steady throttle. Take note of how your steering wheel is pointing. It should be slightly into the turn (understeer). If it's pointing straight or even slightly pointing to the outside, you'd better know how to drive with oversteer.
If the lot is wide enough, you can do figure-8's to test transient response. Again, like on a real skidpad:
Last check... while still in that tight turn, lift off the accel pedal suddenly. Let us know what happens.
Socalvn is running 20" wheels and tires, IIRC. The shorter and stiffer sidewalls do make a difference on optimum camber settings. In fact, on every one of my alignment sheets, it lists acceptable ranges for each of the parameters for the 18s I have one. Some of these ranges will most likely be different for 19s and for sure 20s.
