What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

[Ric 'Ochet]

What vinyl film did you discover that matched the Federation Orange?? I tried 3m and Oracal colors and they were off a bit.

PM’d you back.

 

[turboAWD]

Yeah, I get that. That's ok - I have to transfer to two gallon recycling jugs anyway at some point, so whether I do that in the middle or at the end doesn't matter too much. It's supposed to do something like 1 gal/min, so it's not like it would take that long. My goal is to see if I can remove the pneumatic setup to use it to go to the recycling jugs directly. Or just do 2-3 quarts, empty, then let it run type of thing.

If it's a real hassle, I'll just return it and keep using my Fumoto. I've already done that twice. However, I'm doing HPDE, so I'm flushing the oil much more often (this time after ~700 miles), and I'm planning to not bother with the oil filter this time. The '15 chrysler minivan also takes a bunch (and has a fumoto as well). The real reason I'm trying this is that the wife's mk7 gti doesn't have a fumoto available and has some funky plastic plug. I think that will fit into here as well.

Just to follow up - after getting the 6L jug, and seeing how it worked, I realized the problem with "stopping in the middle", so I returned it, and got the EWK 10-liter version. Used my compressor, and it took a bit of playing with it to start it working, but after that, could just let it sit and sit for a while (it kept getting small amounts at the end). In the end, took out ~7L. For a "flush-and-fill" (I did an HPDE event, only 1K miles on the oil), I think that's decent. Better than jacking up the car, crawling under, undoing 6 screws and letting it drain for 1-2 hours.

I know "oil filter relocation kits" exist (I know someone who did one for his Subaru) - I wonder if such a thing could work for the Stinger? Having the filter on top would be amazing.

 

[turboAWD]

The proper, constant tension, hose clamps came in today for my BMS OCC and tossed them on. Now it looks almost factory and I don't have to worry asbout them loosening up.
View attachment 61405

Are these different from what ships with the BMS OCC? If so, where did you get them / part #s?

 

[RogueIV]

Are these different from what ships with the BMS OCC? If so, where did you get them / part #s?

yes. BMS ships them with worm gear clamps, which aren't bad really but that are way bigger than needed for the hose so you end up with this excess at the end just looking meh. I actually go through a lot of clamps on other projects so I just bought this assortment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SVXM3JQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the 18mm ones but honestly you could probably use the 17mm or even 16mm ones.

 

[turboAWD]

yes. BMS ships them with worm gear clamps, which aren't bad really but that are way bigger than needed for the hose so you end up with this excess at the end just looking meh. I actually go through a lot of clamps on other projects so I just bought this assortment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SVXM3JQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the 18mm ones but honestly you could probably use the 17mm or even 16mm ones.

Thanks. I should see if I have any leftovers from my Subaru. Seems like overkill to buy 80 when I need 2 or 3 (I forget how many the BMS needs) Or buy the kit and send out 2/3 to whoever needs some for like $2.00.

Funny that the silvers ones are 60 cents more than gold.

 

[RogueIV]

In less stellar news and more of "what did some jackass do to your Stinger today?" Someone dropped something on my hood while my car was parked putting 4 short but deep gouges into it. Of course they cowardly took off and left no info. On the positive side, this may push me to get the ventless hood and just have that repainted instead.

Thanks. I should see if I have any leftovers from my Subaru. Seems like overkill to buy 80 when I need 2 or 3 (I forget how many the BMS needs) Or buy the kit and send out 2/3 to whoever needs some for like $2.00.

Funny that the silvers ones are 60 cents more than gold.

For the price it's worth it to have them around. I mean you could probably just buy ones just in 17mm but it wouldn't save you much. The maintenance free OCC only requires 2 hoseclamps as you reuse one from the factory hose.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

So officially installed… looks money to me..

 

[Transmetal]

Looks amazing! Did you already have the lights installed or did you do the lights and the snorkels at the same time?

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

Looks amazing! Did you already have the lights installed or did you do the lights and the snorkels at the same time?

Did it all at the same time, so much easier with the bumper off.

 

[Rynil2000]

Besides the fluid what kind of cost for the rotors and pads?

I purchased the rotors directly from Cquence. They are just the plain, smooth face "sport" rotors. Which without the holes or slots, means I probably could have just purchased from Centric as they are just machined at Cquence, but whatever. The best part is the black "e-coating" on the hats and sides of the rotors. The stock ones aren't coated and my rims (TSW Neptune) show through to the hats, so the black looks much better than rust.

I purchased the pads from buybrakes.com. It was my first time using them, but their prices were among the best. Customer service was really good. Apparently the EBC YellowStuff rear pads were out of stock, so they reached out to try and get me something similar to fulfill the order. In the end, all the similar rear pads (StopTech and Hawk) were all on backorder, so I just opted to wait for the EBC rear pads to come back in stock. It took about 8 weeks from order to get everything in hand.

Install was easy. Front rotors came off with a few mallet whacks. The rear rotors needed a little more persuasion with a nut and bolt placed through the caliper ear mounting location to push the rotor from behind. My buddy is a tool junky so he had all the goodies to make it a simple job - QuickJack lift, caliper spreader, and a Motive Pressure Bleeder.

Costs:

• Cquence Sport Plain rotors - set of 4 = $520 (w/ 5% memorial day sale)
• EBC YellowStuff front pads (DP42356R) = $125
• EBD YellowStuff rear pads (DP42357R) = $120
• StopTech 600F Fluid (3 cans 500ml) = $50

Total = $815 and 6 hours of wrenching

I'm still impressed with the increase in stopping power. Even easy stops during the brake-in period are noticeably more grabby. I can't wait to get them out on a twisty mountain road.

If I had caught the vibration early or changed the pads primitively, I could have saved some cost on the rotors. No way in hell I'd risk the dummies at the Kia dealership to remove, machine, and replace my rotors. The cost of the new rotors vs the likelihood of a tech damaging my wheels was a no brainer.

 

[Aloneinthefog1]

Yup and yeah I know I was parking in a rush totally goofed that

That's sharp! If you care for me to ask, how much did it cost to have done or did you do it yourself? If the later is the case how much to do mine?

 

[dtrail7a]

New strut braces and black edition HKS BOV's. I guess it's supposed to be a common sense thing since the instructions don't say you need them, but I didn't have caps for the vacuum lines from the cai, so I had to use arysol can lids and tape to get me to True Value to get some chair stoppers. Lol

 

[Rhinoplasti78]

That's sharp! If you care for me to ask, how much did it cost to have done or did you do it yourself? If the later is the case how much to do mine?

I had them done they charged me $150 per wheel which was the average rate from the 3-4 shops I called with a 24 hour turn around time

 

[Aloneinthefog1]

I had them done they charged me $150 per wheel which was the average rate from the 3-4 shops I called with a 24 hour turn around time

Thanks for the info I appreciate it

 

[Hawk853]

New strut braces and black edition HKS BOV's. I guess it's supposed to be a common sense thing since the instructions don't say you need them, View attachment 61494but I didn't have caps for the vacuum lines from the cai, so I had to use arysol can lids and tape to get me to True Value to get some chair stoppers. LolView attachment 61493

That black wrinkle looks great.

 

[P22Tyler]

I have the MBRP and I love it and no drone, good choice!

I did a lot of research on the different ones and thought the MBRP had the best sound. That sound in the upper range of revs with the engine under load is fantastic. Like I said I fell in love and knew I'd made the right choice when I hit that.

 

[Spyder168]

I did a lot of research on the different ones and thought the MBRP had the best sound. That sound in the upper range of revs with the engine under load is fantastic. Like I said I fell in love and knew I'd made the right choice when I hit that.

I listened to exhaust available and the MBRP was my favorite so I installed it, no regrets at all...lots of compliments about how great it sounds.

 

[Aloneinthefog1]

Just appearance stuff this time, trunk script in carbon fiber, GTS steering wheel overlay and last but certainly not least the Devil claw canard lights that in my opinion looks phenomenal! I'm still waiting for the S Korean center console cup holder I ordered 3wks ago

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

Bought these..well..just because…

 

[Aloneinthefog1]

Lol your not gonna believe this but I bought those too but I'd forgotten about them because they were the first thing I put on, Sunday when I first got the package of goodies

Bought these..well..just because…