The mechanic did a superb job of breaking mostly all of them off down inside the threading. He did try the weld trick but it kept breaking.Is it possible to weld some nut to that stud? Separate the turbo exhaust housing and heat it up.
The mechanic did a superb job of breaking mostly all of them off down inside the threading. He did try the weld trick but it kept breaking.Is it possible to weld some nut to that stud? Separate the turbo exhaust housing and heat it up.
That sucks. Replacing the exhaust turbo housing is the only thing i can think of.The mechanic did a superb job of breaking mostly all of them off down inside the threading. He did try the weld trick but it kept breaking.
I tried finding this as a stand-alone part instead of ordering the entire turbo. Any suggestions there?That sucks. Replacing the exhaust turbo housing is the only thing i can think of.
I tried finding this as a stand-alone part instead of ordering the entire turbo. Any suggestions there?
isn't that the entire turbo?there's only one side i could find. But for the awsome price you get the whole new unit.![]()
OEM 28231-3L100 G70 G80 G90 K900 Stinger 3.3L Left Engine Force Induction Turbo | eBay
2019-2020 Kia K900 3.3L. 2018-2020 Genesis G90 3.3L. 2018-2020 Genesis G80 3.3L. 2019-2020 Genesis G70 3.3L. 2018-2020 Kia Stinger 3.3L. OEM Traders International. This left side turbo is for the 3.3L Sport only.www.ebay.com
Minus wastegate. That was the one i bought some time ago, to have it as a spare.isn't that the entire turbo?
I guess I’m looking for just the exhaust part, which i hope would be cheaper by itself. Pic of mineMinus wastegate.
i might not be understanding the question, apologies - but i don't think the stud is accessible from the other sideIs it broken from other side too?
No, you are right. I don't have the part in front of me. On some turbos you can get to it from other side. Sorry, not sure what else can be done.i might not be understanding the question, apologies - but i don't think the stud is accessible from the other side
These guys don’t seem to have the right equipment. Titanium coated drill bits are snake oil Home Depot drill bits.I’m kind of in an emergency situation because the machine shop guy leaves for weeks starting tomorrow - sorry for posting twice. I’m not familiar with this tool myself, but could you put into newbie level dialogue what I can tell the machine shop to do with my broken studs? They’ve tried titanium and carbide bits and seem to of given up on drilling them out. Most are now broken off down inside and they have said it appears the material of the bolts literally melted.
Well, that’s where I took it - to the machine shop. Should be I looking for something else?These guys don’t seem to have the right equipment. Titanium coated drill bits are snake oil Home Depot drill bits.
Might be best to take the turbos to a machinist. They’ll have those suds out in minutes.
This really shouldn’t be an issue for a machinist. I’d just find someone else.Well, that’s where I took it - to the machine shop. Should be I looking for something else?
Yeah working on that now. Everyone seems so hesitant it’s like pulling teeth lolThis really shouldn’t be an issue for a machinist. I’d just find someone else.
Hey what size is the Allen key an 8mm? Doing my driver's side oil feed line and need to remove the coolant lines to get the top main coolant hardline offThank you for chiming in! I've got most everything off, now working on the turbo coolant lines and it's a pretty tight fit. Gonna cut down my hex wrench to get the 2nd but off. Even though others have done it, I can't help but worry that the turbo won't have enough room to come out!
Here is how it's sitting right now, so far has been really easy...
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And here is my hex wrench next to the coolant line bolts...
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I've got a ton of pictures and will post a better, more detailed explanation of what I did.
what size allen key for those banjo bolts?Oh don't worry, the stud is out. The dealership got it out. Vice grips weren't working, despite my custom cutting in the stud.
The reason why I'm pulling the turbo is because I can't tap the threads while it's in there, the turbo flange is really hard, along with there being very little room.
New studs are in hand.
Also, just finished cutting down my hex wrench to reach both bolts for the coolant line on the turbo. Gonna pull the turbo coolant line after work in the morning.
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@ZyroXZ2 - did you have to move the wiring harness at all to make room for the turbo to come out? Looks like it could get in the way..