Turbo flange studs

The mechanic did a superb job of breaking mostly all of them off down inside the threading. He did try the weld trick but it kept breaking.
That sucks. Replacing the exhaust turbo housing is the only thing i can think of.
 
That sucks. Replacing the exhaust turbo housing is the only thing i can think of.
I tried finding this as a stand-alone part instead of ordering the entire turbo. Any suggestions there?
 
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I tried finding this as a stand-alone part instead of ordering the entire turbo. Any suggestions there?
there's only one side i could find. But for the awsome price you get the whole new unit.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Is it broken from other side too?
 
i might not be understanding the question, apologies - but i don't think the stud is accessible from the other side
No, you are right. I don't have the part in front of me. On some turbos you can get to it from other side. Sorry, not sure what else can be done.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I’m kind of in an emergency situation because the machine shop guy leaves for weeks starting tomorrow - sorry for posting twice. I’m not familiar with this tool myself, but could you put into newbie level dialogue what I can tell the machine shop to do with my broken studs? They’ve tried titanium and carbide bits and seem to of given up on drilling them out. Most are now broken off down inside and they have said it appears the material of the bolts literally melted.
These guys don’t seem to have the right equipment. Titanium coated drill bits are snake oil Home Depot drill bits.

Might be best to take the turbos to a machinist. They’ll have those suds out in minutes.
 
These guys don’t seem to have the right equipment. Titanium coated drill bits are snake oil Home Depot drill bits.

Might be best to take the turbos to a machinist. They’ll have those suds out in minutes.
Well, that’s where I took it - to the machine shop. Should be I looking for something else?
 
Well, that’s where I took it - to the machine shop. Should be I looking for something else?
This really shouldn’t be an issue for a machinist. I’d just find someone else.
 
After reading all that, I have a new definition for this acronym:

KISS!

Keep It Stock Stupid!

And that last 'S' is specifically aimed at me... :D
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
At this point if your already in the serious money sink realm then you might as well buy some stuffed turbos and call it a day. As someone who had to swap my passenger side turbo I know how much fun that can be. Messed up 2 bolts, had to buy 2 and also had to tap one hole on the turbo flange. Managed to install it without dropping the engine. Been over a year and no leak yet so I would call that a success.
To all those with snapped bolts and dropped engines: ooof.
Also if someone wants a passenger turbo for said core swap then I got one with bad blades for a discount. Don't know the effort required to take the flange off and swap it on an otherwise good turbo.
 
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Does
Thank you for chiming in! I've got most everything off, now working on the turbo coolant lines and it's a pretty tight fit. Gonna cut down my hex wrench to get the 2nd but off. Even though others have done it, I can't help but worry that the turbo won't have enough room to come out!

Here is how it's sitting right now, so far has been really easy...
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And here is my hex wrench next to the coolant line bolts...
View attachment 30701

I've got a ton of pictures and will post a better, more detailed explanation of what I did.
Hey what size is the Allen key an 8mm? Doing my driver's side oil feed line and need to remove the coolant lines to get the top main coolant hardline off
 
Just a suggestion about that oil drain, I think its fair to say that may be the most difficult thing. How about once you have the turbos out, get a set of bolts the same thread size as those 10mm bolts, cut the heads off and use them like studs and put nuts on the other end. This will allow you to get the gasket on and line the oil drain pipe up in one go, then get a couple of nuts on far easier than the old bolts, then do the new nuts up with a wobble extension.

Any its a while ago but tank you to Toddasaurus for posting all that, very kind of you.
 
Oh don't worry, the stud is out. The dealership got it out. Vice grips weren't working, despite my custom cutting in the stud.

The reason why I'm pulling the turbo is because I can't tap the threads while it's in there, the turbo flange is really hard, along with there being very little room.

New studs are in hand.

Also, just finished cutting down my hex wrench to reach both bolts for the coolant line on the turbo. Gonna pull the turbo coolant line after work in the morning.

View attachment 30728
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@ZyroXZ2 - did you have to move the wiring harness at all to make room for the turbo to come out? Looks like it could get in the way..
what size allen key for those banjo bolts?
 
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