To
@Toddasaurus and anyone else that might run into these issues with exhaust and other problematic fasteners.
Follow all the PB Blaster, Kroil, AT fluid/diesel pre-soaks to penetrate and break down any corrosion leading up to the disassembly; then, have ready some real wax candles and a MAP gas torch for the day of removal. Heat those nuts up real good and jab that candle in there (make sure if you’re doing it from underneath the superheated wax can’t run down your hand, it sucks, bad).
The heat will vaporize and dry out whatever penetrant you’ve used prior, but the wax will maintain its liquid form and wick into the thread spaces, lubricating the fasteners.
I usually hit it with the torch once more and start backing it off. Works like a charm every time. I’m up in the NE so I use this a lot on old rusty stuff from ‘79 Cherokees, old 80s CJs, etc, up to my current and constant struggle with corrosion, Tacoma.
I used this method just yesterday on what I thought would be a trouble free valve cover stud that I twisted the top off of.
It’s a simple but very effective trick. I’ve used it almost every time with out first doing a penetrant pre-soak.
I also source whatever ARP exhaust studs will fit my application beforehand to avoid some of these potential problems in the future. For instance, LS1 ARP exhaust studs are the exact same needed for the Tacoma 1GRFE if installing headers. If any of you guys have some left over studs laying around and a measurement we can cross reference with ARP.
Hope this saves someone some heartache one day.
The thing I’m curious about is if the turbine housing can be ordered from Garrett separately rather than an entire turbo assembly.
I’ve had great success with this stud removal tool if it fits in the area; not so much with the ‘cam style’ remover.
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