Drag/Acceleration The Official 1/4 mile track thread.

Last winter we did a dragy list but dragy times for AWD tend to be faster due to the cooler conditions by about .2. With wmi and brake snip awds are maybe faster on the track.
You can post to the dragy leaderboards.

Sounds good and will do. I plan on getting to a track next spring to see what I can do officially.

And I am a rookie at all of this, so can you explain what “dragy times for AWD tend to be faster due to the cooler conditions” means?
 
Sounds good and will do. I plan on getting to a track next spring to see what I can do officially.

And I am a rookie at all of this, so can you explain what “dragy times for AWD tend to be faster due to the cooler conditions” means?
The car will run better in cold air and AWD tends to have better traction out of the gate so faster 0-60's. Dragy is a GPS device you can buy that will measure the times for you. But I'm not one of the experts here by any stretch.:geek:
 
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The car will run better in cold air and AWD tends to have better traction out of the gate so faster 0-60's. Dragy is a GPS device you can buy that will measure the times for you. But I'm not one of the experts here by any stretch.:geek:

Thanks Billy, and yes I understand both of those points. And again, I preface all of this with I am the first to admit, I have no idea what I am talking about. I am not trying to be argumentative, just simply seeking to understand.

I guess what I am still confused about is why does colder air or AWD make a difference when you are talking about dragy vs a track?

Wouldn’t the air temp tonight on the street, be the same as the air temp tonight at a track? And an AWD car on the street is still an AWD at the track.

I could understand if the overall consensus was that dragys are just inaccurate, and .2 sec faster than what you’re really running, but I don’t understand what temps or AWD has to do with a dragy being faster than at a track.

Maybe it’s because that the temps at a track are just going to be hotter in general because your sitting in the staging line with a hot engine before your run? I could certainly understand that.

Or maybe because a dragy is measuring from when you start moving, and at the track you have to time the lights, which can certainly add .2 (or in my case probably a lot more because I’ve never done it).

Still don’t understand the AWD part though.

Again, not trying to turn this into a pissing match.. just trying to learn from those who know a lot more than me. :)
 
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Last winter we did a dragy list but dragy times for AWD tend to be faster due to the cooler conditions by about .2. With wmi and brake snip awds are maybe faster on the track.
You can post to the dragy leaderboards.

Anyway we can post a how to on best way to get the most out of your 0 to 60 and 1/4 mile. IE sport mode, launch control, traction and stability control off, automatic vs manual gear changing, whats the best way to warm up tires, etc... i bought a dragy and am looking to post times here in texas but im not getting what i think i should be getting with the mods i have. Any help would be great. I am not looking for all the secrets everyone has just a good starter guide for a new guy into racing. Thanks !
 
Thanks Billy, and yes I understand both of those points. And again, I preface all of this with I am the first to admit, I have no idea what I am talking about. I am not trying to be argumentative, just simply seeking to understand.

I guess what I am still confused about is why does colder air or AWD make a difference when you are talking about dragy vs a track?

Wouldn’t the air temp tonight on the street, be the same as the air temp tonight at a track? And an AWD car on the street is still an AWD at the track.

I could understand if the overall consensus was that dragys are just inaccurate, and .2 sec faster than what you’re really running, but I don’t understand what temps or AWD has to do with a dragy being faster than at a track.

Maybe it’s because that the temps at a track are just going to be hotter in general because your sitting in the staging line with a hot engine before your run? I could certainly understand that.

Or maybe because a dragy is measuring from when you start moving, and at the track you have to time the lights, which can certainly add .2 (or in my case probably a lot more because I’ve never done it).

Still don’t understand the AWD part though.

Again, not trying to turn this into a pissing match.. just trying to learn from those who know a lot more than me. :)
Tracks are open in the summer and you sit and wait. 120 IAT is good at the track. 45 degree IAT is good winter dragy. Tracks do prep for great traction. AWDs using stock launch control don't need a track for more traction.
 
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Anyway we can post a how to on best way to get the most out of your 0 to 60 and 1/4 mile. IE sport mode, launch control, traction and stability control off, automatic vs manual gear changing, whats the best way to warm up tires, etc... i bought a dragy and am looking to post times here in texas but im not getting what i think i should be getting with the mods i have. Any help would be great. I am not looking for all the secrets everyone has just a good starter guide for a new guy into racing. Thanks !
What numbers are you getting? What mods? What is the DA?
 
What numbers are you getting? What mods? What is the DA?

Using launch control My 0-60 is 4.8
I have a rwd GT
I have BMS intake w/ custom heat shield wrapped box.
JB4
Denso plugs
BMS occ
Stillen exhaust catback
Tial BOV with adapter
93 octane

(Mods sitting in the garage waiting to go on. UP HFC downpipe kit, AP intercooler, whiteline front and rear sway bars.)

I am on a flat road, no extra weight in car using automatic gear changes in sport mode.
 
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Using launch control My 0-60 is 4.8
I have a rwd GT
I have BMS intake w/ custom heat shield wrapped box.
JB4
Denso plugs
BMS occ
Stillen exhaust catback
93 octane

(Mods sitting in the garage waiting to go on. UP HFC downpipe kit, AP intercooler, whiteline front and rear sway bars.)

I am on a flat road, no extra weight in car using automatic gear changes in sport mode.
4.8 was with map 3 also
 
Tracks are open in the summer and you sit and wait. 120 IAT is good at the track. 45 degree IAT is good winter dragy. Tracks do prep for great traction. AWDs using stock launch control don't need a track for more traction.
That makes sense! Thank you!
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Some cars are just slower, mine runs low 5’s in the best of weather in stock form. I find the awd 19 cars are a bit slower...might be a factory tune revision. What is the peak boost your seeing?
 
That’s right where I would expect boost to be from what I’ve been reading. For me the biggest limitation as being the ultra conservative launch control. I feel like there’s almost a half a second until the car decides to get up and really go. You might want to get your logs checked for timing variations and also advise temps when logging
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
That’s right where I would expect boost to be from what I’ve been reading. For me the biggest limitation as being the ultra conservative launch control. I feel like there’s almost a half a second until the car decides to get up and really go. You might want to get your logs checked for timing variations and also advise temps when logging

What i was hoping for is folks to provide examples of how they launch to make sure im doing the right things. Should i try to launch in second gear so i control some of the spin? Thanks
 
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Using launch control My 0-60 is 4.8
I have a rwd GT
I have BMS intake w/ custom heat shield wrapped box.
JB4
Denso plugs
BMS occ
Stillen exhaust catback
Tial BOV with adapter
93 octane

(Mods sitting in the garage waiting to go on. UP HFC downpipe kit, AP intercooler, whiteline front and rear sway bars.)

I am on a flat road, no extra weight in car using automatic gear changes in sport mode.
Those numbers don’t add up and seems like there is something wrong. Or you’re getting a lot of wheel spin and not noticing. Any extra boost from the JB4 will easily spin the tires in 1st & 2nd gears and probably need to use “boost by gear” to help.

Stock RWD GTs easily run 4.7 and with your mods you should be close to 4sec flat. JB4 will drop 0.3-0.4 on map2 by itself and with intakes & exhaust another 0.2-0.3.

I dropped from 4.8 to 4.6 with just DIY intakes using launch control and I have the heavier GT2. Keep in mind, launch control actually restricts RPM & boost to limit wheel spin, it’s not made to launch harder.

Only other thing I can think of is your ECU is pulling ignition timing because your trying map3 on only 93 octane. Need at least 96 to get full power from map3 or higher. What does your logs shows for ignition 1-6?
 
0-60 is tricky as it relies on traction, so making more power will often mean you run a slower time if you get a little more wheel spin. Use the JB4's boost by gear settings to lower boost in 1st say 5psi to see if that helps.
 
0-60 is tricky as it relies on traction, so making more power will often mean you run a slower time if you get a little more wheel spin. Use the JB4's boost by gear settings to lower boost in 1st say 5psi to see if that helps.

What would be an example of a complete map6 i should start with that i could tweak?
 
Record a log on a map that is working well for you, then using the log transpose those targets over to map6 as a starting point.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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