Spark Plug change tips

Thanks for all the tips!

I was able to successfully swap my plugs without removing the manifold. With a combination of socket swivels and extensions and a lot of patience, it took maybe 1.5-2 hours. Had coil replacement bolts ready to go, but the originals went back in without any problems. A huge help was a little magnetic screwdriver that came with my spark plug gap tool. That made it easy to extract and place the bolts. Putting the coil under the manifold back in was easy after first separating the top and bottom and then putting them back together once in the cylinder.

Overall, not as bad as I feared. I'm sure all of the advance reading helped with the mental preparation. :)
 
Do these changes of plugs and a cold air intake with filters affect or void the warranty with Kia??
 
Got my plugs in today from Amazon and all but 1 have oxidized terminals. Multimeter doesn't even read continuity unless I scrape an area or press the leads in pretty hard. Any tips on how to clean these? I was thinking sand paper, but I see a lot of salt & vinegar suggestions for copper oxidation from a quick Google.

Also strange that the terminal design and insulator is slightly different on the 1 clean plug. The 5 dirty plugs were sold by Amazon, the clean plug was a 3rd party prime seller. All the markings and boxes seem to be the exact same though.
 

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I had the same problem with plugs from Amazon. Denso did have different insulators with different production runs however, I kinda researched and apparently there are lots of counterfeit plugs out there. I didn't get a warm fuzzy feeling so I ordered from a more reliable source.
Denso IKH24 5346 plug discrepancy?
 
I had the same problem with plugs from Amazon. Denso did have different insulators with different production runs however, I kinda researched and apparently there are lots of counterfeit plugs out there. I didn't get a warm fuzzy feeling so I ordered from a more reliable source.
Denso IKH24 5346 plug discrepancy?
Well shoot. Guess I should have searched more. I was thinking my plugs had severely oxidized on the terminals. I went at them pretty good to clean off most of whatever was on there, exposing silver color terminals underneath. What's strange is that coating is not electrically conductive, so I don't see how they would have even worked!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Changed my plugs today with the Densos. I used a 4" C clamp, 5/8 spark plug socket, and feeler gauges to gap them (pictured) - cheaper and more use than paying for one of those screw gappers. I put felt on both ends of the C clamp for better grip and to prevent marring the side electrode. Didn't need to pull apart any coil packs - the tips in OP were accurate about during a half rotation of the mid-pass side pack to fit it under the intake tube.

I used a 6" extension, a universal swivel, and 6" swivel magnetic spark plug socket. I used a 1/4 drive with a 3" extension, universal swivel, and 10mm for the coil pack bolts, which I also replaced with new bolts. The offset 10mm wrench wasn't needed, but I had one just in case. Someone in this thread recommended a bendable extension (basically a tightly wound spring instead of solid bar) and I wasn't a fan of that because it doesn't bend much at all, so didn't use it after trying it.

Took me just over an hour to do them. Torque wrench wasn't clicking even when set to as low as 24nm, so I opted for hand tight + 3/8 turn instead.IMG_20190927_163103.webp
 
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The 6"/150mm magnetic spark plug socket with integrated swivel and extension is the magic bullet for these. Trying to remove and install the Stinger's deep sunk plugs using a standalone 'old school' spark plug socket with an internal rubber grip is like attempting vascular surgery with a golf club.

The magnetic socket holds the plug while lowering it into the well, but releases it easily when removing the assembly after tightening. The integral swivel and extension won't decouple, don't bind at any angle, and provide the necessary length to extend out of the spark plug well. Combined with a universal and another 3/8 extension, you can do any of the six plugs without much difficulty - though #3 is a tight squeeze ... :p

For Canadians looking for a storefront supplier, Princess Auto carries it.

5/8 in. Universal Joint Magnetic Spark Plug Socket | Princess Auto

Also: No difficulty whatsoever with restarting the OEM coil pack bolts - go figure ... o_O
 
The 6"/150mm magnetic spark plug socket with integrated swivel and extension is the magic bullet for these. Trying to remove and install the Stinger's deep sunk plugs using a standalone 'old school' spark plug socket with an internal rubber grip is like attempting vascular surgery with a golf club.

The magnetic socket holds the plug while lowering it into the well, but releases it easily when removing the assembly after tightening. The integral swivel and extension won't decouple, don't bind at any angle, and provide the necessary length to extend out of the spark plug well. Combined with a universal and another 3/8 extension, you can do any of the six plugs without much difficulty - though #3 is a tight squeeze ... :p

For Canadians looking for a storefront supplier, Princess Auto carries it.

5/8 in. Universal Joint Magnetic Spark Plug Socket | Princess Auto

Also: No difficulty whatsoever with restarting the OEM coil pack bolts - go figure ... o_O
Nice tool thx.......but "no difficulty" with CP bolts you you gotta be pull'in my leg. Those little pricks were the biggest PITA for me. Ya go figure.
 
What is the tightening torque spec for the plugs (3.3TT)?
Gap 0.022-0.028" (0.56mm to 0.71mm) seems like a very small gap compared to stock --- see service manual attached --- yes I understand this is performance orientated spec.
 

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What is the tightening torque spec for the plugs (3.3TT)?
Gap 0.022-0.028" (0.56mm to 0.71mm) seems like a very small gap compared to stock --- see service manual attached --- yes I understand this is performance orientated spec.
Not sure about the tightening specs but the standard gaps Kia used caused misfires in my Stinger and many other stock Stingers. Mine varied between 0.032-0.036 which is bad for our boost levels and puts a lot of strain on the coils. Stock ngk plugs regapped to 0.024-0.026 made a lot of people’s cars run better and also allowed for more boost if a chip/tune was a consideration in the future.:thumbup:
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Not sure about the tightening specs but the standard gaps Kia used caused misfires in my Stinger and many other stock Stingers. Mine varied between 0.032-0.036 which is bad for our boost levels and puts a lot of strain on the coils. Stock ngk plugs regapped to 0.024-0.026 made a lot of people’s cars run better and also allowed for more boost if a chip/tune was a consideration in the future.:thumbup:
Thanks, gap explained well, I've got some denso's to replace but no tune yet ... so I'll aim gap at 0.026.
mmm tightening spec .... I'll use the hand tight then add 1/4 turn rule ... then :unsure:
 
I thought the same about the tight plug gap but idle was smoother on the denso's .22 gap, totally stock...
 
Thanks, gap explained well, I've got some denso's to replace but no tune yet ... so I'll aim gap at 0.026.
mmm tightening spec .... I'll use the hand tight then add 1/4 turn rule ... then :unsure:
YW. And if you’re going to put the colder denso plugs in it’s recommended to gap them at 0.022. They will run better and will be ready for extra boost once you’re ready.;) And yes most people I know went with that 1/4 past hand tight and haven’t had any issues.
 
Dont be a goober and mix up plug wires on the driver side. The front plug attaches to a wire that comes over the middle plug and the middle plug attaches to a wire that runs over the front plug that is marked with blue. Dont ask me how I know. 20191211_144220.webp
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yesterday I attempted to swap out my plugs and after about 15 mins I decided to back out. The swivel that I have does not have a shallow enough bend to get to the driver side middle and rear coil bolts. I think once I get them off I will be able to have the correct extension for the plugs. I was thinking of getting a flexible drive socket extension and using that for the coil bolts. I understand that does have issues with applying enough torque though when needed. Has anyone else had issues with their swivels sitting to high and not able to get to the the coil packs?
 
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My hands are way to big to do the "no need to remove the manifold" version of changing the plugs but instead of undoing all the manifold bolts and then lifting the manifold up over 90 degrees (as the torq video shows btw thanks for that video) i just lifted it up where the coils were on the hard to get to side and it gave me enough room to get all 3 out no problems and no need for the swivels, the passenger side were easy (our driver side is on the right) to get to so i did those first.

plug-change01.webp plug-change02.webp
 
Touching anything with the manifold is something that I am really not that comfortable with. The only reason I wanted to even attempt this on my own was seeing a way to do it without having to remove the manifold.
 
Yesterday I attempted to swap out my plugs and after about 15 mins I decided to back out. The swivel that I have does not have a shallow enough bend to get to the driver side middle and rear coil bolts. I think once I get them off I will be able to have the correct extension for the plugs. I was thinking of getting a flexible drive socket extension and using that for the coil bolts. I understand that does have issues with applying enough torque though when needed. Has anyone else had issues with their swivels sitting to high and not able to get to the the coil packs?
You are using 1/4” drive for the coil bolts......right?
 
Touching anything with the manifold is something that I am really not that comfortable with. The only reason I wanted to even attempt this on my own was seeing a way to do it without having to remove the manifold.

You need seriously small hands as well i reckon :)
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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