Race Chip GTS Black Review

Performance aside (Which I don't doubt the JB4 will outdo the RaceChip on on a like-for-like basis), the JB4 is far more tunable. If you are looking for something to just throw in there and forget it with a stoc car, sure, maybe RC is ok. But you can do the same for a JB4 and be able to log things, see what's happening in real time, and make adjustments with ease. When I had questions about my logs and was making my own custom map 6, my emails with Burger were being replied to in the span of minutes, not hours or days. I literally did a pull on my way from work, fired off the logs and emails while I was in line at Chick-fila and was running something better by the time I was pulling off with my food. Also, you don't need to overly mod your car. Hell nearly every car here, is at most just full bolt-ons which in the grand scheme of tuning, isn't heavily modded. It's intakes and exhaust, maybe intercooler, and people are mixing E85 and/or running WMI. If you do decide to mod more later, why not get something that you know can better take advantage of it?

There could be an argument in terms of price but the GTS black sits right about where a pretty loaded JB4 would sit. So if you're going to do that anyway, why not go for the Jb4?
 
Buy it and be happy, but don't expect to even mention it here with out this sort of mindless dogpiling occurring within five minutes.
Your sensitivity to what he says is just as out of place as him persistently plugging his product in others' threads. But at least he's providing some useful information instead of leaving long winded rants about being victimized by JB4 owners.

Will you be okay? Because I promise you, this shit isn't that important. At all.
 
Honestly anything I say is going to come across as biased and disingenuous. There is a reason everyone here runs JB4 or Lap3 and it's not because they've never heard of RaceChip. The FAQ nicely sums up the technical differences.

On something like RC keep the boost settings low and it *should* be fine. Just keep in mind you have no way to monitor knock, air/fuel, fuel trims, so what you're talking about doing is just trying each boost level to see which ones don't damage the motor, lol. Not a good tuning strategy.
o.k. so I am learning more all the time and I have been emailing racechip Germany, since the U.S.A. one gave up on me, as I kept asking more questions and them Stupidly telling me some questions was Proprietary info they can't release, which I was not asking that. So Fck U on that part, Jerks !!
So Germany has been replying and being a bit more transparent, but Still not answering every question I asked, or with some details, but not thoroughly, even though I asked please for detailed replies.
As Terry said above, I verified with a friend I trust as well, that if the Racechip can't monitor knock, which it can not, then it's risky. Also as Terry said, if using the first few maps, likely no worries, but higher ones as boost really gets up there, it's risky, if no feed back.

Germany did reply that their chip is designed to leave the factory safety features in tact and not override those.. So, does that mean if there accidentally is too rich or to lean mixture that gets hazardous to the car, our Stinger's computer will take over and adjust timing or do whatever to stop knock and keep the car safe ?? I honestly don't know that yet ? I know our car can sense knock and adjust timing when using 87 or just a bad gas of some kind, but can it sense to lean mixture and immediately make adjustments overriding the racechip and protect the engine ?
Germany also avoided answering, twice now, my question on how much psi does each map give, approx ?

one of their replies was:
The RaceChip is safe to use, since it does not removes any of the safety parameters of the engine. It works with the tolerance of the engine without risking it.

There's 1000's of these out there and I can't find many serious issues, but a few check engines and many of those were install issues and fixed. Only found one saying there was an engine issue, major oun.
So, likely buying the S model for some boost and extra power/fun is likely safe and good, of which I was only interested in the lower model, as I don't car to beat everyone at the drag strip, but went with gts for the warranty and not for the 6-7th maps... but it's here in delivered package in my foyer and I haven't opened it, and likely am returning it for a full refund, as Tdot has agreed too.
It seems they've designed a good plug and play system, but it's the nervous risk of something going wrong, that's nagging me and will likely send it back.. Just saying it's designed to leave your engines safety protocols in place is o.k. but still uncertain, as I my self do not know if my engines safety protocols will be able to react and stop possible damage if the issue is coming from over boost or dangerous air/fuel mixture ?

JB4 does seem to be worth the value, due to it's features of how diverse it is, how you can input stuff and get feedback, and not just about paying extra for higher maps you can't use.
I see that now, but I know this because of asking lots of questions and trying to learn, and not just because of someone just saying it's the best just get it. I am anal about knowing more, and I didn't know enough to start.

I am temped to keep it and use it only up to map 5 max.. do some cool runs at the strip, make new cool videos beating more V8's and German cars for my youtube channel viewers, make report on it and then sell it over the off season (Canada, not much longer left) and get JB4 next spring... update videos on the diff. etc.. but everyones got me worried my engine will blow up and out $10K...
 
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Of course you don't want a "blown" engine but if I were in the market to choose, I would ask if the factory warranty is important. if so, and you still wanted to decide between the two, jb4 offers more peace of mind in that you have some form of feedback to see if things are running safely.

If the factory warranty is the priority, then you may want to consider not doing either. I went with jb4 and once the logs made sense, I felt fairly confident in the feedback I got and during my service visits, everything was still covered by the factory warranty (of course, the jb4 was taken off prior to going to the dealer).

decisions, decisions.......;)
 
I'll just add my 2 bits here. I've ran a Racechip GTS for a couple of years with no major issues. Generally run it on Map 5 (top of Sport settings), but used in on Map 7 with octane boost when I took it to the drag strip. Only downside I found was reduced spark plug life - I changed to Denso plugs but only got about 35,000 miles on them. At the time I thought that was a short life for plugs, but now I understand that was actually pretty good for a car with a tune on it.

No complaints with my Racechip. Yeah, a jb4 can do a lot more, but I frankly can't be bothered. The Racechip was a really simple install and provided a noticeable increase in performance. Set it, forget it and just drive it.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
My GTS arrived, but my friend who is waaay more mechincally trained and understands this stuff, suggested it maybe o.k. the way it seems to work, but it's still a risk the odd one or odd time to cause an issue and you're cars safety back up may not recognize the issue or may not do so in good time, since the cars safeties are designed to work within it's own design and well, still a risk.
Maybe a small one, so I don't want a risk, so I didn't even open the box and sent it back.
Maybe If I got the lower model with modest boost, it should be much safer and really no risk, but I opted for the one that gives tons of boost and torque more and You know I'll use it if I have it, so ..... JB4 suppose to be the safer way, so maybe next year I'll go for one of those.
Drag season is almost over, so no rush to decide now.
 
Over the weekend I had AEM intakes, a Borla catback, and Denso plugs (gapped to 0.022) installed, along with a RaceChip GTS shortly after. Install was a breeze (hardest part was just figuring out the best way to organize the cables), and the difference is awesome. I'm running map 7 without any issues, so far, such as jerking, loss of power, or any otherwise odd and unwanted 'symptoms.' That said, I will continue to watch out for anything suspicious and lower the map if needed.

Running map 7: the car (3.3 AWD FYI) doesn't feel 'violent' with it's acceleration, or power delivery, as much as it feels effortless. I can mash the pedal at any speed, or from a dig, and the car just flies. I'll hopefully be able to push it further up, for science, to really compare to stock, but for now I'm very pleased with the results. I'm sure the intakes and catback are proving more useful as well running the RaceChip. That said, the shop I had my parts installed at has a dyno, so I will likely be setting up an appointment to see exactly how much power/torque the car is making.

Price: I got the RaceChip + Bluetooth on a Labour Day sale for just over $500CAD after taxes, which is about $400USD, so a fantastic price.

All in all, so far a good experience with RaceChip :thumbup:!
 
Over the weekend I had AEM intakes, a Borla catback, and Denso plugs (gapped to 0.022) installed, along with a RaceChip GTS shortly after. Install was a breeze (hardest part was just figuring out the best way to organize the cables), and the difference is awesome. I'm running map 7 without any issues, so far, such as jerking, loss of power, or any otherwise odd and unwanted 'symptoms.' That said, I will continue to watch out for anything suspicious and lower the map if needed.

Running map 7: the car (3.3 AWD FYI) doesn't feel 'violent' with it's acceleration, or power delivery, as much as it feels effortless. I can mash the pedal at any speed, or from a dig, and the car just flies. I'll hopefully be able to push it further up, for science, to really compare to stock, but for now I'm very pleased with the results. I'm sure the intakes and catback are proving more useful as well running the RaceChip. That said, the shop I had my parts installed at has a dyno, so I will likely be setting up an appointment to see exactly how much power/torque the car is making.

Price: I got the RaceChip + Bluetooth on a Labour Day sale for just over $500CAD after taxes, which is about $400USD, so a fantastic price.

All in all, so far a good experience with RaceChip :thumbup:!
Show us a log so we can see if your engine is happy.
 
Show us a log so we can see if your engine is happy.
Don't have one currently, or a way to log yet, but maybe something I look into in the near future.
 
Honestly anything I say is going to come across as biased and disingenuous. There is a reason everyone here runs JB4 or Lap3 and it's not because they've never heard of RaceChip. The FAQ nicely sums up the technical differences.

On something like RC keep the boost settings low and it *should* be fine. Just keep in mind you have no way to monitor knock, air/fuel, fuel trims, so what you're talking about doing is just trying each boost level to see which ones don't damage the motor, lol. Not a good tuning strategy.
Well, being concerned after learning more, I did send mine back Terry I maybe get a jB4 next season for dragging.. but on a side note, if your lower level tunes work similar to racechip, are they not also kinda risky to harm engines ? If not, please explain why ? If they are bit risky, then will you be taking them off the market ?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Well, being concerned after learning more, I did send mine back Terry I maybe get a jB4 next season for dragging.. but on a side note, if your lower level tunes work similar to racechip, are they not also kinda risky to harm engines ? If not, please explain why ? If they are bit risky, then will you be taking them off the market ?

For our "dumb" tunes like JB+ we dramatically limit how much boost can be added per platform to levels we've determined to be generally low risk, and don't offer them for platforms where we don't believe they are appropriate for use.
 
Curious as to how this plays out. I was looking into the GTS this week. I want reversible moderate tune that is plug and play with nothing more then a plug change and Intakes/ exhaust.

The RC appears to fit that better then the JB4 . As I dont want to tap into exciting wires other then at the plug.
 
Curious as to how this plays out. I was looking into the GTS this week. I want reversible moderate tune that is plug and play with nothing more then a plug change and Intakes/ exhaust.

The RC appears to fit that better then the JB4 . As I dont want to tap into exciting wires other then at the plug.

With the JB4 the minimium connection points are the same as RaceChip. Two map connections. If you want more then attach the optional OBDII connection. If you want yet more attach the optional fuel control connections using the plug and play adapters.
 
I'll have to watch the install videos and compare.
Does the JB4 now come with fuel wire adapters. Also the Bluetooth capability is more then 3 times the price of RC Bluetooth which appears to be built into the unit. I've been reading tons of posts and I don't see myself ever going above JB4 map 2 or RC map 4 .
I just doent have ready access to over 92 octane in my area unless I mix race gas. Which I'm not going to do, or do WMI either.
I want my car to have great longevity and not just be fast.
I've also seen tons of posts in this forum about difficulties getting the JB4 to work properly but I'd guess most of those are people who go past map 4 on it.
I can't find many about RC problems at all. Maybe because it's a milder option that doesn't have the highest mod ability.
I'd love to just order a moderate tune from Lozic but that's outta my price range. ‍
 
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I'll have to watch the install videos and compare.
Does the JB4 now come with fuel wire adapters. Also the Bluetooth capability is more then 3 times the price of RC Bluetooth which appears to be built into the unit. I've been reading tons of posts and I don't see myself ever going above JB4 map 2 or RC map 4 .
I just doent have ready access to over 92 octane in my area unless I mix race gas. Which I'm not going to do, or do WMI either.
I want my car to have great longevity and not just be fast.
I've also seen tons of posts in this forum about difficulties getting the JB4 to work properly but I'd guess most of those are people who go past map 4 on it.
I can't find many about RC problems at all. Maybe because it's a milder option that doesn't have the highest mod ability.
I'd love to just order a moderate tune from Lozic but that's outta my price range. ‍

The JB4 is a tuning platform capable of delivering low 11 second 1/4 mile times. How you use it depends on your specific needs. If you're a set it and forget it buy looking for minimum gains why even get the bluetooth adapter? Just install the two MAP connections and enjoy a nice power bump. And down the road if you want more (needs change over time) it's all there waiting for you under the hood.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The JB4 is a tuning platform capable of delivering low 11 second 1/4 mile times. How you use it depends on your specific needs. If you're a set it and forget it buy looking for minimum gains why even get the bluetooth adapter? Just install the two MAP connections and enjoy a nice power bump. And down the road if you want more (needs change over time) it's all there waiting for you under the hood. Two Map and ObdII connectors enabled what Map does it default too. These are questions I can't seem to get to the bottom of.
Okay so the JB4 is a more modular design that can have bigger upgrade potential. How is the Map changed and or activated if just using the basic plug in method. How much performance is added with that method.
I like the idea that it can be expanded upon . I like the Bluetooth connectivity because with a GT I don't have a boost gauge. With just the Map and obdII connected how is the map chosen or monitored.
 
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Okay so the JB4 is a more modular design that can have bigger upgrade potential. How is the Map changed and or activated if just using the basic plug in method. How much performance is added with that method.
I like the idea that it can be expanded upon . I like the Bluetooth connectivity because with a GT I don't have a boost gauge. With just the Map and obdII connected how is the map chosen or monitored.

It defaults to 3psi over factory which is much boost as we think is safe to run on the platform without adding in OBDII. If you add OBDII you could use a data cable to setup in dash map switching once then change it via the wiper fluid interval setting.

 
It defaults to 3psi over factory which is much boost as we think is safe to run on the platform without adding in OBDII. If you add OBDII you could use a data cable to setup in dash map switching once then change it via the wiper fluid interval setting.

Ah. Okay so there is a way to switch maps without Bluetooth connection.

I also came across your dyno charts which are very helpful in explaining and visualizing the difference in what your tuner is capable of.
This is a very attractive tune here with Intakes and 91 octane and fuel management with map 2. That's really where I think I want to be for a while.

Thanks for the input.
 

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Interesting thread ... I'm actually installing my Racechip GTS black this weekend ... I will report back with my butt dyno results soon after :cool:
Back, installed, works great. Mini review - I have no idea how to describe the "improvement" but there is fkn plenty. With the RC phone app you only get access to 4 default settings (of a possible 7) being (1) OFF, (2) ECO, (3) SPORT and (4) RACE. You can contact them to program more customised settings somehow, I don't have that need, but nice to know. I have the warm-up timer set to 3 minutes (it's pretty warm here) and my chip set to SPORT from the get go. Btw RACE setting was way ott for any of my "normal" road driving. It's bit scary (on the road) and I failed to get decent traction (rwd stinger here) from an auto-hold take off. Have not tried with launch control yet. I already had gapped denso plugs so have experienced no un due effects. Plug n play performance at it's core. Recommended (... but I did get it cheap from a fellow forum member here).
 
Back, installed, works great. Mini review - I have no idea how to describe the "improvement" but there is fkn plenty. With the RC phone app you only get access to 4 default settings (of a possible 7) being (1) OFF, (2) ECO, (3) SPORT and (4) RACE. You can contact them to program more customised settings somehow, I don't have that need, but nice to know. I have the warm-up timer set to 3 minutes (it's pretty warm here) and my chip set to SPORT from the get go. Btw RACE setting was way ott for any of my "normal" road driving. It's bit scary (on the road) and I failed to get decent traction (rwd stinger here) from an auto-hold take off. Have not tried with launch control yet. I already had gapped denso plugs so have experienced no un due effects. Plug n play performance at it's core. Recommended (... but I did get it cheap from a fellow forum member here).
When you open the app, in the bottom right, there is a fine tuning button. This will let you adjust each of the 3 settings (Eco, Sport, Race). I believe the available maps are as follows: Eco 1-3, Sport 4-5, Race 6-7 :thumbup:.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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