Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

Ok gang, a couple of you wanted to hear about the BMS intercooler. Got a log today, but did not do any Dragy testing yet. I do believe this is helping with IAT's. At the start of the pull my IAT was 107 degrees at 37 MPH, and by the time I reached 108 MPH, it had dropped to 93 degrees. Ambient temp was about 86 degrees. After I let up, the temps continue to drop down to 84. This is typically what I experience with the WMI- as soon as you stop pulling, the temps really drop down.

During a recent 0-130mph run (log attached, ambient temp around 82,) the IAT's only go from 98 to 91 degrees, but go back up to 96 degrees by the time I finish the run to 130mph, and that's with meth flowing great. Terry reviewed this earlier log and said "Looks pretty normal to me. IAT isn't much of an indicator of meth flow, you'd want to focus on fuel trims and knock count. Both seem pretty low so I'd assume meth is flowing properly here." I'll work on some dragy testing next. I think the Intercooler is well built and sturdy. Easy install, except it took my a while to figure out the clamp thingy on the driver side, which you have to re-use, so be careful with that. The intercooler is huge compared to stock, and the price is right! Hope that helps!
 

Attachments

I have one. Installed and tested my first ecu/tcu that should have the surge issue. it's raining now so can't go fast but... to my surprise I don't have the surge issue. I do hear the BOV's and intake noises that were mentioned tho. That noise is the boost standby function, And it works very well. Throttle response is immediate with almost no lag. Also (maybe just how I drive) I don't have this light switch 20 psi just from tapping the gas thing. Does it give more boost yes, but light driving I might see 5psi 7psi in were as before I may see 1.7-2.0psi, but that's just like other tunes. Personally I like how it drives, the power and responsiveness are right up my alley. I will tell him to give the option to turn boost standby function off because some people will not like it, but it is useful. It makes your car sound like it's having issues but when you hit the gas trust me there's no problem lol. As for TCU, I have pressure 3 and shifts aren't that hard to me. Only 4th to 3rd downshift is on the harsh/jerky side but not horrible. I can feel it's faster and tighter shifts but not brutal or anything. Idk I'm probably just weird lol. Anyway I haven't really gave it too much gas maybe 60% throttle but it moved and moved nicely. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain in the a.m. I'll probably get to push it a little bit and see what's really good. But for now I like it. I'll still get the ECU with the fix to be sure and I'm deciding if I'm gonna keep boost standby function on, other than that I'm good to go with the tune. Cant wait to see the real power tomorrow tho :sneaky:

Ahh, so far so good. Great, hope for the weather then...
 
Ok gang, a couple of you wanted to hear about the BMS intercooler. Got a log today, but did not do any Dragy testing yet. I do believe this is helping with IAT's. At the start of the pull my IAT was 107 degrees at 37 MPH, and by the time I reached 108 MPH, it had dropped to 93 degrees. Ambient temp was about 86 degrees. After I let up, the temps continue to drop down to 84. This is typically what I experience with the WMI- as soon as you stop pulling, the temps really drop down.

During a recent 0-130mph run (log attached, ambient temp around 82,) the IAT's only go from 98 to 91 degrees, but go back up to 96 degrees by the time I finish the run to 130mph, and that's with meth flowing great. Terry reviewed this earlier log and said "Looks pretty normal to me. IAT isn't much of an indicator of meth flow, you'd want to focus on fuel trims and knock count. Both seem pretty low so I'd assume meth is flowing properly here." I'll work on some dragy testing next. I think the Intercooler is well built and sturdy. Easy install, except it took my a while to figure out the clamp thingy on the driver side, which you have to re-use, so be careful with that. The intercooler is huge compared to stock, and the price is right! Hope that helps!

Logs seems ok. Some oscilating in boost and High Fuel pressure att higher gear. Also no need to run so low AFR. All direct inj fuel cars we run are most happy at around AFR 12.2 at higher torque and leaning out at higher Rpm to 12.5. Maybe yo are at the limit of what fuel you have as h pressure drops on and off and with that also boost or the opposite. Ignition is perfekt and IC seems work very well.

  • How do you blend Meth?
  • What inj nozzle do you have for Meth?
  • What fuel do you run?

Probably you can use JB4 to fine adjust a bit. Go for Bit 1 and put 127 as a start in flat Fuel Bias. Maybe H fuel pressure will be more happy then also. Try that, show a log lets say after 5 runs with engine of between so adaption can take place. Then you can adjust by rpm with lower numbers at lower rpm like start at 120 and higher up with rpm, after 4500 rpm I would say 127
 
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I asked lozic and he said this guy got bangs over 4k rpm and it sounds pretty good
I guess “sounds pretty good” is subjective.
 
Logs seems ok. Some oscilating in boost and High Fuel pressure att higher gear. Also no need to run so low AFR. All direct inj fuel cars we run are most happy at around AFR 12.2 at higher torque and leaning out at higher Rpm to 12.5. Maybe yo are at the limit of what fuel you have as h pressure drops on and off and with that also boost or the opposite. Ignition is perfekt and IC seems work very well.

  • How do you blend Meth?
  • What inj nozzle do you have for Meth?
  • What fuel do you run?

Probably you can use JB4 to fine adjust a bit. Go for Bit 1 and put 127 as a start in flat Fuel Bias. Maybe H fuel pressure will be more happy then also. Try that, show a log lets say after 5 runs with engine of between so adaption can take place. Then you can adjust by rpm with lower numbers at lower rpm like start at 120 and higher up with rpm, after 4500 rpm I would say 127
Blending the Meth myself, 50/50 right now. Running 93 octane. I have the Single BM10 Nozzle. I'll have to look at some of my settings and try your suggestions. thanks for the feedback.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I have one. Installed and tested my first ecu/tcu that should have the surge issue. it's raining now so can't go fast but... to my surprise I don't have the surge issue. I do hear the BOV's and intake noises that were mentioned tho. That noise is the boost standby function, And it works very well. Throttle response is immediate with almost no lag. Also (maybe just how I drive) I don't have this light switch 20 psi just from tapping the gas thing. Does it give more boost yes, but light driving I might see 5psi 7psi in were as before I may see 1.7-2.0psi, but that's just like other tunes. Personally I like how it drives, the power and responsiveness are right up my alley. I will tell him to give the option to turn boost standby function off because some people will not like it, but it is useful. It makes your car sound like it's having issues but when you hit the gas trust me there's no problem lol. As for TCU, I have pressure 3 and shifts aren't that hard to me. Only 4th to 3rd downshift is on the harsh/jerky side but not horrible. I can feel it's faster and tighter shifts but not brutal or anything. Idk I'm probably just weird lol. Anyway I haven't really gave it too much gas maybe 60% throttle but it moved and moved nicely. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain in the a.m. I'll probably get to push it a little bit and see what's really good. But for now I like it. I'll still get the ECU with the fix to be sure and I'm deciding if I'm gonna keep boost standby function on, other than that I'm good to go with the tune. Cant wait to see the real power tomorrow tho :sneaky:
Still learning so forgive my questions. If the boost standby function is off, what impact does that have outside of reducing the noise? Will it slow the throttle response any?
 
I'm still trying to decide - anything definitive out there yet. I don't have JB4 so I'm open to either JB4 + TCU or ECU + TCU. I don't know if I've seen any outright yays or nays for one combo over the other. Ignoring the difference in cost between the JB4 and the ECU tune, where should my focus be?
 
I'm still trying to decide - anything definitive out there yet. I don't have JB4 so I'm open to either JB4 + TCU or ECU + TCU. I don't know if I've seen any outright yays or nays for one combo over the other. Ignoring the difference in cost between the JB4 and the ECU tune, where should my focus be?

Not an expert here and I'm also on the fence but I would say the main advantage the JB4 has over the ECU is configurability. With the JB4 you can dial in settings and have the various maps for given fuel type and mods installed.
 
I asked Lozic about whether the TCU alone (with or without JB4) can remove the torque limitations in gears 1&2. In response, I got:

Although the TCU has a torque limit, it is not a torque limit that affects the power.


Look at the 16 second part.

All 4 wheels are slipping.

So what this tells me is that the ECU alone is responsible for implementing torque limits depending on the gear the TCU is reporting to it. A JB4+TCU will still have torque limits in place. How much this matters is another question altogether.

Is the ECU limiting torque to the wheels with JB4? Does launch control with the TCU tune effectively override the torque limits, but the torque limits can still be felt rolling into the throttle? Do they still have any effect on 0-60 or 1/4 mile times?

I'd like to see a comparison between JB4 only, ECU only, JB4+TCU and ECU+TCU if possible. Same fuel, same model (stinger vs G70), same mods (stock hardware vs intake). Would be difficult to put together but VERY helpful for prospective buyers.
 
I asked Lozic about whether the TCU alone (with or without JB4) can remove the torque limitations in gears 1&2. In response, I got:



So what this tells me is that the ECU alone is responsible for implementing torque limits depending on the gear the TCU is reporting to it. A JB4+TCU will still have torque limits in place. How much this matters is another question altogether.

Is the ECU limiting torque to the wheels with JB4? Does launch control with the TCU tune effectively override the torque limits, but the torque limits can still be felt rolling into the throttle? Do they still have any effect on 0-60 or 1/4 mile times?

I'd like to see a comparison between JB4 only, ECU only, JB4+TCU and ECU+TCU if possible. Same fuel, same model (stinger vs G70), same mods (stock hardware vs intake). Would be difficult to put together but VERY helpful for prospective buyers.

I think stock ECU limits trottle opening, that we can see for some 10ns of a second in logs. Also good to have for safety. With TCU in sport mode you can override all torque limits with launch but not from standing still and just go, then the trottle delay opening makes the limit.
If we didnt have this limit it probably was more fun but not a faster car as it will spin in all wheels.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Would be a great comparison but it should be the same car. As a RWD owner, I don’t think there’s any reason. To switch from JB4. Certainly not at the expense of daily drivability or longevity. As an AWD owner I would think JB4 plus TCU would be as good as Ecu and TCU sans a bit of throttle response. For what it’s worth, I have a BMS pedal tuner and my throttle response is very quick even in the lowest of settings. It’s almost like the difference between comfort and sport mode stock, but adding that on top of sport mode baseline, if that makes any sense, LOL.
 
I'm still trying to decide - anything definitive out there yet. I don't have JB4 so I'm open to either JB4 + TCU or ECU + TCU. I don't know if I've seen any outright yays or nays for one combo over the other. Ignoring the difference in cost between the JB4 and the ECU tune, where should my focus be?
For me the positive for ECU was I only want ro run 93 octane and the lozic 1.4 or 1.5 or Slips 1.2 is better than the JB4 93 octane map 2. Plus easier and cleaner install and removal swap.
 
Yeah I flipped and flopped and just decided to stick with my JB4 for right now. Maybe down the road I will make the jump or if a company can come out with a flash product that would be something I would look at hard since I could just flash myself through the ob2 port
 
Still learning so forgive my questions. If the boost standby function is off, what impact does that have outside of reducing the noise? Will it slow the throttle response any?
It will drive like you've been feeling all along. I'm trying to decide if I want it on my next ecu. After driving today it's a love hate thing lol. Also it can be adjusted to not be as strong. I'll find out more later. He was pretty busy yesterday.
 
Would be a great comparison but it should be the same car. As a RWD owner, I don’t think there’s any reason. To switch from JB4. Certainly not at the expense of daily drivability or longevity. As an AWD owner I would think JB4 plus TCU would be as good as Ecu and TCU sans a bit of throttle response.

That depends on how much performance you want to squeeze out of your tune. The fastest Lozic tuned Stinger ran a sub-3 second 0-60 and sub-11 second quarter mile. We haven't seen numbers like that from any of the JB4 Stingers.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I wonder if there is an option to send in an OEM TCU and have it reprogrammed?
I know you will have some downtime if you don't have a spare TCU.

BUT there seems to be plenty of spares in the community now.
 
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For me the positive for ECU was I only want ro run 93 octane and the lozic 1.4 or 1.5 or Slips 1.2 is better than the JB4 93 octane map 2. Plus easier and cleaner install and removal swap.
This is what I lean a little towards - I don't have any plans on anything beyond what I can get at the pump...which is 92 octane. I forget - you have the TCU tune also?
 
I wonder if there is an option to send in an OEM TCU and have it reprogrammed?
I know you will have some downtime if you don't have a spare TCU.

BUT there seems to be plenty of spares in the community now.

I thought the $950 included a new TCU? I seem to remember that TCUs are one-shot programming. I.e. each TCU module can only be programmed once.
 
YES 950 was with a replacement TCU. you can only flash TCU once?
 
I think stock ECU limits trottle opening, that we can see for some 10ns of a second in logs. Also good to have for safety. With TCU in sport mode you can override all torque limits with launch but not from standing still and just go, then the trottle delay opening makes the limit.
If we didnt have this limit it probably was more fun but not a faster car as it will spin in all wheels.
So do you recommend the TCU with JB4 and was you times better with the tcu or did the car just feel better? Trying to decide if I might give the tcu a try but for $950.00 I want to make sure. I saw your earlier post. Were your brake boosting to get that time?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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