JB4 vs Racechip - 3.3tt

You should do longer WOT pulls. Your logs are hard to read. However by looking at some high boost intervals I would say that your timings are very low. Values are down to 7~8.
But let's wait Terry for a better opinion.

I uploaded the wrong Map5 logs, the Map3 ones should show better info, but take into mind kinda hard to hold WOT for to long without going over 90.

View attachment 37145
 
It started after 1 or 2 weeks of running with it, about 2 gas tanks later. I always run with 3-5 FluidOunces of lucas Octane booster. So equivalent to 95ish octane with 91. I expierenced it at first with number 4, than it happened in 3, and than 2 and than 1 and than it happened with it disabled, after I ripped it out the problem was fixed.

Very strange. Sounds like you had a defective unit or a bad connector since it occurred on map 0 and went away when removed.
 
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I don't know where you got this info from, but from my testing 15oz to a full tank seems to increase the octane by 2 AT MOST. For real octane improvements you should use products like Torco or Boostane.
Independent test showed 15 oz in 12 gallons was 2-3 octane, i think 2.6 if my memory is correct.
 
Independent test showed 15 oz in 12 gallons was 2-3 octane, i think 2.6 if my memory is correct.
Much closer to what I have experienced.
 
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Very strange. Sounds like you had a defective unit or a bad connector since it occurred on map 0 and went away when removed.
That's what Racechip said, than I sent it back and the returned it to me saying "all is well, try again" come to find out it still did it. I wanted a refund so bad..... now it's just a waste of space as I doubt I'll ever get it sold
 
Independent test showed 15 oz in 12 gallons was 2-3 octane, i think 2.6 if my memory is correct.
That's wierd, I used a octane tester after dumping 5 ounces into a full tank and it returned 94.6 octane.. (Which previously didnt have octane booster in it)
 
That's what Racechip said, than I sent it back and the returned it to me saying "all is well, try again" come to find out it still did it. I wanted a refund so bad..... now it's just a waste of space as I doubt I'll ever get it sold

That's pretty poor. I bet they didn't even test it, just visually inspected the connectors and returned it to you.
 
That's pretty poor. I bet they didn't even test it, just visually inspected the connectors and returned it to you.

And thus you have the reason I gave them a review of terrible customer service and quality/reliable products. Besides now knowing JB4 and all its glory, I have seen the light and that light has told me that RaceChips tuning solution is equivalent to just installing 1 of the CAI instead of both. It's like replacing your exhaust but only one of the two pipes. RaceChip as a tuning solution is like trying to eat a peanut butter and jelly sandwhich without bread.
 
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4~5 wide open throttle pulls usually do the trick.
So, do I gotta do that everytime I start the car or just for the map or w.e? What are good numbers?
 
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So, do I gotta do that everytime I start the car or just for the map or w.e? What are good numbers?
Whenever you change the type of fuel or do a mod that affects air flow.
 
So, do I gotta do that everytime I start the car or just for the map or w.e? What are good numbers?

Don't need to do anything. But any time you make a major fuel changes expect peak performance after a few full throttle runs so the ECU and JB4 can both adapt to the fuel change.
 
Interesting comparison: thanks. I have a RaceChip and experienced no issues with it. I've never needed to contact their support so I can't comment on its quality, but it's been a solid upgrade for me: easy install, easy to use, and a significant boost in power. I always run 98 or 100 octane (93-95 AKI in the US) and have re-gapped HKS plugs. I'm still tempted every now and then to get a JB4 for fuel control and OBD data, which I have no doubt would net more safe power, but I don't regret getting the GTS as it was a lot cheaper for me outside the US.
 
Not being a jerk, just curious. How exactly are you "testing" your octane?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
UPDATE: After 1 month of usage with JB4 I can add that their is also another major difference between the two.

Racechip:
Map adjusts throttle response and possibly other things across ALL of the drive modes. I.E. switching between ECO, Comfort, and Sport offers no difference in performance, suspension and other things that these settings change I believe will change as intended.

JB4:
Stock Driving modes retain their throttle response or rather pedal percentage to acceleration ratio.


To clarify, with Racechip I noticed that no matter which mode I chose the car would accelerate as if in Sport mode, however with JB4 I noticed that switching between ECO, Comfort, and Sport offered the same stock acceleration levels to pedal percentage. I.e with Racechip 20% pedal gave me 60%% power in all modes; JB4 acceleration levels to pedal percentage remained stock at, and these numbers are arbitrary and just for example purposes, 20% pedal in ECO gave 40% of peak acceleration, Comfort at 20% gave 50% and Sport gave 60%. *All numbers and % are arbitrary and are just for education purposes*
 
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You should do longer WOT pulls. Your logs are hard to read. However by looking at some high boost intervals I would say that your timings are very low. Values are down to 7~8.
But let's wait Terry for a better opinion.
View attachment 37145


How is this? Attached log
 

Attachments

How is this? Attached log
It is a better log.
Your timings are not very good.
I get similar timings when I use bad fuel.
I would suggest to stick to map2 or use more octane booster, but let's wait for Terry's verdict.
 
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Map adjusts throttle response and possibly other things across ALL of the drive modes. I.E. switching between ECO, Comfort, and Sport offers no difference in performance, suspension and other things that these settings change I believe will change as intended.

I don't know what you were experiencing, but this absolutely isn't the case for me, and I can't even see how it possibly could be the case for any piggy-back. My throttle response is exactly the same as it was stock for all drive modes, regardless of RaceChip map.

If it were even possible for the RaceChip or the JB4 to change throttle response in the way you're suggesting (or be aware of the vehicle's drive modes at all), then why would either need to sell their own separate boxes that perform only this task (RaceChip XLR and BMS Pedal Tuner). Both also require connection to the accelerator pedal (which neither of the piggyback tuning boxes can directly influence).
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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