JB4 vs Racechip - 3.3tt

[Anden L Schmitt]

It is a better log.
Your timings are not very good.
I get similar timings when I use bad fuel.
I would suggest to stick to map2 or use more octane booster, but let's wait for Terry's verdict.

I'll use more Octane booster and see where that gets me, what should I be looking for from my timings?

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

I don't know what you were experiencing, but this absolutely isn't the case for me, and I can't even see how it possibly could be the case for any piggy-back. My throttle response is exactly the same as it was stock for all drive modes, regardless of RaceChip map.

If it were even possible for the RaceChip or the JB4 to change throttle response in the way you're suggesting (or be aware of the vehicle's drive modes at all), then why would either need to sell their own separate boxes that perform only this task (RaceChip XLR and BMS Pedal Tuner). Both also require connection to the accelerator pedal (which neither of the piggyback tuning boxes can directly influence).

Idk man, expierences may vary. All I know is that what I reported is what I got.

 

[xot1]

I'll use more Octane booster and see where that gets me, what should I be looking for from my timings?

They are all over the place and at low values.
I usually this happens when the fuel is bad or when the ECU hasnt adapted to the new fuel.

 

[Toddasaurus]

I find it helpful to also do a log in 3rd gear, go about 15mph, then floor it (but don't kickdown), all the way up until redline, then let off the throttle.

This gives you more resolution with your logs, and is helpful for really looking at AFR's and ignition timing.

Either way, I agree with @xot1, your ignition timing looks like it's varying a little too much, though, it could be much worse. Overall values are a little bit low, but not bad. I'm not seeing big drops other than shift points (which is normal). 1st and 2nd gear look fine, but 3rd gear your getting a couple cylinders losing a few degrees of timing as the rpms climb. It's not too bad though.

 

[xot1]

As a comparison these are good and stable timings:

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

I find it helpful to also do a log in 3rd gear, go about 15mph, then floor it (but don't kickdown), all the way up until redline, then let off the throttle.

This gives you more resolution with your logs, and is helpful for really looking at AFR's and ignition timing.

Either way, I agree with @xot1, your ignition timing looks like it's varying a little too much, though, it could be much worse. Overall values are a little bit low, but not bad. I'm not seeing big drops other than shift points (which is normal). 1st and 2nd gear look fine, but 3rd gear your getting a couple cylinders losing a few degrees of timing as the rpms climb. It's not too bad though.

I'm not able to do that in the gt2 shift by wire system. I've tried everything, legit everything. Itll auto downshift to 2nd

 

[turboAWD]

I'm not able to do that in the gt2 shift by wire system. I've tried everything, legit everything. Itll auto downshift to 2nd

Have you tried turning off traction control (stage 2)?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Have you tried turning off traction control (stage 2)?

This. You need to completely disable traction and stability control, and be in sport mode, and be using the shift paddles to select the gear. Remember not to push the pedal passed the kickdown point. I drive a 2019 G70 Sport. The G70 only has shift by wire. Select 3rd gear, go at least 15 mph, smoothly press the throttle up to the kickdown, but don't click passed it.

Though I suppose there could be differences in ECU and TCU software to where the Stinger always downshifts despite those things.

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

This. You need to completely disable traction and stability control, and be in sport mode, and be using the shift paddles to select the gear. Remember not to push the pedal passed the kickdown point. I drive a 2019 G70 Sport. The G70 only has shift by wire. Select 3rd gear, go at least 15 mph, smoothly press the throttle up to the kickdown, but don't click passed it.

Though I suppose there could be differences in,ECU and TCU software to where the Stinger always downshifts despite those things.

Trust me, I did all of this. What do you mean throttle up to the kickdown but dont click passed it?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Trust me, I did all of this. What do you mean throttle up to the kickdown but dont click passed it?

Correct. Press the pedal until you feel it hit the small stop, but don't push passed it. If you floor the pedal all the way you should feel a little click at the end of the pedal travel - press the pedal up to that point, but not passed the click.

 

[Toddasaurus]

As a comparison these are good and stable timings:

View attachment 37736

Looks beautiful!! I wonder if you got that Mishimoto IC kit, if it would help you keep a tiny bit more boost up top...

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

Correct. Press the pedal until you feel it hit the small stop, but don't push passed it. If you floor the pedal all the way you should feel a little click at the end of the pedal travel - press the pedal up to that point, but not passed the click.

What Is that for anyway?

 

[Tonkabob]

What Is that for anyway?

Makes the car down shift. "Kick down"

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

I did it, I think I had some knocks or turbo oscillation between 5 and 6.5 rpms

 

[Terry@BMS]

Only pressing gas pedal half way but log itself seems solid to me. Some minor timing drops but nothing major.

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

Only pressing gas pedal half way but log itself seems solid to me. Some minor timing drops but nothing major.

View attachment 37772

Did three more pulls, didn't feel any issues. I must of felt me lifting off the pedal

 

[xot1]

Looks beautiful!! I wonder if you got that Mishimoto IC kit, if it would help you keep a tiny bit more boost up top...

I don't think it would.
The boost dropping with RPM is the stock ECU logic.

 

[Toddasaurus]

I don't think it would.
The boost dropping with RPM is the stock ECU logic.

Ah yes, I bet you're right.

 

[Ahawk1968]

Hello Anden, just wanted to mention that the readings from the Oktis-2 octane fuel tester should really be used with caution... Not very accurate. Real octane equipment is easily a few thousand bucks. Just he careful with your conclusions. What is your altitude where you are? Higher altitude can get away with lower octane numbers.

 

[Anden L Schmitt]

Hello Anden, just wanted to mention that the readings from the Oktis-2 octane fuel tester should really be used with caution... Not very accurate. Real octane equipment is easily a few thousand bucks. Just he careful with your conclusions. What is your altitude where you are? Higher altitude can get away with lower octane numbers.

Few hundred above sea level