Do It Yourself Kia Stinger Oil Change

No issue installing an OEM filter here. No different than on the other cars I change oil on that have them - except it's the only one where I have to get underneath the car.
 
No issue installing an OEM filter here. No different than on the other cars I change oil on that have them - except it's the only one where I have to get underneath the car.
Bottom mounted filters probably perform better because of gravity & won't soil the engine bay should a leak occur.
 
Just finished the first oil change at just under 4000 miles on my 2019 GT2 RWD. I thought I'd share some thoughts/techniques/observations.

First, as for the jacking strategy, I decided to do a tire rotation at the same time, so that dictated my method (madness?). I used the Harbor Freight Daytona super duty low profile jack (the yellow one) and started at one of the front jacking points. That got both the front and rear wheels off the ground. I put a wooden stand under the front tire, then placed a jack stand under the rear jacking point and adjusted it just high enough to keep that rear tire off the ground. Then I went to the other side and did the same thing. Now, all four corners were elevated (and later this seemed to alleviate the problem with the outflowing oil stream hitting that cross member).

The oil change itself went pretty much as everyone here has described it. I installed a Fumoto F106SX valve while I was at it.

One thought on the filter: I saw no reason to adjust it to any particular torque setting. Using a flashlight it was easy to see when the cap snugged up against the housing, and I couldn't see how further torquing it would accomplish anything. I made sure it was good and snug with no gap, then left it alone.

As for adding the new oil, I found that six quarts got me just to the bottom of the normal range on the dipstick (after a short drive to warm things up). It looked like seven quarts was going to be too much, but then it dawned on me that 6-⅔ quarts is exactly one-third of 20 quarts (four 5-quart jugs). Sure enough, 6-⅔ brought the level to just below the full line, and now I know that four jugs will get me exactly three oil changes.

Doing the rotation while the girl was up in the air made sense. I did the rear while she was still elevated at all four corners, then brought her down. I then jacked from the rear jacking points to get the front tires off the ground and placed jacks at the front jacking points. It occurred to me later that since I wasn't getting under the car anymore I could have just placed a forward jack stand on one side and used the jack to hold up the other side.

All-in-all it went pretty smoothly, and I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for the tips and tricks.
 
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It looked like seven quarts was going to be too much, but then it dawned on me that 6-⅔ quarts is exactly one-third of 20 quarts (four 5-quart jugs). Sure enough, 6-⅔ brought the level to just below the full line, and now I know that four jugs will get me exactly three oil changes.
That's using your dipstick, Jimmy!
I use the same strategy, at least until there is a measurable consumption of oil between changes, then maybe full 7qts.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Cross-post from Dealership Experience. Any help here?

 
There's no point posting the same question in multiple places. Once is sufficient.
 
Oil was extracted from dipstick tube with a 12V electric pump. It took no less than 7 litres to reach the full mark on the dipstick.

More oil is extracted via pump than drain plug

Probably beating a dead horse here, but I can confirm the same...removed oil through dipstick via vacuum pump and it took exactly 7L to get to the full line on the dipstick.

Also, I saw yesterday that Tork is going to start producing billet oil filter caps:

 
So is the oil extractor useful where you don't have to remove the cover under the car? Is there a way to get to the filter without having to get rid of all those screws holding the cover on? I have heard mixed things about the extractor not getting out as much oil as pulling the drain plug and vice versa.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So is the oil extractor useful where you don't have to remove the cover under the car? Is there a way to get to the filter without having to get rid of all those screws holding the cover on? I have heard mixed things about the extractor not getting out as much oil as pulling the drain plug and vice versa.
Filter requires taking out the one clip and twisting the round plastic part on the front cover. Then you just reach in and it's right there.
 
The filter is located very close to the front.
Therefore below advantages in favour of the extraction method,

*Less work (filter located close to front, whereas drain plug is quite far inside) This also increases safety if your using ramps.
*Less mess.
*More oil is extracted which means less contamination of the fresh oil that gets filled.
 
Thank you to everyone for all the great information; video, guide, part #'s, etc...
 
Buying the pump. Love the idea of not getting up on ramps for all my vehicles....looks so much easier
 
If anyone is looking for a OEM replacement, Amazon has the PG Oil Filter PG99470EX filters on a decent price on there. Wife accidentally bought one as I had one in the cart when I was looking for Napa and Wix. Put it in just to try it out. Looked just like the OEM one. Here it is vs the used Napa Gold in the middle and New Wix on the right. Price was cheap, but I still liked installing the Napa since you didn't have to push so hard to get the felt opening in the surrounds.
PXL_20210402_192350093.webp

Also, finally got to use the Fumoto valve this time around, man that was easy. Also grabbed the hose kit for it as well, and it worked like a champ.

PXL_20210402_185637239.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
What pumps are you guys using?
 
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If anyone is looking for a OEM replacement, Amazon has the PG Oil Filter PG99470EX filters on a decent price on there. Wife accidentally bought one as I had one in the cart when I was looking for Napa and Wix. Put it in just to try it out. Looked just like the OEM one. Here it is vs the used Napa Gold in the middle and New Wix on the right. Price was cheap, but I still liked installing the Napa since you didn't have to push so hard to get the felt opening in the surrounds.
View attachment 57297

Also, finally got to use the Fumoto valve this time around, man that was easy. Also grabbed the hose kit for it as well, and it worked like a champ.

View attachment 57298

what hose kit did you get?? Part number or link?

found this on Amazon
HOSE KIT FOR 3/8" ID NIPPLE FUMOTO VALVES https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JTEOQAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9KJ70HBE9KV4SZ6ZEGFF
 
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I am planning to start changing oil myself instead of having someone else do it. My Stinger is my first new car in many, many years and I would change the oil and filter in my old rigs. The question I have is, are there any zerks or other spots on the Stinger that need regular lubing? My old cars and trucks always had some and I checked those whenever I changed their oil. Is this the same for my Stinger?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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