3.3TT DIY intakes w/Heat shielding drop about 0.2sec off 0-60

It is my opinion that by design the closed top filters will be safer. That's not to say that the reverse conical filters will inevitably fail, it's likely their failure rates are very low. There will be always some risk of manufacturing defect that could affect either filter, or inadequate sizing practices (usually too little CFM). In the grand scheme, if nothing else, if might give you some more piece of mind running a closed top filter. It's likely none of us will have an issue with the open top filters, especially on stock turbos.
 
It is my opinion that by design the closed top filters will be safer. That's not to say that the reverse conical filters will inevitably fail, it's likely their failure rates are very low. There will be always some risk of manufacturing defect that could affect either filter, or inadequate sizing practices (usually too little CFM). In the grand scheme, if nothing else, if might give you some more piece of mind running a closed top filter. It's likely none of us will have an issue with the open top filters, especially on stock turbos.

I'm not sure why stock turbos matter? IMHO, if the glue / attachment method is a manufacturing defect, it might fall off with any turbo pulling 8 psi? I agree, the odds are LOW.

I think a "reverse" open-top filter design, or maybe even cyclinder version, where the little cap diameter is bigger than the flange ID (so even if it falls off, worst case it blocks some of the flow) would be ideal.
 
I'm not sure why stock turbos matter? IMHO, if the glue / attachment method is a manufacturing defect, it might fall off with any turbo pulling 8 psi? I agree, the odds are LOW.

I think a "reverse" open-top filter design, or maybe even cyclinder version, where the little cap diameter is bigger than the flange ID (so even if it falls off, worst case it blocks some of the flow) would be ideal.

I mentioned stock turbos because due to their size and boost pressures they will only allow so much air and velocity, possibly not creating enough force to rip that cap off. On a big turbo high boost car it would easily rip the cap off if the filter was undersized.
 
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If you read some of the information that goes with these photos of failed filters it’s guys running 70mm turbos and huge boost.

There is no way our little turbos are going to rip that cap out.

This topic was brought forward in this thread a while back and it hasn’t dissuaded people from going with these Spectre filters. I’ve yet to hear of one failing on a Stinger and doubt we will.
 
If you read some of the information that goes with these photos of failed filters it’s guys running 70mm turbos and huge boost.

There is no way our little turbos are going to rip that cap out.

This topic was brought forward in this thread a while back and it hasn’t dissuaded people from going with these Spectre filters. I’ve yet to hear of one failing on a Stinger and doubt we will.

I'd like to see actual airflow numbers comparing the two. If its less than 10% difference I wouldn't bother, but if it's 30% then I'd just JBweld the thing tight.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'd like to see actual airflow numbers comparing the two. If its less than 10% difference I wouldn't bother, but if it's 30% then I'd just JBweld the thing tight.

It’s already tight. Its not like Spectre just licks and sticks it on there. I’m assuming the reason it comes off is that big turbo applications warp and twist the filter and it breaks the glue loose.

I'm tempted to buy a new one for $40 and see how much effort it takes me to remove that cap and if twisting the filter causes it to loosen.
 
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@StungBlueGT2,
(I deleted the original post content since it's no longer relevant)

EDIT: I think I found the filter you used. They're considerably larger than the largest AEM filter I can find that is still short enough to fit. I'm wondering how much of a difference that would make for airflow and if it even matters.

EDIT 2: Turns out the Spectre filter isn't that much longer, Spectre just measures the length including the flange, while AEM only measures the length of the filter.

I ended up drawing up the dimensions of the filter on a piece of cardboard and cutting it out to see if it'll fit. Looks like the AEM filter I found will just fit. I ordered it last night, we'll see how it goes.
 
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@StungBlueGT2,
(I deleted the original post content since it's no longer relevant)

EDIT: I think I found the filter you used. They're considerably larger than the largest AEM filter I can find that is still short enough to fit. I'm wondering how much of a difference that would make for airflow and if it even matters.

EDIT 2: Turns out the Spectre filter isn't that much longer, Spectre just measures the length including the flange, while AEM only measures the length of the filter.

I ended up drawing up the dimensions of the filter on a piece of cardboard and cutting it out to see if it'll fit. Looks like the AEM filter I found will just fit. I ordered it last night, we'll see how it goes.
Although the Spectre filter may be slightly larger the extra airflow would probably be unnoticeable and they likely will perform about the same. As long as you got rid of the biggest restriction(airboxes & flat panel filters) the gains with be similar(~20whp+).:thumbup:

Let us know if they do fit and share some pictures when you’re finished.
 
I'll probably grab a couple of the AEM 21-205DK at some point in the near future. Not high on my priority list right now but better safe than sorry.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'll probably grab a couple of the AEM 21-205DK at some point in the near future. Not high on my priority list right now but better safe than sorry.
Just make sure you get a 4" to 3" reducer if you want to use that one. If you'd rather use a straight 3" adapter, you could get the AEM filter I grabbed (linked a couple posts back). It's only 0.1" shorter, but has the 3" flange. :thumbup:. I'll be installing it in the next few days. I'll post pics once it's on.
 
The Spectre filters are 4" flange with 3" adapters. The heat shield fits a 4" flange (despite the amazon description saying 3"). So to use the heat shield I'll need 4" filters and use the adapter rings that came with the Spectre filters.
 
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I added heat shields to my Spectre filters today. These are Spectre 8130 heat shields to go with the 8130 series filters. $20 CAD each on Amazon. They slip under the hose clamp that holds the filter to the pipe and fit really well.

The passenger side shield fits with lots of space but the drivers side is a lot tighter. I had to trim the corner of the shield on the fender side with some metal shears in order to get it to sit where I wanted it so that it won't rub on anything.

Overall though these fit great and should help with heat soak. They should also help pull in more cold air especially with the Big Mouth snorkels.

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It looked like the heat shields were touching some ac lines etc... have you had any issues with that or were you able to mount them off of these lines etc? Thanks!
 
It looked like the heat shields were touching some ac lines etc... have you had any issues with that or were you able to mount them off of these lines etc? Thanks!

They aren’t. Just the angle in the photo. I have some foam tape in there to keep things solid and no rubbing or damage thus far.
 
They aren’t. Just the angle in the photo. I have some foam tape in there to keep things solid and no rubbing or damage thus far.
I considered those shields before I used ThermoTec to make my own shielding and just curious if you noticed a big difference in heat soaking with those shields?

Does the metal on the filters no longer get hot after sitting idle after a few hard runs? Or do you have a JB4 or something to test IAT to see how much the shielding helped?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I considered those shields before I used ThermoTec to make my own shielding and just curious if you noticed a big difference in heat soaking with those shields?

Does the metal on the filters no longer get hot after sitting idle after a few hard runs? Or do you have a JB4 or something to test IAT to see how much the shielding helped?

Just peace of mind! I don’t have anything to test temps but I have checked the filter and it’s cool to the touch. Metal on top is warm but not even close to as hot as the backside of the shields.
 
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with the way the heatshield and filters are, there is not much other way to put those filters in, aiming down and heatshield on the back to block the heat from the engine.
Once I have the jb4 connected, I can most likely track the intake temperature.
 
I took a shot at the DIY intake setup and I'm not I love with the performance of the Spectre heatshields. I tracked it once since then and my intake temps reading from the JB4 were around 175F. That reading was even after I had let the car sit for a bit (hood closed). Ambient temps were around 80F or so. Engine was somewhere around 200F.

Normal street driving logs show my intake temps typically stay around 100-110F. It has been hot as balls here lately so I'm sure these numbers will drop considerably once it cools off.
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Just installed my AEM intakes. Talk about a quick job. Maybe 30 minutes? The stock intake tube has a flexible section so the intakes move around a ton. I definitely need to anchor these down with some kind of brace. In the meantime, I just used some zip ties to hold it close the the cross braces.

The sound is definitely only noticeable when you're heavy on the throttle. I haven't noticed any sound under normal driving condition either on back roads or the highway, which I'm very happy about. :thumbup:

Heat soak is definitely an issue, though. IAT goes up at least 15-20 degrees compared to the stock air boxes after a couple pulls, but just cruising around, I don't see as big of a difference. Maybe 10 degrees max. I'll be looking into creating my own heatshields, or maybe upgrading the intercooler, or both.

The power increase seems much more noticeable at highway speed than at a stop. I can't believe how hard this car pulls when I step on it at 70MPH :D. (Also note that I have a JB4 and run Map 2 daily).

I've read that it takes a least a few pulls for the ECU to relearn the airflow. I've only done about three pulls so far so we'll see if I notice any improvement over the next week.

How long has it taken you guys to really notice the difference in power?
 

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I took a shot at the DIY intake setup and I'm not I love with the performance of the Spectre heatshields. I tracked it once since then and my intake temps reading from the JB4 were around 175F. That reading was even after I had let the car sit for a bit (hood closed). Ambient temps were around 80F or so. Engine was somewhere around 200F.

Normal street driving logs show my intake temps typically stay around 100-110F. It has been hot as balls here lately so I'm sure these numbers will drop considerably once it cools off.
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I have the exact same set up as you do, same orientation but you feel the heat shield aren't doing their job? I am wondering if K&N or BMS would output the same numbers since it is almost the same set up ...
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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