Difference Between 2022 GT-Line and 2022 GT1

[monusa]

This might be an interesting watch as well:

Kind of funny the guy states: "it sounds like a 4cyl".....well, DUH, it is a 4cyl....LOL

 

[sycopupy]

I tested the 2020 GT-Line along with the GT and found the 2.0 to be somewhat underwhelming. It was slow or sluggish, but definitely didn't have the kick of the V6. When I heard that they were going to up the engine to 2.5 and 300 HP, I waited to test before I made a purchase. The 2.5 is noticeably more responsive than the 2.0 whether from dead stop or rolling. On the 2.5 you'll notice when that turbo kicks in. The car just takes off, where as with the 2.0 it keeps building speed, but it doesn't really feel like you've jammed your foot down on the pedal, if you know what I mean. It was enough of a difference to convince me that I didn't absolutely needed to go up to the 3.3 engine.

 

[DTD]

I tested the 2020 GT-Line along with the GT and found the 2.0 to be somewhat underwhelming. It was slow or sluggish, but definitely didn't have the kick of the V6. When I heard that they were going to up the engine to 2.5 and 300 HP, I waited to test before I made a purchase. The 2.5 is noticeably more responsive than the 2.0 whether from dead stop or rolling. On the 2.5 you'll notice when that turbo kicks in. The car just takes off, where as with the 2.0 it keeps building speed, but it doesn't really feel like you've jammed your foot down on the pedal, if you know what I mean. It was enough of a difference to convince me that I didn't absolutely needed to go up to the 3.3 engine.

Thanks for the reply. I was sure the 2.5 would be much quicker than the 2.0. I would prefer tbe 3.3 but I just don't like how the car is packaged with the GT1 over the 21 GT. Plus there is no way I will pay MSRP for a car that once this current supply issue passes will drop the price big time. As others have said when overpaying for the Stinger it is no longer the value it was and was created to be. I sure would like C&D or Motor Trend to instrument the 2.5. I even sent C&D an email but they have not responded and it has been 3 to 4 weeks.

 

[monusa]

I tested the 2020 GT-Line along with the GT and found the 2.0 to be somewhat underwhelming. It was slow or sluggish, but definitely didn't have the kick of the V6. When I heard that they were going to up the engine to 2.5 and 300 HP, I waited to test before I made a purchase. The 2.5 is noticeably more responsive than the 2.0 whether from dead stop or rolling. On the 2.5 you'll notice when that turbo kicks in. The car just takes off, where as with the 2.0 it keeps building speed, but it doesn't really feel like you've jammed your foot down on the pedal, if you know what I mean. It was enough of a difference to convince me that I didn't absolutely needed to go up to the 3.3 engine.

Been waiting a long time for a response like this. I was a big fan of the 2.5 announcement but since i don't have the 2.0 Stinger anymore, it no longer factors in the equation. If I were still on the "fence" when comparing the 2.5 and 3.3, I would still give a big nod to the 2.5T.

I have always believed that the "common statement: "it is just not the V6" was really a play on words because by all grammatical standards, it is NOT a v6. That is why it is called a 4cyl.....

 

[sycopupy]

Thanks for the reply. I was sure the 2.5 would be much quicker than the 2.0. I would prefer tbe 3.3 but I just don't like how the car is packaged with the GT1 over the 21 GT. Plus there is no way I will pay MSRP for a car that once this current supply issue passes will drop the price big time. As others have said when overpaying for the Stinger it is no longer the value it was and was created to be. I sure would like C&D or Motor Trend to instrument the 2.5. I even sent C&D an email but they have not responded and it has been 3 to 4 weeks.

Yes. I had waited for some time for the bigger car mags or content providers to do a review of the 2.5T, but they seem to have the attitude that the 2.5 is just a retread of the 2.0. I can definitely say it's not. When I tested the 2.0, it always felt less than satisfying like the 3.3. The 2.5 OTOH did give me that satisfying feeling. Not to mention finally giving us the LED headlights. That was another big plus along with the larger infotainment screen. Although, you'd think that for a mid to high $30k car, they can give you a interior liftgate release switch at the very least. Minor ding to Kia for nickel and diming the trims.

 

[Carlitosway6852]

I think both the 2022 GT-line and GT1 look nice. My question does anyone have any experience in the performance between these 2 cars. Has anyone here driven them both to really see what the difference is. I have seen what the performance times are supposed to be but I have not actually seen any instrument test of the 2022 GT-line. C&D and Motor trend have articles but neither has instrument tested the car they just say the times that KIA tells everyone. The Sonata N line and the K5 GT have been instrument tested so why not the 2022 GT-line Stinger. The times the car mags give are usually faster than the real world performance especially C&D. The engine tuning is pretty close to what is in the Sonata N-line and the K5 GT just 10 more HP in the Stinger but I think the Stinger is heavier than both.

GT-Line is 4 cylinder 2.5 turbo engine GT is 6cylinder 3.3 twin turbo engine

 

[DTD]

GT-Line is 4 cylinder 2.5 turbo engine GT is 6cylinder 3.3 twin turbo engine

Yes we know this. But since the 2022 GTline has a new 2.5 engine which is much more powerful than the previous 2.0 motor I was looking for people who have driven both the new 2.5 and the 3.3 to see how the new motor compared with the 3.3.

 

[Carlitosway6852]

Yes we know this. But since the 2022 GTline has a new 2.5 engine which is much more powerful than the previous 2.0 motor I was looking for people who have driven both the new 2.5 and the 3.3 to see how the new motor compared with the 3.3.

I work and sell Kia

 

[Carlitosway6852]

the 2.5 is no slouch it has 300hp but the 3.3 has 368hp and you definitely can tell the difference especially in sport mode.

 

[JSolo]

I vaguely recall someone doing a back to back in one of these threads.

The 6 cyl as expected will have more low end grunt and will reach a higher top speed.

The 4 needs higher revs to build power.

BUT, for urban driving, the 4 cyl is plenty fast IMO. I'm not saying that just because I own the 4 cyl. It was a decision I had to make myself. The current price premium for the 6 just wasn't worth it. Also, not the speed demon I once was. If the need for speed resurfaces, i'll just get another bike.

 

[DTD]

the 2.5 is no slouch it has 300hp but the 3.3 has 368hp and you definitely can tell the difference especially in sport mode.

OK that is helpful. You probably don't have any instrument tested numbers on the 2.5 to compare with the 3.3? Not just the numbers Kia puts out actual test run numbers. Right now I would not buy as the price is to bloated.

 

[Carlitosway6852]

OK that is helpful. You probably don't have any instrument tested numbers on the 2.5 to compare with the 3.3? Not just the numbers Kia puts out actual test run numbers. Right now I would not buy as the price is to bloated.

Unfortunately I don't have that information but I will research it for you and get back to you.

 

[hummus]

OK that is helpful. You probably don't have any instrument tested numbers on the 2.5 to compare with the 3.3? Not just the numbers Kia puts out actual test run numbers. Right now I would not buy as the price is to bloated.

Some food for thought in case you weren't aware: some instrumented test numbers can be a misleading way to gauge how a car will perform on the street, especially standing start numbers like 0-60. The magazines that get the best times experiment with different techniques until they get the best measured time, and apparently that can include some pretty abusive things that most owners would not regularly (if ever) do. In the case of Car and Driver, they also use a "roll-out" where they aren't actually measuring from a dead stop but rather after the car has rolled 1 foot (or whatever the distance is).

It can be more useful to look at 5-60 (which is basically 0-60 without the abuse), passing times like 30-50 and 40-70, and I'm personally a fan of quarter mile trap speed, which is a pretty accepted gauge of power to the ground.

Keep in mind in real world driving, you can also tilt things in your favor by staying alert, thinking ahead, and using the paddles to get yourself in the right gear ahead of time. In a short burst, this can be much more effective than relying on transmission logic, where a downshift can be too little, too late.

 

[JSolo]

^^Good points above.

Which results in faster acceleration from a given speed; flooring the pedal or downshifting 2 or 3 gears then flooring? The MT driver in me says the latter, but it's been decades since I last drove an automatic and things have changed much in the last 30 years.

 

[hummus]

^^Good points above.

Which results in faster acceleration from a given speed; flooring the pedal or downshifting 2 or 3 gears then flooring? The MT driver in me says the latter, but it's been decades since I last drove an automatic and things have changed much in the last 30 years.

I am not sure there is an absolute answer to which is faster between those two. Too many variables.

IMO though, assuming one does not go WOT every time they need more acceleration, I think it's even more important how the car behaves at partial throttle. If you're driving 40 mph and the car is in "D", probably 6th or 7th gear, 40-50% throttle is generally not going to result in a big push regardless of engine choice.

On the other hand, if you notice your exit is coming up and you need to get over a few lanes, clicking down to 4th or 3rd ahead of time and then going half throttle will give a much better response. It doesn't all have to be done in one motion; you can leisurely click down to 4th or 3rd as you are cruising and just give it the beans when the moment comes.

 

[JSolo]

^^Still learning the trans in this thing. I wish the gear indicator would always show, rather than D. In an MT one intuitively knows what gear they're in at all times. This auto stuff is confusing.

 

[DTD]

Some food for thought in case you weren't aware: some instrumented test numbers can be a misleading way to gauge how a car will perform on the street, especially standing start numbers like 0-60. The magazines that get the best times experiment with different techniques until they get the best measured time, and apparently that can include some pretty abusive things that most owners would not regularly (if ever) do. In the case of Car and Driver, they also use a "roll-out" where they aren't actually measuring from a dead stop but rather after the car has rolled 1 foot (or whatever the distance is).

It can be more useful to look at 5-60 (which is basically 0-60 without the abuse), passing times like 30-50 and 40-70, and I'm personally a fan of quarter mile trap speed, which is a pretty accepted gauge of power to the ground.

Keep in mind in real world driving, you can also tilt things in your favor by staying alert, thinking ahead, and using the paddles to get yourself in the right gear ahead of time. In a short burst, this can be much more effective than relying on transmission logic, where a downshift can be too little, too late.

Yes I agree with what you are saying 0-60 is not always a good indicator of how fast the car is. The 5-60 is much better it certainly shows the amount of turbo lag. I still would like to see the whole spectrum of full instrument tests on the 2022 GT line.

 

[WRXtoStingerGT]

Just get the 2.5 over the 3.3 since it fits your budget and then overtime modify it. The 2.5 is lighter (especially as a base model) than the 3.3 so perhaps play to that advantage? Get lighter aftermarket wheels, get a lighter aftermarket exhaust, get a nice custom tune for a bit more hp/torque, and cut weight here and there. That's what I would do in your shoes.

 

[DTD]

Just get the 2.5 over the 3.3 since it fits your budget and then overtime modify it. The 2.5 is lighter (especially as a base model) than the 3.3 so perhaps play to that advantage? Get lighter aftermarket wheels, get a lighter aftermarket exhaust, get a nice custom tune for a bit more hp/torque, and cut weight here and there. That's what I would do in your shoes.

Both the Stingers are priced to high in my area at the moment there are more GT2's available not to many Gt lines but they are all a waste of money right now just priced over what they are worth. In my opinion Kia will stop making the Stinger as they just don't sell enough to make an money. I know you don't care if Stinger stopped making them tomorrow. I was really looking at a nice GT but it was red and I don't want another red car. Then Kia wanted to go upscale and they took the sweet spot for the 3.3 away.

 

[MerlintheMad]

using the paddles to get yourself in the right gear ahead of time. In a short burst, this can be much more effective than relying on transmission logic, where a downshift can be too little, too late.

I've experienced too much too early when letting the trans downshift for me.