Burger Tuning JB4 for Kia Stinger!

[ecko04]

Just buy the Canbus module from K8StingerStore that was just released. Cheaper than buying the OEM remote start.
K8SS Canbus Control Module

Yes, cheaper and a ton of functions like the turbo timer, but have you looked at the installation instructions for that thing? It should come with a dedicated support phone number.

Geeze, I was an installer and I’d have to set aside a few sober hours to knock that out. I could only imagine a DIYer. On the flip side the factory remote start is practically plug and play.

Wiring an aftermarket remote start would be easier and less time consuming, and most also have a turbo timer feature that can be enabled through the menu with no additional wiring.

 

[MrSmoofy]

For remote star the CANBUS and the Factory Remote start are junk and way over priced. Be better to get a product like Viper makes Viper SmartStart Products as it inculdes 4G and the ability to use your phone to start your car.

For me remote start is pointless without an app that can control the AC/HEAT would even be nice to turn on ventilated/heated seats from my phone and have the Take Over feature so that when I open the door it doesn't turn off.

Anything less then this in my opinion for remote start is a waste of money.

 

[Whiteybird]

Hi guy's I am back like I left something!

So far so good on the new Denso IKH27 plugs gapped at .024. Been driving the car on Map 2 for the past couple days. Yesterday I did some WOT pulls on Map 2. No signs of misfire, so now I will be moving to Map 8 and test the WMI.

@Terry@BMS I will do a couple map 8 runs without the IAT enabled. Also want to do a couple Map 8 runs with the IAT enabled. I know you told me to put a value of 30 to start. I just want to confirm where I put the value at.

Is that where I put the value of 30? Red arrow highlighted yellow?

If I want to deactivate do I just put 0? Do I need this enable all the time even if I am using Map 2?
View attachment 25199

Did you ever get this answered? And what are the benefits of increasing the values? If this is to squeek out extra power, I need some insight.

 

[Angel]

Did you ever get this answered? And what are the benefits of increasing the values? If this is to squeek out extra power, I need some insight.

No I didn't get an answer yet. Terry or someone with enough knowledge should get on and answer eventually when he gets time. I still don't understand how it works and what it is doing lol.

 

[Whiteybird]

No I didn't get an answer yet. Terry or someone with enough knowledge should get on and answer eventually when he gets time. I still don't understand how it works and what it is doing lol.

I thought I read it spoofed values so you can run more boost. Not 100% sure, would like to know as well.

 

[Angel]

I thought I read it spoofed values so you can run more boost. Not 100% sure, would like to know as well.

Something to that nature but to be honest I don't fully understand it.

How can you run more boost if the "SAFETY BOOST" is set to 20 psi. I believe once the JB4 reads 20 psi it will cut boost.

 

[Jacques]

For remote star the CANBUS and the Factory Remote start are junk and way over priced. Be better to get a product like Viper makes Viper SmartStart Products as it inculdes 4G and the ability to use your phone to start your car.

For me remote start is pointless without an app that can control the AC/HEAT would even be nice to turn on ventilated/heated seats from my phone and have the Take Over feature so that when I open the door it doesn't turn off.

Anything less then this in my opinion for remote start is a waste of money.

Doesn't going the Viper route requires a subscription though?

 

[Whiteybird]

Something to that nature but to be honest I don't fully understand it.

How can you run more boost if the "SAFETY BOOST" is set to 20 psi. I believe once the JB4 reads 20 psi it will cut boost.

True, but simple fix by just changing the safety boost value.

I'm just impatient, and want more power lol.

I've yet to see anybody take advantage of the N2o TMAP value either.........

 

[robz32]

@MrSmoofy @Jacques @ecko04 Please keep the topics in here related to the JB4 only.

 

[Kinvara8017]

True, but simple fix by just changing the safety boost value.

I'm just impatient, and want more power lol.

I've yet to see anybody take advantage of the N2o TMAP value either.........

N2o as in Nitrous? is there a value for that in the JB4?

 

[Angel]

True, but simple fix by just changing the safety boost value.

I'm just impatient, and want more power lol.

I've yet to see anybody take advantage of the N2o TMAP value either.........

Agree, but I don't change things unless the man approves lol....By the men I mean Terry.

I like his blessing before doing things with the JB4. I tend to Fu#k Sh#t up when I change things on electronics.

All the help/advise I have got from Terry has always been helpful.

The one time I blew the 2 plugs I think that just shit that happens. I think there was some air in my meth lines that could have been a contribution to that plus maybe my plugs were already on there way out anyways.

 

[Terry@BMS]

There are lots of settings as the interface is universal for all of our many JB4 applications. Not all settings apply specifically to the Stinger so be sure to only change things we've documented in the Stinger FAQ.

 

[xot1]

Hello @Terry@BMS

I have a problem with my WMI. The pump is always active (making noise and vibrating) while the solenoid is closed, during drive and idle.
What can be the possible cause?
Numerous people tell me that it is the FSB controller that is broken, some other says that it is the pump that is faulty, but it can also be the wiring.
What is your opinion and is there any test I can make to reduce the number of variables?

PS: At the moment I disconnected the pump power because it was getting hot and putting pressure against the solenoid.
PS2: Didn't try WOT because I was afraid that it wouldn't stop spraying.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Hello @Terry@BMS

I have a problem with my WMI. The pump is always active (making noise and vibrating) while the solenoid is closed, during drive and idle.
What can be the possible cause?
Numerous people tell me that it is the FSB controller that is broken, some other says that it is the pump that is faulty, but it can also be the wiring.
What is your opinion and is there any test I can make to reduce the number of variables?

PS: At the moment I disconnected the pump power because it was getting hot and putting pressure against the solenoid.
PS2: Didn't try WOT because I was afraid that it wouldn't stop spraying.

Sounds like a damaged FSB to me also. Email in photos of the FSB board front and back as well as the ground location. If the ground is bad current can kick back when the pump engages and damage the MOSFET over time. We warranty the FSB so can replace it for you but if there is an underlining cause that needs to be corrected or it will just break again eventually.

 

[xot1]

Sounds like a damaged FSB to me also. Email in photos of the FSB board front and back as well as the ground location. If the ground is bad current can kick back when the pump engages and damage the MOSFET over time. We warranty the FSB so can replace it for you but if there is an underlining cause that needs to be corrected or it will just break again eventually.

Thanks for the quick answer.
Can you clarify what you mean by front and back? The top and bottom of the FSB case? (I will take many pictures in the meantime.)

Is it possible to repair it myself (replacing the MOSFET?) ? I don't see myself waiting weeks (shipping takes forever) using Map2~3.

 

[Terry@BMS]

The FSB circuit board itself. Email in the photos and we can discuss the options.

 

[Terry@BMS]

The first 5 differential braces we shipped had the holes in the wrong spot on one of the machined pieces, thanks to a screw up at the machine shop. Finally got the replacements back from powder coating and shipped today. So if you've been waiting for one you should be emailed a tracking number. If not let me now so I can ensure it went out!

 

[Metalmania82]

Turbo timer would be awesome

 

[Whiteybird]

The first 5 differential braces we shipped had the holes in the wrong spot on one of the machined pieces, thanks to a screw up at the machine shop. Finally got the replacements back from powder coating and shipped today. So if you've been waiting for one you should be emailed a tracking number. If not let me now so I can ensure it went out!

View attachment 25273

got tracking for mine yesterday. Looking forward to getting it!

 

[xot1]

The FSB circuit board itself. Email in the photos and we can discuss the options.

Done