Burger Tuning JB4 for Kia Stinger!

[Bigc020107]

That minor boost oscillation that happens sometimes at higher boost levels is just the electronic wastegate gain oscillating. Will happen with any piggyback running a similar target when WGDC deviates too far off the stock tables. It has nothing to do with "tuning" and everything to do with "boost control". There is no fix for it currently other than running a lower boost target. So if it comes up on map3 and bothers you go down to map2. Later when we get direct JB4 EWG control we can turn it off. Also if it comes up at partial throttle turning on FUD bit7 can also help as it lowers boost target in that area. Finally toggling between sport and regular mode can also have an impact as they adjust the pedal to target relationship.

I just installed my jb4 3 days ago. I am experiencing these oscillations on map 1. I can see it on some of my logs. Seems to only be noticable when accelerating at roughly 60-85% throttle. When I go WOT it smooths out. Also, I dont really notice it in sport mode. I still want to post some logs so I can get some assurance that's really what I'm experiencing.

 

[Ek9max]

If it doesn't clip in then harness is defective. Sure you're pushing it all the way in to click in? Just email us we can swap the harness for you if needed. But another quick fix would be a drop of crazy glue.

I emailed and was to to ship my harness in to be repaired. Would I be able to get one shipped to me first? Also would shipping be covered?

Also I'm not sure I'm comfortable with crazy glue. The car dies when this wire falls out of place. I'm not sure I would want that to happen on the highway.....

 

[Ek9max]

Did you actually pull the adapter off and look to see if it was seating properly once it was pushed in? You could literally be millimeters off and it not click. You want to make sure that the prong is the same length as the others before assuming you need a new part. If you truly can push it in and out, and need a new one, you should be able to push it all the way past the point of the other prongs on the harness.

We tried pushing pretty hard. Not sure it would push past the other prongs as the pin home wouldn't allow the wire to go through.

 

[Origins]

Why would you need a new harness? Unless the pin is damaged, looks like you just need to properly install it. Zooming in on the pic it looks like it’s intact, seems like you just need to push it until it’s seated properly (you’ll hear a click).

If that’s the case, I would find a new “technician” friend to do installs.

I'm the other guy that had the JB4 install fine. Our technician friend who has been working on cars and tuning for over 10 years and I did a full check on the pin, it will not seat/click by pushing it in, it was not catching at all. We unscrewed the connector and can see that the pin would not click even when it goes all the way through to the same length as the other wires. It seems the harness is defective.

 

[NICK_KHAR]

Anyone have the fuel wire install location for the 2.0?
Trying to help out a customer but we havent installed locally for a 2.0 yet

Brisk google searches only yield the 3.3

 

[Terry@BMS]

2L fuel wire goes on the white O2 sensor wire.

 

[Terry@BMS]

I emailed and was to to ship my harness in to be repaired. Would I be able to get one shipped to me first? Also would shipping be covered?

We'll have to pick it up via email as I'm not in the loop on the specifics of your situation. PS my email is terry@burgertuning.com... Since you're in Canada it's a bit more complicated but I think we can just send you a harness and have you send faulty one back to our Canadian dealer n54tuning.

 

[Whiteybird]

I'm the other guy that had the JB4 install fine. Our technician friend who has been working on cars and tuning for over 10 years and I did a full check on the pin, it will not seat/click by pushing it in, it was not catching at all. We unscrewed the connector and can see that the pin would not click even when it goes all the way through to the same length as the other wires. It seems the harness is defective.

Ah ok. Sometime's even "technicians" will overlook seemingly small fixes, which is why I suggested ways to fix it. I know it was a chore to get my WMI wires in to the harness with the crowd, so it took effort to have it seat properly. I'm sure BMS and @Terry@BMS will take care of him with the new harness.

 

[Angel]

Any updates on the bracket for the 1 gallon tank? Release date, pics? @Terry@BMS

 

[Terry@BMS]

Any updates on the bracket for the 1 gallon tank? Release date, pics? @Terry@BMS

Details here, we need to add some more photos though: BMS Stealth WMI Bracket for 2018+ KIA Stinger

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Im willing to trade my 2 gallon tank for someones 1 gallon tank if anyone is interested PM me.

 

[snipe99999]

Details here, we need to add some more photos though: BMS Stealth WMI Bracket for 2018+ KIA Stinger

Just ordered the 1 gallon tank with this bracket.

I have a the black 2 gallon BMS tank that's never been used for sale if anyone is interested.

 

[niko]

Details here, we need to add some more photos though: BMS Stealth WMI Bracket for 2018+ KIA Stinger

When we order this do we get everything else include. Like the line going to the engine bay or is that separate

 

[MrSmoofy]

When we order this do we get everything else include. Like the line going to the engine bay or is that separate

Methanol Injection Kit for Kia / Genesis

WMI kit says it comes with 20' of hose.

 

[snipe99999]

When we order this do we get everything else include. Like the line going to the engine bay or is that separate

The base kit that includes the pump, hose, solenoid, wiring, and FSB is ($379). Then you add the tank you want 1 gallon is ($30), then the mounting bracket if you want it ($129), then the nozzle adapter ($99).

I am assuming Terry can tell us about the other option that is $279 on the page with the new bracket. That looks like the pump, 1 gallon tank, and mounting bracket. I think you would still need to purchase the hose, solenoid, wiring, and FSB and other stuff mentioned above but I am sure Terry can elaborate. I am not sure what the benefit is to that second option unless you only needed the pump, bracket and tank.

 

[Terry@BMS]

When we order this do we get everything else include. Like the line going to the engine bay or is that separate

The bracket is just a bracket. Still need a WMI kit which would include the 1 gallon tank, line, electrical, etc. We have lots of options on the site because people like to setup kits different ways. Some want to do their own tank, etc.

 

[turboAWD]

So I looked at some of the new WMI stuff, etc, and read that "water only" *IS* an option. I'm sure it's not as good as methanol - but - is there SOME benefit to running water only? I think with a smaller (BS5 instead of BS10?) nozzle? How much benefit?

I'm asking because, I usually run distilled water in the windshield tank anyway - don't need much else around here.. In which case, I would imagine the fire hazard issue goes away, plus I'm not stockpiling semi-dangerous liquids, and we already buy distilled water weekly anyway.. Which would make the install *SO* much easier - no need to run hoses all the way from the front to the back, watch out for exhaust pipes, take apart interior, etc..

Honestly, if WI (no M) gave around 30-50% of the benefit of WMI, I'd totally want to try it.

Terry - can the jb4 handle water only? Any comments? It's not even the cost, just the reduced complexity / tearing into the car I'm interested in.

 

[STINGER]

@Terry, I am not sure if you have read this thread,

How to launch on boost

by removing the pedal sensor connector I was able to launch the car with boost and do a proper burnout. This was just to test what happens if the ECU was not aware if the brake pedal sensor was disconnected. There are two wires in the ECU that are related to the brake (attached diagram) I am pretty confident its wire number 83 that will do the trick. Would it be possible to route that wire to the JB4 so that we can control turning it on/off from the phone app whenever needed, you can add a safety feature Ex. after certain speed it will turn back on, or after a certain amount of time like 30second incase somebody forgets to re-activate it etc.

 

[Terry@BMS]

So I looked at some of the new WMI stuff, etc, and read that "water only" *IS* an option. I'm sure it's not as good as methanol - but - is there SOME benefit to running water only? I think with a smaller (BS5 instead of BS10?) nozzle? How much benefit?

I'm asking because, I usually run distilled water in the windshield tank anyway - don't need much else around here.. In which case, I would imagine the fire hazard issue goes away, plus I'm not stockpiling semi-dangerous liquids, and we already buy distilled water weekly anyway.. Which would make the install *SO* much easier - no need to run hoses all the way from the front to the back, watch out for exhaust pipes, take apart interior, etc..

Honestly, if WI (no M) gave around 30-50% of the benefit of WMI, I'd totally want to try it.

Terry - can the jb4 handle water only? Any comments? It's not even the cost, just the reduced complexity / tearing into the car I'm interested in.

Water only is doable but need a really small nozzle like a single BM5. Benefit is less but still better than nothing. In some states -20F and below washer fluid has some methanol so that is a good option also.

 

[Revvdmedia]

@Terry, I am not sure if you have read this thread,

How to launch on boost

by removing the pedal sensor connector I was able to launch the car with boost and do a proper burnout. This was just to test what happens if the ECU was not aware if the brake pedal sensor was disconnected. There are two wires in the ECU that are related to the brake (attached diagram) I am pretty confident its wire number 83 that will do the trick. Would it be possible to route that wire to the JB4 so that we can control turning it on/off from the phone app whenever needed, you can add a safety feature Ex. after certain speed it will turn back on, or after a certain amount of time like 30second incase somebody forgets to re-activate it etc.

As neat as that would be, I'm betting bypassing safety features like that might not happen due to liabilities. I could be wrong though.