Where, more exactly within the stock air box, did you find restriction(s)? Thanks!On the intake you want to keep everything good about the stock system, while eliminating the restriction in the airbox. BMS intake FTW.![]()
Where, more exactly within the stock air box, did you find restriction(s)? Thanks!On the intake you want to keep everything good about the stock system, while eliminating the restriction in the airbox. BMS intake FTW.![]()
Where, more exactly within the stock air box, did you find restriction(s)? Thanks!
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I agree that what I experienced when I ran map 3 was I felt those fluctuations on boost and on the car .... at times I will feel that on map 2 when taking off aggressive from the line on like first and second gear .... not sure what it is thou .... all I know is when I run map 0 and do the same I never feel the it ...
When I installed my snorkels, I was surprised by how inhibited the flow was through the bumper into the intake boxes. Not sure if this has been noticed by anyone else.Where, more exactly within the stock air box, did you find restriction(s)? Thanks!
Where is the fud 7 bit located on the app ? I looked and never seen it .... also in the future the JB4 will have EWG control ? I always run map 2 for that reason but I am hoping to run map 3 at the track this summer in order to reach my goal of getting an 11 second passThat minor boost oscillation that happens sometimes at higher boost levels is just the electronic wastegate gain oscillating. Will happen with any piggyback running a similar target when WGDC deviates too far off the stock tables. It has nothing to do with "tuning" and everything to do with "boost control". There is no fix for it currently other than running a lower boost target. So if it comes up on map3 and bothers you go down to map2. Later when we get direct JB4 EWG control we can turn it off. Also if it comes up at partial throttle turning on FUD bit7 can also help as it lowers boost target in that area. Finally toggling between sport and regular mode can also have an impact as they adjust the pedal to target relationship.
Where is the fud 7 bit located on the app ? I looked and never seen it .... also in the future the JB4 will have EWG control ? I always run map 2 for that reason but I am hoping to run map 3 at the track this summer in order to reach my goal of getting an 11 second pass
I only feel this happen in 1st and 2nd gear on map 3. 3rd gear the boost is very steady.That minor boost oscillation that happens sometimes at higher boost levels is just the electronic wastegate gain oscillating. Will happen with any piggyback running a similar target when WGDC deviates too far off the stock tables. It has nothing to do with "tuning" and everything to do with "boost control". There is no fix for it currently other than running a lower boost target. So if it comes up on map3 and bothers you go down to map2. Later when we get direct JB4 EWG control we can turn it off. Also if it comes up at partial throttle turning on FUD bit7 can also help as it lowers boost target in that area. Finally toggling between sport and regular mode can also have an impact as they adjust the pedal to target relationship.
Ok I seen it , thanks ... do I leave the value 0 ? Also is boost safety suppose to be 0 ?FutureUseD, Bits option, and there are 8 on-off options labeled bits 0-7.
Ok I seen it , thanks ... do I leave the value 0 ? Also is boost safety suppose to be 0 ?
Ok got it , thanks. For some reason my boost safety is set at 0 ?? I have not touched it at all ... should I redo the software update ?Only bit7 should be on for the pedal mapping I mentioned earlier. Each bit does something so don't turn on things unless you know what you are doing.
Boost safety should be 20psi (default).
Only bit7 should be on for the pedal mapping I mentioned earlier. Each bit does something so don't turn on things unless you know what you are doing.
Boost safety should be 20psi (default).
I did get the update done last week ... for some reason it’s 0 .... should I change it to 20 or just redo the update .... will it hurt anything if I redo the updated again ? How do know I have the latest update ?Maybe you didn't update to v8 firmware where it's used, just change it to 20.
Went there and firmware version is blank do I need to be connected ? If so what should it say ? So I know when I lookIt's probably not 0, maybe you are not connected when reading it. Anyway change it to 20. Uploading the same firmware you already have would be a waste of time. Check firmware version under user adjustment page.
Maybe you didn't update to v8 firmware where it's used, just change it to 20.