Burger Tuning JB4 for Kia Stinger!

[Terry@BMS]

Doesn't really matter much. If using WMI also might as well run E30 and save the money on race gas. Won't help.

 

[Whiteybird]

Doesn't really matter much. If using WMI also might as well run E30 and save the money on race gas. Won't help.

Awesome, thanks for the advice.

 

[TwistedOrca]

Doesn't really matter much. If using WMI also might as well run E30 and save the money on race gas. Won't help.

Lot's of great follow up and customer service here Terry!! Appreciate the support and help you give everyone on this forum. Good Stuff!

 

[Whiteybird]

Lot's of great follow up and customer service here Terry!! Appreciate the support and help you give everyone on this forum. Good Stuff!

It’s one of the many reasons I purchased a JB4. Appreciate the fact he’s active in the community.

 

[TwistedOrca]

It’s one of the many reasons I purchased a JB4. Appreciate the fact he’s active in the community.

Reason I purchased one as well...

 

[Terry@BMS]

Lot's of great follow up and customer service here Terry!! Appreciate the support and help you give everyone on this forum. Good Stuff!

We're always here to help as best we can...

 

[HTmode]

Does anyone recommends getting the JB4 as their "first mod"?
Or would it be a huge difference installing full bolt-ons first then getting the JB4?

 

[Angel]

Does anyone recommends getting the JB4 as their "first mod"?
Or would it be a huge difference installing full bolt-ons first then getting the JB4?

Makes no difference, is all about personal preference.

I did Afteremarket Wheels and tires 1st intake 2nd, Down Pipe 3rd and muffler delete 4rd, OCC 5th and JB4 6th, BOV 7th, Intercooler 8th.

 

[MrSmoofy]

Makes no difference, is all about personal preference.

I did Afteremarket Wheels and tires 1st intake 2nd, Down Pipe 3rd and muffler delete 4rd, OCC 5th and JB4 6th, BOV 7th, Intercooler 8th.

I'm learning all of this so forgive me but I've seen a lot of confusion.

From what I've read people are calling things Down Pipes when they really are mid pipes. Downpipes remove the factory primary cat's right after the turbo. Those cats have CO2 sensors. When those are removed you will get a CEL light.

Since you have done "Downpipes" do you have a CEL light?

Forgive me like I said I could be wrong about all of this just going by what I've read and trying to learn and understand so that when I'm ready to do many of these things myself I'll know what I'm talking about and doing.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

I'm learning all of this so forgive me but I've seen a lot of confusion.

From what I've read people are calling things Down Pipes when they really are mid pipes. Downpipes remove the factory primary cat's right after the turbo. Those cats have CO2 sensors. When those are removed you will get a CEL light.

Since you have done "Downpipes" do you have a CEL light?

Forgive me like I said I could be wrong about all of this just going by what I've read and trying to learn and understand so that when I'm ready to do many of these things myself I'll know what I'm talking about and doing.

You are right theres a mass confusion with Stinger Owners....

Removing the Dowpipes (primaries) will throw a CEL. You can delete the code but it will eventually come back on and throw your car out of sports mode. If you remove the Midpipes (secondaries) you will not throw any codes.

If you are not in the US i think the jb4 has a feature for a passive delete (would be amazing to use here) but in the US you can not use that feature. You will have to delete the code and restart the car for the CEL to go away (temporarily).

Also, dont remove the primaries ( i have and they are still off). Its a nightmare. Overboosting, lack of back pressure, turbo oscillation and many emails back and forth with terry . Just leave them on. If you really want to remove them wait until LAP3 or BTR release their ECU tunes.

 

[MrSmoofy]

You are right theres a mass confusion with Stinger Owners....

Removing the Dowpipes (primaries) will throw a CEL. You can delete the code but it will eventually come back on and throw your car out of sports mode. If you remove the Midpipes (secondaries) you will not throw any codes.

If you are not in the US i think the jb4 has a feature for a passive delete (would be amazing to use here) but in the US you can not use that feature. You will have to delete the code and restart the car for the CEL to go away (temporarily).

Also, dont remove the primaries ( i have and they are still off). Its a nightmare. Overboosting, lack of back pressure, turbo oscillation and many emails back and forth with terry . Just leave them on. If you really want to remove them wait until LAP3 or BTR release their ECU tunes.

Thank you for the detail. I know I'll get the most hp from the jb4 and intake. The only reason I was considering the pipes was for a more aggressive sound not for the hp

 

[Yemen]

I just installed the JB4 and got a check engine light as soon as I started it up. Is that normal?

 

[Shrikecorp]

Map 3 or higher on 92 octane, negative effects? Reduced effect? Idly curious.

 

[Humberto]

Quick question i was thinking of doing a cat delete for a more aggresive sound, will the check engine will come on and mess up the car performance? Buying a borla exhaust is to expensive

 

[Terry@BMS]

I just installed the JB4 and got a check engine light as soon as I started it up. Is that normal?

Yes if you didn't put ECU to sleep by locking doors and waiting 10 min or disconnecting battery first. Use the JB4 to read/delete codes.

 

[Yemen]

Yes if you didn't put ECU to sleep by locking doors and waiting 10 min or disconnecting battery first. Use the JB4 to read/delete codes.

So if I put the ECU to sleep now the check engine light will leave?

 

[Terry@BMS]

So if I put the ECU to sleep now the check engine light will leave?

Nope, but it will clear itself after a day or so if nothing is wrong. Or you can clear it in the JB4 app ign on, engine off, under codes.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Map 3 or higher on 92 octane, negative effects? Reduced effect? Idly curious.

If you read the guidelines BMS provided on page 1 of the N54 Kia/Hyundai thread(Kia & Hyundai JB4 - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion) you will see all the info you need. Here’s part of the explanation below.

“Map 1: 4psi over stock peak tapering to 2.5psi at high RPM. Default performance map suitable for all 91+ octane fuels.

Map 2: 5psi over stock tapering to 4psi at high RPM. Suggested for 93+ octane fuel.

Map 3: 6psi stock tapering to 5psi at high RPM. Suggested for high quality fuel including unleaded race gas, ethanol mixtures up to 30%, or high quality octane booster like Torco or Boostane.”

If you run more boost than the octane can handle the ECU will reduce the ignition timing and it will drastically reduce performance.

You might be able to run map2 with no problems, but with 92 you should probably run map1 for a few test logs first and work your way up.

 

[Shrikecorp]

If you read the guidelines BMS provided on page 1 of the N54 Kia/Hyundai thread(Kia & Hyundai JB4 - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion) you will see all the info you need. Here’s part of the explanation below.

“Map 1: 4psi over stock peak tapering to 2.5psi at high RPM. Default performance map suitable for all 91+ octane fuels.

Map 2: 5psi over stock tapering to 4psi at high RPM. Suggested for 93+ octane fuel.

Map 3: 6psi stock tapering to 5psi at high RPM. Suggested for high quality fuel including unleaded race gas, ethanol mixtures up to 30%, or high quality octane booster like Torco or Boostane.”

If you run more boost than the octane can handle the ECU will reduce the ignition timing and it will drastically reduce performance.

You might be able to run map2 with no problems, but with 92 you should probably run map1 for a few test logs first and work your way up.

Thanks, succinct explanation much appreciated. I'd read the guidelines but have I a tendency to read "Suggested..." and think, "Suggested...but...". My wrenching experience has been mostly on the bike and its predecessors...this is an entirely different beast.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Thanks, succinct explanation much appreciated. I'd read the guidelines but have I a tendency to read "Suggested..." and think, "Suggested...but...". My wrenching experience has been mostly on the bike and its predecessors...this is an entirely different beast.

Understood and you're not the only one. Luckily that's another advantage of the JB4, live data logging will allow you to "test & tune" your Stinger so you know exactly what works best.

In general if your ignition timing stays stable under full boost your golden. If the timing starts dropping in Map2+ you need more octane for that map and best to drop back to Map1, or add some high quality octane booster. Just keep in mind if the ECU does reduce ignition timing it will take a few WOT runs to have it re-learn the timing advance again once you have the right octane.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!