BMS JB4 Stinger water/meth (WMI) sneak peak

[Cyrus Duong]

Also on a side note, I disconnected the brake light switch plug and launched the car ... got to figure a way to over ride that light switch momentarily to be able to launch at the track. I want to be able to keep up with the Golf R and the RS3's that get me off the line.

Can you explain what you mean by override the brake light switch? Is this for launch control? How did you find out about this?

 

[Whiteybird]

Can you explain what you mean by override the brake light switch? Is this for launch control? How did you find out about this?

There’s a giant thread about it.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Can you explain what you mean by override the brake light switch? Is this for launch control? How did you find out about this?

[URL="https://stingerforum.org/threads/how-to-launch-on-boost.12187/"]How to launch on boost[/URL]

 

[Cyrus Duong]

Oh ok that's what's meant. Using the parking brake. I was confused about words for 'light switch'. Thank you for thread.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Oh ok that's what's meant. Using the parking brake. I was confused about words for 'light switch'. Thank you for thread.

It’s more than just using the parking brake. They are disconnecting the brake switch to spool the turbos to 10-12psi at launch which is amazing, but really only helpful on AWD. I spin my tires easily with only stock boost ~2psi in 1st.

 

[Tonkabob]

Installed my WMI kit last weekend. Took all day Sunday but got to spend the whole day with my Dad which was great. The car ran consistent 12.55 at 114 mph with IAT at 77 degrees. temp at track was 70 degrees. This was full weight 1/2 tank of 94 and mufflers on. My best time ever was 12.46 at 114mph with no mufflers and weight reduction with 104 fuel from the track and the temp was in the 50's before the WMI. I like the consistent runs when hot lapping. Any adjustments I should make in the settings to squeeze some more power out. Also on a side note, I disconnected the brake light switch plug and launched the car on a quiet back road at 12 PSI. OMG it took off like a stabbed rat. I have got to figure a way to over ride that light switch momentarily to be able to launch at the track. I want to be able to keep up with the Golf R and the RS3's that get me off the line.

Did you record your IATs on your 12.4 pre wmi run?

 

[turboAWD]

It’s more than just using the parking brake. They are disconnecting the brake switch to spool the turbos to 10-12psi at launch which is amazing, but really only helpful on AWD. I spin my tires easily with only stock boost ~2psi in 1st.

Yeah, this. Need like a deadman's switch - just enough to disconnect the brake while boosting, let go as soon as you're going.. I had a chance to play a LITTLE yesterday - launch control was like a normal takeoff in my Legacy GT (I had a modified valve body).

 

[C Mandy]

Did you record your IATs on your 12.4 pre wmi run?

IAT was 120 at the line and 93 at the finish. With the WMI it was 75F outside temp and the IAT was 132 at the line and before the 330 mark was at 77

 

[Tonkabob]

IAT was 120 at the line and 93 at the finish. With the WMI it was 75F outside temp and the IAT was 132 at the line and before the 330 mark was at 77

So on average iats where similar with 20 degrees different ambient temps.

 

[Kinvara8017]

a bypass switch is possible... but it is extremely difficult.. Took me about 3 hours of wiring and cleaning to get it working correctly. JUST DO NOT USE IT ON THE STREET! the brake light only come one if your peadal is nearly fully depressed (like 3 days grace depressed). on the track, this trick, pulled a couple fractions off my time.. Be careful though as it also feels like it negates any torque vectoring capabilities of the car and will osscilate down the track...

 

[turboAWD]

Kinvara - so it's not a true "turn it off briefly" mod and the rest of the time you can't tell, but actually affects the overall performance / functionality in general as well? Too bad.. I would definitely not want that, even in exchange for better launches.

 

[Terry@BMS]

a bypass switch is possible... but it is extremely difficult.. Took me about 3 hours of wiring and cleaning to get it working correctly. JUST DO NOT USE IT ON THE STREET! the brake light only come one if your peadal is nearly fully depressed (like 3 days grace depressed). on the track, this trick, pulled a couple fractions off my time.. Be careful though as it also feels like it negates any torque vectoring capabilities of the car and will osscilate down the track...

What are the details? Maybe I can figure out some way to run it through the JB4?

 

[Kinvara8017]

What are the details? Maybe I can figure out some way to run it through the JB4?

Its a 6 pin connector that required a tap in. Ran through 6 seperate switches that tapped into 1 master switch. it was a pain in the ass to make clean.. BUT it works.. Ive had bad experiences with just disconnecting the brake switch. especially when you overshoot staging as you cannot switch to reverse or drive with it unplugged

 

[Terry@BMS]

Ah, so it's a big production. Was hoping we'd find just one low current signal wire going to the ECU or stability control module we could setup the JB4 to interrupt only while brake boosting for example. If it's multiple wires we may need to use a relay board.

If you want to discuss via email I'd love to hear the details and see if we can come up with something viable for you AWD guys. terry@burgertuning.com

 

[Kinvara8017]

Ah, so it's a big production. Was hoping we'd find just one low current signal wire going to the ECU or stability control module we could setup the JB4 to interrupt only while brake boosting for example. If it's multiple wires we may need to use a relay board.

If you want to discuss via email I'd love to hear the details and see if we can come up with something viable for you AWD guys. terry@burgertuning.com

email is on the way me and my friend (an FAA electrical engineer) came up with a few amazing solutions to pull some more out of the car.. would be happy to help with some info

 

[Tonkabob]

I built a quick and easy brake bypass that I could quickly turn off in case they decide to roll you back from the line which happens quite a lot. I saw 7 or 8 PSI 2800 RPM but then the throttle didn't fully open until 20 MPH and was slower overall. So bagged that test. But I'm already doing 1.82,1.83s with no boost and 2450 RPM.

 

[STINGER]

Ah, so it's a big production. Was hoping we'd find just one low current signal wire going to the ECU or stability control module we could setup the JB4 to interrupt only while brake boosting for example. If it's multiple wires we may need to use a relay board.

If you want to discuss via email I'd love to hear the details and see if we can come up with something viable for you AWD guys. terry@burgertuning.com

Actually it might be just that. There are two wires No. 49 & 83 that are related to the brake going to the ECU. It is worth trying to interrupt and see if it works.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Yes I have to try that just to see what happens.

 

[brancky3]

If you want to discuss via email I'd love to hear the details and see if we can come up with something viable for you AWD guys. terry@burgertuning.com

Hey, us RWD guys would appreciate this too! Building boost and spinning is definitely still faster than bogging and waiting an eternity for boost to build. Besides, I think this + 2nd gear launch would be amazing for us.

 

[Kinvara8017]

Hey, us RWD guys would appreciate this too! Building boost and spinning is definitely still faster than bogging and waiting an eternity for boost to build. Besides, I think this + 2nd gear launch would be amazing for us.

Thats a negative.. This would only be fruitful if RWD guys decided to run drag radials on their car and put an exorbent amount of stress on the rear driveline... I would leave that part for the AWD guys