Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

[Jaybone]

All reports so far say yes, but you can Go 1.7bar if you have the fuel to run it.

I have 92 octane I get and can dump in E85 to get E30 but wondering if I need to tell him that for any reason?

 

[GRN D3MÖN 22]

I have 92 octane I get and can dump in E85 to get E30 but wondering if I need to tell him that for any reason?

Yes and ask him what bar setting he suggests. From what people have said I believe E-mixes without CPI tend to not perform as well on high boost. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I don't run either.

 

[Corleone1]

Yes and ask him what bar setting he suggests. From what people have said I believe E-mixes without CPI tend to not perform as well on high boost. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I don't run either.

If people put these money, $2400 in with ECU+TCU then CPI is not to any use. Its so much better to have Meth with only small add of money compared to CPI. Meth is much in for safe and also if you run hard it will lower IAT more than any Intercooler, and also when its needed most at WOT. CPI pump dont like ethanol either so water is the only option in CPI.
I still think that 1.5 bar is more than enough what a tune can make good results for us as the fuel is the limiting factor regardless of who makes the tune. Also boost is not all, I think 1.7 at higher RPM makes no more power as the backpressure always is the thing that killing power, way to restricting hotsides. Probably you have more power with less boost at higher RPM´s. Ignition is also another thing and will be lower as the exhaust temp go up. Maybe things you guys didnt want to hear...

 

[GRN D3MÖN 22]

Its

If people put these money, $2400 in with ECU+TCU then CPI is not to any use. Its so much better to have Meth with only small add of money compared to CPI. Meth is much in for safe and also if you run hard it will lower IAT more than any Intercooler, and also when its needed most at WOT. CPI pump dont like ethanol either so water is the only option in CPI.
I still think that 1.5 bar is more than enough what a tune can make good results for us as the fuel is the limiting factor regardless of who makes the tune. Also boost is not all, I think 1.7 at higher RPM makes no more power as the backpressure always is the thing that killing power, way to restricting hotsides. Probably you have more power with less boost at higher RPM´s. Ignition is also another thing and will be lower as the exhaust temp go up. Maybe things you guys didnt want to hear...

It's not 1.7 at higher rpms it tapers back slowly after 4k. With proper fuel it makes power all the way with best shifts around 5.8-6k. I inquired about this and he assured me anything past 2bar on our cars turbo would make no power and just be absurd. That's why he tunes for up to 1.8bar.

 

[Corleone1]

Its

It's not 1.7 at higher rpms it tapers back slowly after 4k. With proper fuel it makes power all the way with best shifts around 5.8-6k. I inquired about this and he assured me anything past 2bar on our cars turbo would make no power and just be absurd. That's why he tunes for up to 1.8bar.

I should not argue with any of you but I dont agree. To put so much low and middle torque and no more top end power will kill the drivetrain, make heat soak and probably ignition down. To make that stress it will only be maybe faster in first gear until it reach the powerband between gears. Powerband at WOT is between 4.500-6.000, no need to have more torque under that curve.

I dont think it serious to do a tune like that with 1.8 bar to usual people that drive daily driving cars. What cost a gearbox failure and what does it come from? Yes to much torque at to low RPM for maybe 1/10:th of a second to 62 mph or just more wheelspin. There has been gearbox failures with brake snips also but no one wants to talk about it.

Ok, lets respect ones opinions now and leave this. 1.5 bar and a TCU is the right thing to go if I suggest. Take it from me as I have been involved in at least 200 tunes in Dynos, most in GTR where we have retuned several other tunes that have break, gearbox, driveshafts, clutches, front diffs and so on, most of them with stock, small turbos that can build tourque at low Rpm, with bigger turbos that isnt a problem as powercurve will come more equal/rpm.

Lets say I make this post as I care about this community! Over and out!

 

[GRN D3MÖN 22]

I should not argue with any of you but I dont agree. To put so much low and middle torque and no more top end power will kill the drivetrain, make heat soak and probably ignition down. To make that stress it will only be maybe faster in first gear until it reach the powerband between gears. Powerband at WOT is between 4.500-6.000, no need to have more torque under that curve.

I dont think it serious to do a tune like that with 1.8 bar to usual people that drive daily driving cars. What cost a gearbox failure and what does it come from? Yes to much torque at to low RPM for maybe 1/10:th of a second to 62 mph or just more wheelspin. There has been gearbox failures with brake snips also but no one wants to talk about it.

Ok, lets respect ones opinions now and leave this. 1.5 bar and a TCU is the right thing to go if I suggest. Take it from me as I have been involved in at least 200 tunes in Dynos, most in GTR where we have retuned several other tunes that have break, gearbox, driveshafts, clutches, front diffs and so on, most of them with stock, small turbos that can build tourque at low Rpm, with bigger turbos that isnt a problem as powercurve will come more equal/rpm.

Lets say I make this post as I care about this community! Over and out!

Thanks, we all have these concerns which is why I asked the questions. I am only relaying what I was told. I can't say to much but I think he's looked at how and where to make power in our cars and have some longevity. The end result is we'll all have some really fast street cars that perform damn good at the drag strip.

 

[Corleone1]

Thanks, we all have these concerns which is why I asked the questions. I am only relaying what I was told. I can't say to much but I think he's looked at how and where to make power in our cars and have some longevity. The end result is we'll all have some really fast street cars that perform damn good at the drag strip.

Yes, I understand. No worries...

 

[Corleone1]

Lozic TCU + JB4 report

Today I got my TCU with pressure 2, torque control off and -5% in shift rpm and here is the first report, more will follow:

Daily driving:

Very little difference from stock, works good in every run mode. Can notice a slight hard downshift to gear 1 when you let off the gas completely. I think also that TCU+ECU will relearn a bit. But it doesn’t matters, it’s the higher pressure of course and does not bother anyone I think.

Launch in Comfort like a stock launch:

Feels like stock, I didn’t notice 5 psi as Lozic said. I did wait until turbin try to engage so time would have been enough before let go. I will test more.

Wishes: That it would be possible to launch like stock but with some positive boost like 5 Psi before turbin engage. Maybe a bit lower Rpm could help if that is possible from the TCU unit.

Launch in Sport and Sport+ with antispinn and antislip off:

First time I did wait a second to much, probably also to much pedal and boost will go up fast. I did let go and all 4 spun heavy. But I can see in Dragy that time from zero is lower so there is a advantage to could launch like that. Tried a few times more and learn, no more than 2.500 Rpm and then a fast release of brakes. Recommendations is that go slow on pedal so you have time to notice boost and also have time to let brake off.

Wishes: I would like to have some Rpm limit here and also some boost limit in first gear to be safe and not brake anything. I tried to adjust in JB4 settings Map 5 with “max Boost 1st gear” and it gave a bit safety but then when launch is done you have limit boost, I did put in 5 and boost did stay at like 15 after launch compared to 20-21. I tried 10 also and the launch itself is better but to low after launch. It can be something to test for you JB4 guys. I also did test Map 6 and tried to have only stock boost up to 3.000 Rpm by putting zero in “Map 6 Boost” first 4 columns but it didn’t work good. I will test it more as rain did come. If JB4 got a boostcurve/limit per Rpm for 1st gear it is solved.

Actually I have not got Map 6 to be faster than Map 5 at any time. Map 5 is hard coded and work great, even there I don’t think Map 6 can do more for us with all bolt ons. For guys that don’t have all bolt ons I think Map 3 is the fastest one for them and next mod should be TCU if they already have JB4.

Auto shifting at WOT:

Yes, its more firm and faster, no feel like slip anymore. Pressure 2 seems to be a good choice with us with all bolt ons. No need for more as I don’t think shifting would/could be more fast. I can also see in JB4 log that boost don’t drops more than a few Psi when shifting.

With -5% shifting points it shifts at 6.000 Rpm and it helps performance. It will only shift there in Sport and Sport+, in other driving modes it shifts higher.

Wishes: That Lozic put text in their Excel order sheet what they recommend as it can vary with mods and other things. More stock tuning or less bolt ons would benefit with shifts at less Rpm, maybe like 5.700-800. It also then will be easier to make fuel be less limit.

Summary:

Lozic is worth the money if it stays at $950 and works well if… you have the right settings to your mods, how to use the car and goals.

• I will say that pressure 2 will be enough for 95% at this forum.
• Choose shifting points after your mods
• If you already have a JB4 go for TCU and also if you plan to do more mods as it can be adjusted easy. Also a good thing is to have the possibility to change map at phone or wiper with JB4.
• There will be minor difference in performance between JB4 and Lozic Ecu, for most of us
• TCU do good for what any tune you have

What next:

I will try out Comfort and Sport launch and share my findings with you. I also hope if Lozic can develop the launch more and that also JB4 users in future can adjust launch rpm and boost by 1st gear. Then its complete. Would be a very good thing.

No, I am not favoring any vendor, just share my experience as I am old... 63, and also hope that Lozic and Burger read this!

3.58 (0-62 mph) with 1 ft roll out is ok with very light launch. I hope I can improve this and then also go for quarter mile. I hope for 11.5

 

[XGC75]

Looks awesome, thanks for the report!! It's still not clear to me whether the torque limitation is present in gears 1&2 with jb4 and the TCU. Certainly seems by your 0-60 that the issue is solved, but is that only the case with launch control? Is the ECU still limiting torque if rolling on the throttle from low speeds?

 

[Jaybone]

Looks awesome, thanks for the report!! It's still not clear to me whether the torque limitation is present in gears 1&2 with jb4 and the TCU. Certainly seems by your 0-60 that the issue is solved, but is that only the case with launch control? It's the ECU still limiting torque if rolling on the throttle from low speeds?

That is what is going to make or break it for me

 

[Corleone1]

Looks awesome, thanks for the report!! It's still not clear to me whether the torque limitation is present in gears 1&2 with jb4 and the TCU. Certainly seems by your 0-60 that the issue is solved, but is that only the case with launch control? Is the ECU still limiting torque if rolling on the throttle from low speeds?

It feels better from low roll but I will do more testing. Maybe some limits just from starts will be in ECU. I did several runs from just "Auto Hold" and then wot but it takes a while for full boost in 1st, in 2nd its no problem.

 

[Corleone1]

I will do some more logs and then post CSV. But you see shifts is good and boost stays up.

 

[XGC75]

Okay the boost looks good but WTH is going on with ign1... Isn't that pulling 15deg timing on cylinder 1?! Or is that the timing baseline and all remaining cylinders' timing pull is referenced from the baseline?

Not sure I see evidence of torque limitation, either.

 

[Corleone1]

Okay the boost looks good but WTH is going on with ign1... Isn't that pulling 15deg timing on cylinder 1?! Or is that the timing baseline and all remaining cylinders' timing pull is referenced from the baseline?

Not sure I see evidence of torque limitation, either.

No, no. Its baseline in Ign 1 and from that it pulls ign that you see in Cyl 2-6. Baseline ignition is the same in Jb4 logged Lozic maps. Also boost has to drop a bit at shift rpm, otherwise slower perfromance. I have tst so many boost setting that I cannot count anymore. Lower boost at higher rpm will make to much turbo/turbin backpressure so it want give mor power, just more heat and more boost but... less power.

About ignition, it seems that we all can have some low degrees ign pulls even with stock map. I think it can be mechanical noise also that comes with higher cylinder pressure. In GTR we measure if its real knocks or just noise.

 

[Jaybone]

Speaking of which I have cylinder 3 that pulls 0.8 degrees a little in each gear no matter what I do!! I could run 105 octane and it doesn't go away. Thoughts?

 

[XGC75]

No, no. Its baseline in Ign 1 and from that it pulls ign that you see in Cyl 2-6. Baseline ignition is the same in Jb4 logged Lozic maps. Also boost has to drop a bit at shift rpm, otherwise slower perfromance. I have tst so many boost setting that I cannot count anymore. Lower boost at higher rpm will make to much turbo/turbin backpressure so it want give mor power, just more heat and more boost but... less power.

About ignition, it seems that we all can have some low degrees ign pulls even with stock map. I think it can be mechanical noise also that comes with higher cylinder pressure. In GTR we measure if its real knocks or just noise.

Got it, thanks! I figured that may be the case.

Speaking of which I have cylinder 3 that pulls 0.8 degrees a little in each gear no matter what I do!! I could run 105 octane and it doesn't go away. Thoughts?

Up to 2 degrees of timing is fine. Usually it's the car reacting to air temp/pressure/humidity. Fuel problems would show 4+ degrees of timing pull.

 

[Corleone1]

Got it, thanks! I figured that may be the case.

Up to 2 degrees of timing is fine. Usually it's the car reacting to air temp/pressure/humidity. Fuel problems would show 4+ degrees of timing pull.

A tune in ECU can be better if the tuner can scale knock tables but its really important to do it right. Mechanical noise can be different of what mods you have.
Again in GTR when we go for better pistons mechanical noise will increase a lot and still it no knocks.

 

[Bull dog]

Any updates with the ECU / TCU performance

 

[GRN D3MÖN 22]

Any updates with the ECU / TCU performance

I have one. Installed and tested my first ecu/tcu that should have the surge issue. it's raining now so can't go fast but... to my surprise I don't have the surge issue. I do hear the BOV's and intake noises that were mentioned tho. That noise is the boost standby function, And it works very well. Throttle response is immediate with almost no lag. Also (maybe just how I drive) I don't have this light switch 20 psi just from tapping the gas thing. Does it give more boost yes, but light driving I might see 5psi 7psi in were as before I may see 1.7-2.0psi, but that's just like other tunes. Personally I like how it drives, the power and responsiveness are right up my alley. I will tell him to give the option to turn boost standby function off because some people will not like it, but it is useful. It makes your car sound like it's having issues but when you hit the gas trust me there's no problem lol. As for TCU, I have pressure 3 and shifts aren't that hard to me. Only 4th to 3rd downshift is on the harsh/jerky side but not horrible. I can feel it's faster and tighter shifts but not brutal or anything. Idk I'm probably just weird lol. Anyway I haven't really gave it too much gas maybe 60% throttle but it moved and moved nicely. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain in the a.m. I'll probably get to push it a little bit and see what's really good. But for now I like it. I'll still get the ECU with the fix to be sure and I'm deciding if I'm gonna keep boost standby function on, other than that I'm good to go with the tune. Cant wait to see the real power tomorrow tho

 

[Bull dog]

I have one. Installed and tested my first ecu/tcu that should have the surge issue. it's raining now so can't go fast but... to my surprise I don't have the surge issue. I do hear the BOV's and intake noises that were mentioned tho. That noise is the boost standby function, And it works very well. Throttle response is immediate with almost no lag. Also (maybe just how I drive) I don't have this light switch 20 psi just from tapping the gas thing. Does it give more boost yes, but light driving I might see 5psi 7psi in were as before I may see 1.7-2.0psi, but that's just like other tunes. Personally I like how it drives, the power and responsiveness are right up my alley. I will tell him to give the option to turn boost standby function off because some people will not like it, but it is useful. It makes your car sound like it's having issues but when you hit the gas trust me there's no problem lol. As for TCU, I have pressure 3 and shifts aren't that hard to me. Only 4th to 3rd downshift is on the harsh/jerky side but not horrible. I can feel it's faster and tighter shifts but not brutal or anything. Idk I'm probably just weird lol. Anyway I haven't really gave it too much gas maybe 60% throttle but it moved and moved nicely. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain in the a.m. I'll probably get to push it a little bit and see what's really good. But for now I like it. I'll still get the ECU with the fix to be sure and I'm deciding if I'm gonna keep boost standby function on, other than that I'm good to go with the tune. Cant wait to see the real power tomorrow tho

Looking forward to hearing how it does