JB4 Map 3 log check

[xRagee23]

I agree with @StingertimeNC that map2 was bad. If I could make a recommendation it would be this....
Methanol...
It's the only safe way to increase octane and get the benefits of cooling your charge temps. You will be able to go from 4psi over stock to 6 or 7 conservatively. Running Map7 does wonders for the engine too like cleaning the valves. GDI engines don't get the benefit of gasoline cleaning the valves, so the Meth does a great job at that. It's a win, win, win. Octane increase, Boost increase, Cleaner valves, Cooler charge temps. The kit is probably less than what it cost for an exhaust system.
If your all in, then an IC should be on your bucket list and at a minimum a Cat Back system.

I was thinking of installing an Inter cooler but idk if it will fit the g80 sport. The injen intakes I have are for a Kia stinger and are not a perfect fit. The intakes do not reach the vibramounts needed to bolt down the intakes so I don’t know if the Inter cooler would also be a perfect fit.

 

[xRagee23]

So the numbers 4.5 and 5.3 for cylinder 5 and 6 what do they mean exactly? I’m still trying to learn what all the numbers mean. Since they are ignition I’m guessing it’s how many degrees the cylinder advances or retards timing?

I agree with @StingertimeNC that map2 was bad. If I could make a recommendation it would be this....
Methanol...
It's the only safe way to increase octane and get the benefits of cooling your charge temps. You will be able to go from 4psi over stock to 6 or 7 conservatively. Running Map7 does wonders for the engine too like cleaning the valves. GDI engines don't get the benefit of gasoline cleaning the valves, so the Meth does a great job at that. It's a win, win, win. Octane increase, Boost increase, Cleaner valves, Cooler charge temps. The kit is probably less than what it cost for an exhaust system.
If your all in, then an IC should be on your bucket list and at a minimum a Cat Back system.

So the numbers 4.5 and 5.3 for cylinder 5 and 6 what do they mean exactly? I’m still trying to learn what all the numbers mean. Since they are ignition I’m guessing it’s how many degrees the cylinder advances or retards timing?

 

[StingertimeNC]

Better question for AWDGT2, but I believe it is timing deviation. if it's 0 then it's perfect, the bigger the number, the worse it is. Either spark plugs or bad gas, or both. Others can elaborate.

 

[Baluchitherium4]

What is an acceptable amount of timing retard in ignition 2-6? 3 or less?

 

[AWDGT2]

The higher the number the more timing is being pulled. Cars with individual coil packs like we have, have the ability to retard individual cylinders. Timing in ANY car is critical and sets the heartbeat for any engine. Manufacturers set timing, but todays cars have variable timing. What that means is if the car is excessively hot, running poor fuel, has a damaged or weak plug the car will retard the timing to save itself. In those terms, I'm referring to the engines ability to detect "knock". Knock will destroy an engine before you could lift the pedal up. For a detailed explanation of what "knock" or "ping" is grab a cup of your favorite beverage and google it. Just know it's bad, and if you're pulling 5 to 6 degrees there is something wrong.
1. Engine excessive heat
2. Bad gap
3. Bad plugs
4. Not enough Octane
or a combination of all.
When tuning this platform, BMS recommendation is to keep it under 3.5 degrees. If you try and tune for 0 deviations, you will leave horsepower on the table. In other words you can push the motor with more boost until it reaches it's limit, then back it off just a hair for a good solid tune.

 

[Travis Wills]

What AWDGT2 has said is all great advice.

I have a Stinger running just the JB4, AP intercooler, VT snorkels, stock airbox, and E28(from 93 Octane). I am able to run Map3 very well with this setup even with some higher IATs.

The biggest concern I have in your data is that you are pulling timing even in Map1 with really low IATs(77 degrees F). That alone is really bad. I pull almost no timing at all even with 107 degrees F IATs in Map3 with EWG settings.

The only thing I can think of is to reset your ECU. I was seeing significant timing corrections before and then I reset my ECU and they all went to basically zero. Try that and then drive around a bit before you do your first pulls. If that doesn't work then WMI is probably going to be the only thing that helps.

 

[xRagee23]

What AWDGT2 has said is all great advice.

I have a Stinger running just the JB4, AP intercooler, VT snorkels, stock airbox, and E28(from 93 Octane). I am able to run Map3 very well with this setup even with some higher IATs.

The biggest concern I have in your data is that you are pulling timing even in Map1 with really low IATs(77 degrees F). That alone is really bad. I pull almost no timing at all even with 107 degrees F IATs in Map3 with EWG settings.

The only thing I can think of is to reset your ECU. I was seeing significant timing corrections before and then I reset my ECU and they all went to basically zero. Try that and then drive around a bit before you do your first pulls. If that doesn't work then WMI is probably going to be the only thing that helps.

How would I reset the ECU?

 

[Travis Wills]

How would I reset the ECU?

Close and lock all of the doors. Disconnect the battery for 10 to 15 minutes with the key away from the vehicle. Reconnect the battery and drive around a bit before doing any pulls.

 

[xRagee23]

Close and lock all of the doors. Disconnect the battery for 10 to 15 minutes with the key away from the vehicle. Reconnect the battery and drive around a bit before doing any pulls.

Okay thank you. Another question will the plugs being off even .001 cause this? I’m going to double check gaps later today just wondering.

 

[Travis Wills]

Okay thank you. Another question will the plugs being off even .001 cause this? I’m going to double check gaps later today just wondering.

No, not unless you are trying to best AWDGT2’s times. In map 1 it shouldn’t matter at all what they are as long as they are all close to the same for each cylinder.

I left my HKS plugs at .026-.028 with both of my cars without any issue at all.

 

[xRagee23]

No, not unless you are trying to best AWDGT2’s times. In map 1 it shouldn’t matter at all what they are as long as they are all close to the same for each cylinder.

I left my HKS plugs at .026-.028 with both of my cars without any issue at all.

So that should narrow it down to an ECU issue or an octane issue correct?

 

[Travis Wills]

So that should narrow it down to an ECU issue or an octane issue correct?

No, that will simply reset the ECU so that it “learns” how the car is operating with the current fuel that is in it. When you change to use more Ethanol the car may still be accustomed to old habits. This can force it to relearn those habits.

It won’t tell you if there is an issue anywhere. It just simply relearns how the car is currently operating.

I reset my ECU every time I refill my tank. It probably isn’t necessary but that is what I do.

 

[xRagee23]

No, that will simply reset the ECU so that it “learns” how the car is operating with the current fuel that is in it. When you change to use more Ethanol the car may still be accustomed to old habits. This can force it to relearn those habits.

It won’t tell you if there is an issue anywhere. It just simply relearns how the car is currently operating.

I reset my ECU every time I refill my tank. It probably isn’t necessary but that is what I do.

Oh okay that makes sense. Thanks I will try resetting see if that fixes the issue.

 

[StingertimeNC]

Travis and or Darrin, I’m picking up some
Knowledge here too. So, if timing is being pulled, that’s to protect against knock, correct? Terry reviewed a recent log of mine, So did Darrin, and Terry said “focus on Trims and knock count, and both seem
Pretty low, so things appear to be running well. “. I assume because I had little to no timing being pulled, that’s why he said knock count is low? Or is there another parameter in the log to see that?

 

[xRagee23]

After I reset the ECU do I drive around with the car in map 0 or map 1 as the car relearns?

 

[Jaybone]

What AWDGT2 has said is all great advice.

I have a Stinger running just the JB4, AP intercooler, VT snorkels, stock airbox, and E28(from 93 Octane). I am able to run Map3 very well with this setup even with some higher IATs.

The biggest concern I have in your data is that you are pulling timing even in Map1 with really low IATs(77 degrees F). That alone is really bad. I pull almost no timing at all even with 107 degrees F IATs in Map3 with EWG settings.

The only thing I can think of is to reset your ECU. I was seeing significant timing corrections before and then I reset my ECU and they all went to basically zero. Try that and then drive around a bit before you do your first pulls. If that doesn't work then WMI is probably going to be the only thing that helps.

How is your fuel system not crashing with that high of E85? Your showing E35 mix

 

[Jaybone]

After I reset the ECU do I drive around with the car in map 0 or map 1 as the car relearns?

Yes it will re learn and adjust doesn't matter the map either one is fine

 

[ChaneRZ]

@Travis Wills , do you really reset the ecu after every fill up? That’s interesting…

 

[xRagee23]

Here’s a map 1 pull 1-3 gear after the ECU reset. The highest value I see is 4.5 when I initially start flooring the pedal. After that the highest is goes is 0.8

 

[ChaneRZ]

Much better compare to your previous logs.