Wheel/size/offset and tire/size/profile...can be confusing.

I should say the more important goal is fewer problems. Would I be better off just using the +35's in the front and +45 in the back?
^^^ What @RogueIV said: you're apparently doing what I used to do, reverse how offset works: think of a center line in the width of the wheel, and offset pushes more of the wheel toward the hub/brakes/suspension, i.e. the barrel of the wheel has less on the outside and more on the inside. (It is possible to have "negative offset", especially with widebody that uses a deep dish wheel where most of the barrel is beyond the spokes.) So, a big offset number means that the inner rim is getting closer to the hub/brakes/suspension, and the outer rim (assuming equal width - squared - all around) is looking more recessed into the wheel well (undesirable to most people, I believe, since recessed wheels lose the wider stance look).

That's why I was saying that you will want/need some spacers to push the rear wheels out toward the edge of the wheel well to look the same (flush or close to it) as the front wheels. In those pics I posted above, the 8.5 wide, 40 offset produces that look: a 35 offset would push the wheel 5mm further out; you may not want that, as it is getting to the point of directly under the wheel well edge, and therefore is bordering on "poke" - which, in my humble opinion, is asking for a banged wheel well edge and a ruined tire when cornering hard and steering around a tight twisty; all it would take is a dip or other irregularity in the surface to pop the tread into the wheel well. Poke is bad especially in front.
 
^^^ What @RogueIV said: you're apparently doing what I used to do, reverse how offset works: think of a center line in the width of the wheel, and offset pushes more of the wheel toward the hub/brakes/suspension, i.e. the barrel of the wheel has less on the outside and more on the inside. (It is possible to have "negative offset", especially with widebody that uses a deep dish wheel where most of the barrel is beyond the spokes.) So, a big offset number means that the inner rim is getting closer to the hub/brakes/suspension, and the outer rim (assuming equal width - squared - all around) is looking more recessed into the wheel well (undesirable to most people, I believe, since recessed wheels lose the wider stance look).

That's why I was saying that you will want/need some spacers to push the rear wheels out toward the edge of the wheel well to look the same (flush or close to it) as the front wheels. In those pics I posted above, the 8.5 wide, 40 offset produces that look: a 35 offset would push the wheel 5mm further out; you may not want that, as it is getting to the point of directly under the wheel well edge, and therefore is bordering on "poke" - which, in my humble opinion, is asking for a banged wheel well edge and a ruined tire when cornering hard and steering around a tight twisty; all it would take is a dip or other irregularity in the surface to pop the tread into the wheel well. Poke is bad especially in front.
So you are suggesting 45's and spacers to push them in to about 40? And is this front and rear both? I put an order into PKautodesign for +35's a few minutes ago, but I assume I can still change that.
 
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to be honest I'd avoid spacers if you could. +35 shouldn't have any clearance issues so you should be fine.
 
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I'm sure you have hours in which you can change your order; but you might want to put a hold on it until you're sure.

What Rogue said is good advice. The rear wheels are going to look more recessed than the front, but it might be a minimal thing. I would expect so, because the square setup with OE wheels doesn't look noticeable to my eye: both the square and staggered look good inside the fenders. An OCD approach to equalizing a bit of difference, that bugs you enough to do something about it, will require spacers in the back to push the rims out to the same exact look as the front.
 
I run a square setup during winter here the difference is pretty minimal and even less noticeable if you're stock ride height.

@washere With the size you mentioned (19x8.5 +35) the front rim will stick out ⁷⁄₃₂" farther than the stock wheel and the rear rim will stick out 7⁄16" farther than the stock staggered wheels. these are pretty minimal changes. and it should look decent

editied: miscalculated the rear.
 
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I run a square setup during winter here the difference is pretty minimal and even less noticeable if you're stock ride height.

@washere With the size you mentioned (19x8.5 +35) the front rim will stick out ⁷⁄₃₂" farther than the stock wheel and the rear rim will stick out ⁹⁄₃₂" farther than the stock staggered wheels. these are pretty minimal changes. and it should look decent
For my edification, if you please: how do you arrive at such precise measurements? Are you intimately acquainted with the exact wheel he wants to get? Because from my reading (I do try to read everything here on wheels and tires), I'm of the understanding that offset will produce different clearances (and by association different outer stance) depending on the brand and model of wheel. Also, it seems that from what you said, I was pulling his rear wheels in with the square 35 offset (compared to what my rear wheel width and offset is); and you actually have it extending further than stock and 2/32 more than in front. In other words, I am not getting it if your measurements are on. Thanks.
 
For my edification, if you please: how do you arrive at such precise measurements? Are you intimately acquainted with the exact wheel he wants to get? Because from my reading (I do try to read everything here on wheels and tires), I'm of the understanding that offset will produce different clearances (and by association different outer stance) depending on the brand and model of wheel. Also, it seems that from what you said, I was pulling his rear wheels in with the square 35 offset (compared to what my rear wheel width and offset is); and you actually have it extending further than stock and 2/32 more than in front. In other words, I am not getting it if your measurements are on. Thanks.
I actually messed up my calculation for the rears it's 7/16". These comparisons are made against factory wheel sizes. factory wheels on the rear are 19x8.5 +46.5 new size is the same but +35 instead. 11.5 is roughly 7/16" difference.

This is the rear calculation Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

this is the front one Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

Granted there's always slight variances from manufacturer to manufacturer in how they may measure things but they're generally close.
 
I actually messed up my calculation for the rears it's 7/16". These comparisons are made against factory wheel sizes. factory wheels on the rear are 19x8.5 +46.5 new size is the same but +35 instead. 11.5 is roughly 7/16" difference.

This is the rear calculation Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

this is the front one Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

Granted there's always slight variances from manufacturer to manufacturer in how they may measure things but they're generally close.
So if I read this correctly, the +35 is going to be a very minor change, and will not cause any issues? It sounds like I would be able to use a larger tire upfront (later) and be able to rotate my tires, which is of course exactly what I want.
 
So if I read this correctly, the +35 is going to be a very minor change, and will not cause any issues? It sounds like I would be able to use a larger tire upfront (later) and be able to rotate my tires, which is of course exactly what I want.
Correct, you could go with the factory rear tire size all around if you wished.
 
Correct, you could go with the factory rear tire size all around if you wished.
I assume if I really think that the back is too far in (sorry, I don't know the correct term), I can add a spacer later right? I know some people have issues with spacers, so unless it really drives me nuts, I will just leave it alone.
 
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It won't be further back that the OEM wheels, but yeah you can add spacers if you wish, just be sure to get quality ones, no one like losing a wheel at speed, believe me it's not fun.
 
I actually messed up my calculation for the rears it's 7/16". These comparisons are made against factory wheel sizes. factory wheels on the rear are 19x8.5 +46.5 new size is the same but +35 instead. 11.5 is roughly 7/16" difference.

This is the rear calculation Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

this is the front one Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

Granted there's always slight variances from manufacturer to manufacturer in how they may measure things but they're generally close.
Cool! Thanks for this tool/toy. :D Here's how my TSW Watkins front wheels look: Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

Where did you find the OEM GT wheels offsets?
 
Cool! Thanks for this tool/toy. :D Here's how my TSW Watkins front wheels look: Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

Where did you find the OEM GT wheels offsets?
That's @Shrikecorp 's doing. But I've seen the same offsets listed on several sites and I think this stamped on the wheels themselves iirc.

There's an entire spreadsheet he created as well that's been linked a few times here. Stinger Wheel Tire Options He has the fitment calculator pull info from the sheet automatically so you can click on the "front" and "rear" of each row and it'll tell you how each setup will fit compared to OEM.

Your car is actually on this spreadsheet already lol.
 
That's @Shrikecorp 's doing. But I've seen the same offsets listed on several sites and I think this stamped on the wheels themselves iirc.

There's an entire spreadsheet he created as well that's been linked a few times here. Stinger Wheel Tire Options He has the fitment calculator pull info from the sheet automatically so you can click on the "front" and "rear" of each row and it'll tell you how each setup will fit compared to OEM.

Your car is actually on this spreadsheet already lol.
Yeah, I've seen "me" on there before, but never noticed the calculator link. Hah. :rolleyes: :P
 
Just bought a set of 20x8.5 +35 wheels.

Haven't seen anyone running a 20x8.5 squared setup in this thread and I'm trying to decide on tires. Would 245/35 or 255/35 be the best fitment?

*Car won't be lowered and I'd like to fill the wheel well as much as possible
 
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,Would 245/35 or 255/35 be the best fitment
I am running square on 19'' 8.5" OEM 255/40, a bit more comfortable and a bit more protection for the rims. BUT the HUD/speedometer show a bit LESS than actual speed. On the other hand, I hope to get a bit more mileage of the new set than the old, packing it in @ 30K km. Both were/are Michelin's A/S.


s
 
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Just bought a set of 20x8.5 +35 wheels.

Haven't seen anyone running a 20x8.5 squared setup in this thread and I'm trying to decide on tires. Would 245/35 or 255/35 be the best fitment?

*Car won't be lowered and I'd like to fill the wheel well as much as possible
I am leaning towards that size squared as well paired with 255/40 or 255/35 tires and don’t plan to lower. Which wheels did u purchase?
 
The wheels I wanted have been on backorder for months so I found these for only $916...Pinnacle Splendent P204
I am leaning towards that size squared as well paired with 255/40 or 255/35 tires and don’t plan to lower. Which wheels did u purchase?
 

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Can someone verify I'm looking at this correctly? I've used the 'tire fitment calculator', but just want to make sure...

I've changed my wheels to 19x8.5 +35 front and 19x9.5 +40 rear, and put the OEM Michellins on (225/40 front and 255/35 rear). However, I'm not a fan of how un-vertical (technical term there) the sidewalls are. The tire fitment calculator tells me I could put the following tire sizes on (% diff in brackets):

FRONT
255/35 (-0.83)
REAR
295/30 (-0.84)

So, I could technically put my rear tires on my front and buy new tires for the rear? I have approx. 4,000 km on the car so the rubber is still pretty new.

Thoughts/opinions/feedback?

EDIT: Just realized that I didn't take the width of the new wheels into consideration. 255 on 8.5 and 295 on 9.5 might be pushing it a wee bit :-/
 
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The tire/wheel chart I go by says that 275 is the maximum size for 9.5 wide. And 255 is maximum size for 8.5 wide; so you're okay there. Clearance inside the front fender with 35 offset and 255/35 tire looks good. But matching the rear to get the same overall diameter doesn't work with a 295/30 because you have no fender clearance and even poke. And using a recommended max 275 creates aspect ratio difficulties where the rear overall diameter is either smaller or larger than the front.

265/35 comes closer, with only 4mm of difference between front and rear sidewall height, with the rear looking that teensy bit taller, with overall 7mm OD bigger in the back; and it has fender clearance that matches the front fender clearance.

The 275/35 is the closest match to the 255/35 in front; but its OD is 14mm larger and I don't know if that is acceptable, especially with AWD: if you're RWD it won't matter and will look cool (although the gap in front will be a bit more than in the rear); fender clearance looks flush.

You've got room to play with in the rear: if you put that tire and wheel on a 45 offset it centers it more, i.e. gives fender clearance that matches the front.

 
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