@Kamauxx Updated you in the sheet, pulled specs from your other posts, noticing that in your case the tires are wrong, I'll update that tooView attachment 24127
My reason for creating the new thread was to bring together the actual info from the Aftermarket Wheels thread as well as other sources. Sifting through a bazillion posts, 90% of which had no actual facts (though still fun), for facts was a lot.
Agreed, I had the same need. There are 31 pages in the Aftermarket Wheels thread, and there is misinformation spread across all of them, you'd need to read every page to figure out what the recommended sizes are, who has done what and what worked all in one place. That's what the new spreadsheet is for. Additionally, we've standardized and curated the data so that it's all in the same format, and from the sheet you can link from any setup into wheel-size.com to see exactly how it fits compared to stock (or eibach which is so common)
Additionally, while the look of the wheels is important, and the shape of the spokes could have an affect on fitment with brakes, the only thing that really matters is diameter, width, offset, tread width and sidewall, everything else is just eye-of-the-beholder. So, you might not see exactly the wheel you're looking for, but you want to know if it fits, the spreadsheet in the first post here will tell you for sure. The most common questions are "will it poke" or "will it rub", you can get that answer here.
Anything over 8.5+30, 9+35 or 9.5+40 will poke, every -10 offset will be about another 7/16" out (~1/2" give or take). Depends on what you're going for, I doubt anyone will be disappointed with 8.5+30, 9+35 or 9.5+40, but if you're going for a flush look, I would suggest avoiding going beyond that unless you're trying to extend past the fender. If you want a wider or taller tire up front, definitely stick to that range.
Obviously take this with a grain of salt, if you really measure things out you can certainly go beyond those recommendations, but I would suggest that the point of this thread is to find out "what's recommended", the rest is buyer beware, it's your car, do what feels good to you.
Yeah, I would say that 9+30 would be pretty safe, it'll stick out an extra 1/4 inch farther than 8.5+30 which is pretty respectable, you'd barely notice
Definitely slightly inside, I would expect just like the Federation Stinger which you can see most clearly in this shot, I love this setup personally, just looking at a different style of wheel, though the Sprint is amazing looking.
Yeah, I am 8.5 front, not 9. Yeah, the Watkins are true directional rims.
Here are a couple of pics I posted earlier today. You decide if the front is flush or slightly inside; I think it's slightly inside; and the rear is flush: View attachment 24293View attachment 24294
Asking here first...67.1mm hub fitting a wheel with 74.1mm bore means rings, correct? Or is it common to let the lugs handle the burden of centering the wheel? Never considered it before. Does this represent any compromise, near or long term? I won't be tracking the car, but I'm a fairly...spirited driver.
Asking here first...67.1mm hub fitting a wheel with 74.1mm bore means rings, correct? Or is it common to let the lugs handle the burden of centering the wheel? Never considered it before. Does this represent any compromise, near or long term? I won't be tracking the car, but I'm a fairly...spirited driver.
I recently purchased some Ark Performance 225S from Nick. He was less expensive than the K8Stinger store. I had Discount Tire (DT) mount them for me.
On my drive home I had vibration I had never experienced before, so a couple days later I had DT check them out. They told me I should get some Hub Centric Rings.
Stupid me. I assumed that because HCR and new lugs were included in the set from K8 that the set through Nick would also. They didn't....
So, I bought some aluminum HCR and some racing lugs, put them on, and all is well.
As an aside, on the cost side, it ended up costing me more in total than if I had ordered from K8.
I recently purchased some Ark Performance 225S from Nick. He was less expensive than the K8Stinger store. I had Discount Tire (DT) mount them for me.
On my drive home I had vibration I had never experienced before, so a couple days later I had DT check them out. They told me I should get some Hub Centric Rings.
Stupid me. I assumed that because HCR and new lugs were included in the set from K8 that the set through Nick would also. They didn't....
So, I bought some aluminum HCR and some racing lugs, put them on, and all is well.
As an aside, on the cost side, it ended up costing me more in total than if I had ordered from K8.