NICK_KHAR
Authorized Vendor
Just because we are the only ones hands on testing brakes doesnt mean they are any less reliable than the manufacturer of the pads telling you hey these will work
Just because we are the only ones hands on testing brakes doesnt mean they are any less reliable than the manufacturer of the pads telling you hey these will work
Thank you Nick for commenting here. I appreciate you taking the time to state why the pad manufacturers haven't listed the pads yet. I also appreciate you taking the time to test your pads and your fit guarantee.@Helo58
all the pad manufactures dont list the same pads we do because they havent tested them in the stinger caliper or they havent gotten specs for the stinger pads to reference which pads will work
We are the only and first to specifically market pads for the stinger because we purchased and tested it ourselves
We guarantee all the pads we offer to fit perfectly without issue
Reason why we havent listed pads for the rear is they are proprietary and dont match up to anything currently out
Centric already posted part numbers for them but they wont be available till late in the year
Just so you know, Stop Tech is Centrics racing division.
And your point??? I wanted a more aggressive pad than the PosiOuiets while maintaining a ceramic/aramid compound. As Stoptech is the high performance and racing division of Centric, why wouldn't I start here?
And your point??? I wanted a more aggressive pad than the PosiOuiets while maintaining a ceramic/aramid compound. As Stoptech is the high performance and racing division of Centric, why wouldn't I start here?
By aggressive, I mean to take more temperature without losing the desired brake properties like friction coefficient (fade resistance), pedal feel, and brake modulation during aggressive stops. I want a performance ceramic for low noise and low dust reasons and I want to avoid a semi-metallic pad for corrosive dust reasons.@Helo58 , exactly what are trying to accomplish?
Please define aggressive per your desire.
Is it your belief that another pad will make you stop in a shorter distance?
Holy crap! That's the last thing I want to experience. I'll continue monitoring this discussion, to make sure I understand which aftermarket pads NOT to get.Some pads have so much bite that it is like using an on/off switch.
I have used both in the past on other cars (Hawk 5.0 and EBC Yellow). The feel and stopping power of the Hawk 5.0 was perfect for me but I was not a fan of the large amounts of brake dust they put off. As the offered Hawk and EBS pads are all semi-metallic pads ( I think), the dust has a high potential of being corrosive when the metallic dust interacts with humidity and moisture. Unless washed off often, the dust can damage the finish on your wheels and calipers over time.Nick has EBS and Hawk pads listed that are more high performance and aggressive if that is what you want.
That was a sentiment specifically relative to precise driving. The increased initial bite of the pad on the rotor offered a lot of braking force for very little brake pedal travel, hence the on/off reference. It is probably a bit of exaggeration, but you certainly could not ease into a delicate braking maneuver. No worries though, none of the pads we are discussing here are going to put you in a ditch or something worse.Holy crap! That's the last thing I want to experience. I'll continue monitoring this discussion, to make sure I understand which aftermarket pads NOT to get.
I bought a new G70 3.3T Sport last weekend and I've been following the brake shutter issue closely on the Stinger forums. I have had the shutter issue on most cars that I've owned, but it usually doesn't manifest until the tail end of the pad life. My 2012 BMW 5 Series went to about 25k and started doing it. After I had the brakes replaced, I stopped using the auto hold feature at stop lights, because I noticed that when it engaged, it clamped down way harder on the rotors than was necessary.
I ordered the OEM euro-spec brake pads yesterday, and will install them as soon as they come in. Like others in this thread, I think these ceramic pads are the source of the issue, and I am hoping the replacement pads don't have the issue.
I know the fronts are the same and I'm 95% sure the rears are too. I paid $460 front & rear.are the pads the same as the Stinger's? How much did you pay for the euro-spec pads?
"Often", is what? Every day that you drive? Or once a week if you don't do any extensive "spirited" driving?Unless washed off often, the dust can damage the finish on your wheels and calipers over time.
I got to the point where I used a product called Sonax Wheel Cleaner once a week. I had a great experience with it, but there are others just as good or maybe even better. The Sonax changes colors when it reacts with the pH of the brake dust, so it is kind of cool to watch. Maybe the color change is a gimmick, but the stuff works regardless. If you are still using the stock pads, I don't think you have to worry about this issue as the stock pads are ceramic."Often", is what? Every day that you drive? Or once a week if you don't do any extensive "spirited" driving?
Is a handheld pressure wand on "rinse" cycle in a manual car wash good enough for getting the brake pad dust off?