3.3TT Kia Stinger 3.3TT SSR Downpipes +30WHP / +26WTQ NO TUNE!!!!! Dyno Runs and Testing

I have sent a message off to race chip RS as my WHP should be much higher than the 320 whp I gotten on the Dyno , I hope they cab remap it for me again :)

MisterMAc , where there any Cats that needed to be removed using the down pipes, and did any codes show up ???
 
MisterMAc , where there any Cats that needed to be removed using the down pipes, and did any codes show up ???

The downpipes replace the secondary cats. There are no codes bc the O2 sensors are before these pipes this equals free flowing air.
 
The downpipes replace the secondary cats. There are no codes bc the O2 sensors are before these pipes this equals free flowing air.

Thanks MisterMAc , that is was I was wondering ! :)
 
______________________________
So I'm still learning all of this but as far as I can tell and from what I've read these are mid pipes and not downpipes. Downpipes bolt onto the turbos replacing the primary cats and the O2 sensors. If you replace the "Real" downpipes and have no O2 sensor you will get a CEL.

So why are we calling these downpipes and not mid pipes?
 
So I'm still learning all of this but as far as I can tell and from what I've read these are mid pipes and not downpipes. Downpipes bolt onto the turbos replacing the primary cats and the O2 sensors. If you replace the "Real" downpipes and have no O2 sensor you will get a CEL.

So why are we calling these downpipes and not mid pipes?

I suggest you take it up with the vendor.

Screenshot_20190405-073120_Firefox.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So I'm still learning all of this but as far as I can tell and from what I've read these are mid pipes and not downpipes. Downpipes bolt onto the turbos replacing the primary cats and the O2 sensors. If you replace the "Real" downpipes and have no O2 sensor you will get a CEL.

So why are we calling these downpipes and not mid pipes?

I really hoping the Jun bl DPs are really mid pipes and removes only the secondary cat s ,, can any one confirm JUn BL down pipes are really mid pipes ???
 
Looking forward to my SSR mid-pipe (2nd Downpipe) pkg at the end of the month. ;)
 
I really hoping the Jun bl DPs are really mid pipes and removes only the secondary cat s ,, can any one confirm JUn BL down pipes are really mid pipes ???

Based on the pictures and what I know they look like midpipes not down pipes :)

Looking forward to my SSR mid-pipe (2nd Downpipe) pkg at the end of the month. ;)

I see what you did there :)

In all seriousness, I just want to better understand so I know what I'm looking for. Not looking for HP from this just better more aggressive sound if I get HP from it great.
 
Based on the pictures and what I know they look like midpipes not down pipes :)



I see what you did there :)

In all seriousness, I just want to better understand so I know what I'm looking for. Not looking for HP from this just better more aggressive sound if I get HP from it great.

If you want more aggresive sound, use the SSR dp/sdp/mp and their axle back pipes.
 
In all seriousness, I just want to better understand so I know what I'm looking for. Not looking for HP from this just better more aggressive sound if I get HP from it great.
There are vendor and user videos posted, trying to show the sound differences before and after. While good for a rough idea, they can't show you what it's going to sound like IRL under various conditions in and out of the car.

Ultimately you're going to have to weed through the many different subjective opinions that have been posted, and decide which you want to believe ... o_O
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I really hoping the Jun bl DPs are really mid pipes and removes only the secondary cat s ,, can any one confirm JUn BL down pipes are really mid pipes ???
Jun B.L. are 2nd cat downpipes only, currently there is only one FULL 1st with HFC and 2nd no cat set on the market and they will set you back $1,400 also make the car louder. Currently the largest blockage is the 2nd downpipes of the factory setup.... so I would suggest do those only. Look them up at "junbl (dot) co (dot) kr" I chose SSR as no drone have been heard with stock exhausts past the midpipes with SSR, have heard some drone due to resonance notes around 2,500 RPM with Jun B.L.. Poeple don't realize how much science goes into making headers and exhausts, just changing length by 1/2 in and you can get major notes! I'm old school guy and we tuned the headers to the RPM we needed in the old days... LoL Hooker Headers for those who know.
 
I will got the jun BL DP ( mid pipes) put on tomorrow, so it should lighten up the car a little bit and I am expecting no more HP gains just lighter :) as it removes only the secondary cats , thanks goodness !
 
So why are we calling these downpipes and not mid pipes?
Its simply a misunderstanding in terminology, and a lot of uninformed people use them interchangeably.

Unfortunately, some vendors took advantage of that and started advertising midpipes/secondary DPs as actual downpipes. I believe the only true DP available is from Lap3, but that does remove the o2 sensor and will throw a CEL without a tune.
Not looking for HP from this just better more aggressive sound if I get HP from it great.
You're looking at this backwards then. DPs/MP/SDPs are used to remove the biggest airflow restrictions in order to provide the highest HP gains. They barely provide any difference in sound when compared to stock. You may notice slightly deeper tones and a minimal increase in volume, but performance is what these are used for.

If you want a more aggressive sound you will have to remove or alter the mufflers/resonators specifically. Unfortunately some people complain about Drone, so it really comes down to your personal preference. Multiple people with muffler deletes say they have very minimal drone, while others said it was bad enough to vibrate the center console.

IMO, muffler deletes with "side silencers" or helmholtz resonators will be the best of both worlds.
My local performance exhaust shop said they can build a custom axle-back exhaust like this one for $6-700, or just a muffler delete for $200 and add the silencers later if needed.

Might be worth checking out instead of $5-700 for MP/SDPs that will give you more HP but barely change the stock exhaust sound.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Well just done with a Dyno run yesterday, so here the basic numbers max whp was 344.5 and torque was now running 471.7 lbft, with my new Borla Cat back : these were run on two different DynoCom s ! Looks like all the performances upgrades and tomorrow I will have the Jun BL Mid pipes installed , I guess the Dyno testing will be the Butt Dyno only lol :)
 

Attachments

  • EB32A0DF-42A9-464A-A025-D0B8F9CB7C4D.webp
    EB32A0DF-42A9-464A-A025-D0B8F9CB7C4D.webp
    38.4 KB · Views: 17
Well just done with a Dyno run yesterday, so here the basic numbers max whp was 344.5 and torque was now running 471.7 lbft, with my new Borla Cat back : these were run on two different DynoCom s ! Looks like all the performances upgrades and tomorrow I will have the Jun BL Mid pipes installed , I guess the Dyno testing will be the Butt Dyno only lol :)
Wow. So the Borla added 7whp, but lost 80wtq?!?:confused: Wasnt your previous max 337whp/552wtq?

Again, where are you getting these dyno results and what type of dyno are you using? DynoJet style, or a load bearing dyno like a MustangDyno? These results still look unusual and you shouldnt lose almost 100wtq around 4k RPM.:eek: Ive also never seen a HP curve dip drastically at 4k and then come back up at 5.5k like yours.

Im not trying to be negative, but your results really dont make sense and seems like something is wrong with your top end power.:unsure:

I hope you can get to the bottom of it as you should easily be in the 400whp+ range with a chip and intake/exhaust.:thumbup:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Wow. So the Borla added 7whp, but lost 80wtq?!?:confused: Wasnt your previous max 337whp/552wtq?

Again, where are you getting these dyno results and what type of dyno are you using? DynoJet style, or a load bearing dyno like a MustangDyno? These results still look unusual and you shouldnt lose almost 100wtq around 4k RPM.:eek: Ive also never seen a HP curve dip drastically at 4k and then come back up at 5.5k like yours.

Im not trying to be negative, but your results really dont make sense and seems like something is wrong with your top end power.:unsure:

I hope you can get to the bottom of it as you should easily be in the 400whp+ range with a chip and intake/exhaust.:thumbup:
yeah I more confused than ever with the numbers ,,the only thing I can think of is the both DynoCom s Dynos read like they they said like the Mustang designed Dynos ,, no f--kin Dynos for me after this ,I had to be running at least 100 Octane as well ,, Not sure what it would run at on a dyno Jet Dyno .. Lol might be even less ! Even Dragy run s my best was only 12.72 and 0-60 finished off at 4.52 for my best time !
 
______________________________
yeah I more confused than ever with the numbers ,,the only thing I can think of is the both DynoCom s Dynos read like they they said like the Mustang designed Dynos ,, no f--kin Dynos for me after this ,I had to be running at least 100 Octane as well ,, Not sure what it would run at on a dyno Jet Dyno .. Lol might be even less ! Even Dragy run s my best was only 12.72 and 0-60 finished off at 4.52 for my best time !
Yes StungBlueGT , you are 100 % correct it is indeed a load bearing Dyno , like the Mustang Dyno !
 
You get parabolas like that with incorrect dyno loading/gearing settings...
 
You get parabolas like that with incorrect dyno loading/gearing settings...
Both people said ,who did the Dyno runs ,, this was in fact their first running a Stinger GT and both times the runs were on both DynoCom dynos within ,each showed a big drop in the power curve and back up ! \the other only difference from the last test was that, I had my RS chip remapped and added the Borla cat back exhaust on it !
 
Both people said ,who did the Dyno runs ,, this was in fact their first running a Stinger GT and both times the runs were on both DynoCom dynos within ,each showed a big drop in the power curve and back up ! \the other only difference from the last test was that, I had my RS chip remapped and added the Borla cat back exhaust on it !

Not a good enough excuse for me. I used to do tuning on EB Fords for a while...a simple Google search can get you the gearing info you need if we're talking about a dynojet dyno. A call to your local mustang rep and a Google search will get you the correct load settings for a load bearing dyno. It's just laziness that led to that graph.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top