Please share ways/actions to extend longevity of Stinger

good comments already about good gas, injector cleaner, synth oil, etc.

All add that to keep rust away (winter regions), I rinse out in the wheel wells as often as I can given the cold temps

Normal basics of cleaning bird poop off paint quickly, sap, etc

catch cans seem like a prudent step

Glad to hear folks that like to keep cars in good condition. These are nice cars whether you keep them for 15yrs or sell to the next owner, should be kept in good order.
 
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good comments already about good gas, injector cleaner, synth oil, etc.

All add that to keep rust away (winter regions), I rinse out in the wheel wells as often as I can given the cold temps

Normal basics of cleaning bird poop off paint quickly, sap, etc

catch cans seem like a prudent step

Glad to hear folks that like to keep cars in good condition. These are nice cars whether you keep them for 15yrs or sell to the next owner, should be kept in good order.
I cringe when I see a decent car totally abused....
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I’m in MA and the dealer told me with awd there’s no need for winter tires. I’ve always had winter tires. Not sure what to do any feedback welcomed - thanks
He must think you're an ace driver! :thumbup: Get winter or A/S anyway.

You could find that video on here somewhere showing the test between winter, A/S and summer tires on ice. A/S are adequate; winter work noticeably better; summers are a horrible, nightmarish joke, very stupid. Once you have the video, ask for the email of your dealer and send the video link to him. He's giving criminally negligent advice, imho.
 
Thanks for the advice. I think I will get winter.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Like I said, town fair tire has a good wheel/tire package for under 700 bucks.......might be a x-mass present for me and the car..........We have a fwd forte if it gets bad....any worse and they tell us to stay home anyways.......
 
  • Read and understand the owner's manual
  • Follow maintenance schedule religiously
  • Change oil rather more than less
  • Don't cheap out on consumables (oil, coolant, AT fluid etc)
  • If something needs to be looked after, do it sooner than later.
  • Keep her clean.
  • Get her rustproofed (Krown or RustCheck in Canada)
  • Make an effort to find a good mechanic.
  • Don't race her unnecessarily.
Should I wait to Krown it after the paint settles in? Or should I go and do it right away?
 
Should I wait

Your paint is cured. So there is no problem there. If this car is your DD, get it done before the snow flies.

I had my mechanic take the undercover panels off before I took the car for its treatment. That will enable the technician to spray everywhere.
There are six panels covering probably 80% of the car's belly, and obscure too much if you want the rust treatment done properly.

I also used this as an opportunity to clean, degrease, paint and wax the panels. In addition, bought 25 stainless 5mm bolts with washers & lock washers to replace the
OEM hardware, because it is prone to rust...
I had a Fumoto valve installed during my first oil change @ 800km, and now with the panels down cut an access port for the valve into the panel under the engine.
Copied the design from the front panel's port for the oil filter change and made a cover for it.
I had bought an OEM cover from the dealer ($6), but it did not work as well, because the opening I cut is not specifically stamped as is the original.
Made the cover then from very thin alu plate & spacer. Wanted to keep it as light as possible.

Things to think about. Good luck. :)
 
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Your paint is cured. So there is no problem there. If this car is your DD, get it done before the snow flies.

I had my mechanic take the undercover panels off before I took the car for its treatment. That will enable the technician to spray everywhere.
There are six panels and cover probably 80% of the car's belly, and obscure too much if you want the rust treatment done properly.

I also used this as an opportunity to clean, degrease, paint and wax the panels. In addition, bought 25 stainless 5mm bolts with washers & lock washers to replace the
OEM hardware, because it is prone to rust...
I had a Fumoto valve installed during my first oil change @ 800km, and now with the panels down cut an access port for the valve into the panel under the engine.
Copied the design from the front panel's port for the oil filter change and made a cover for it.
I had bought an OEM cover from the dealer ($6), but it did not work as well, because the opening I cut is not specifically stamped as is the original.
Made the cover then from very thin alu plate & spacer. Wanted to keep it as light as possible.

Things to think about. Good luck. :)

Dang that is a lot to think about. I take ownership of my vehicle this week and was thinking about getting it krowned but previous vehicles my family owned never had to be krowned straight from purchase. Usually krowned a year after . I do however wax my vehicles before winter or ensure any stuff just glides off .it's getting cold now in the GTA so time is really coming down . I'll probably wax it once I get it to make sure it's at least protected. Can you kindly explain what you mean by the 5mm bolts? Are those the lugs? Also that Fumuto valve is actually pretty neat. Just googled it. THere are a ton of them do you by any chance have the link of the one you got?Thanks again for this informative reply .
 
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kindly explain

There is no rule that you HAVE to rust proof your car immediately after purchase. If you drive a clunker in the winter, you could wait until next Fall. But if you need to drive it through the worst season of the year, why not protecting it while everything is "fresh"?

Firstly, get PPF on all of your chromed parts, bumper, hood, A-pillars, door sills and the rear bumper. I would do that before the Krown (or RustCheck as in my case) treatment. Saves on a lot of cleaning before the film goes on. Do the wax after the PPF.
I suggest you take possession of the car with the panels already off. Let the dealer do it. Explain why.
The panels are fixed with a combination of bolts and plastic clips. The OEM (self-threading) bolts have lock washers & washers incorporated. Keeps the parts from getting lost I guess.
If I am not mistaken, there are a total of 25 bolts for the six panels. No need to get self-threading ones. The clips don't rust. I don't know what you mean by lugs. Anyway, put everything back once the dripping stopped.

You should update your profile with your location.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
There is no rule that you HAVE to rust proof your car immediately after purchase. If you drive a clunker in the winter, you could wait until next Fall. But if you need to drive it through the worst season of the year, why not protecting it while everything is "fresh"?

Firstly, get PPF on all of your chromed parts, bumper, hood, A-pillars, door sills and the rear bumper. I would do that before the Krown (or RustCheck as in my case) treatment. Saves on a lot of cleaning before the film goes on. Do the wax after the PPF.
I suggest you take possession of the car with the panels already off. Let the dealer do it. Explain why.
The panels are fixed with a combination of bolts and plastic clips. The OEM (self-threading) bolts have lock washers & washers incorporated. Keeps the parts from getting lost I guess.
If I am not mistaken, there are a total of 25 bolts for the six panels. No need to get self-threading ones. The clips don't rust. I don't know what you mean by lugs. Anyway, put everything back once the dripping stopped.

You should update your profile with your location.


Ah much appreciated. My apologies. I had confused the lugs for the wheels with the bolts underneath lol. Long night. You sure have lots of knowledge which is very much appreciated. In regards to the Fumoto, do you have a link to where you had purchased yours? Amazon has a ton and I am not sure which would be the best one since the videos with oil changes from the stingers I have seen tend to hit that bar underneath.

Will do. Thanks again.
 
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What bar?
I make you work first.
You can use my "handle" and "Fumoto valve" and search the forum for it. Many moons ago I provided this information together with the picture of the item.
The Fumoto website may also take you to the proper item.
I have a valve where the direction of the oil stream can be changed. 14 mm is the thread.
The oil plug location on a vertical surface at the back of the engine. Very straightforward.
Always double check the facts yourself, never take anyone's word for it.
 
What bar?
I make you work first.
You can use my "handle" and "Fumoto valve" and search the forum for it. Many moons ago I provided this information together with the picture of the item.
The Fumoto website may also take you to the proper item.
I have a valve where the direction of the oil stream can be changed. 14 mm is the thread.
The oil plug location on a vertical surface at the back of the engine. Very straightforward.
Always double check the facts yourself, never take anyone's word for it.

Thanks. I was able to find your original post back in April. You even included pictures. Much appreciated. I watched a video of a Fumoto "Nipple" version and they had just added a tube to direct the flow. Looks good. Will try and pick one up since the Dealer didn't give me their 2 year free maintenance. Hahah.

Thanks again totally I appreciate it.
 
appreciate it

You are welcome. :)

One last thing: Have you considered proper tires for the season to come?

And before you ask, I took delivery of the car very early in January and had ordered a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 a week prior to expected delivery. Drove the car from the dealer directly to Costco to facilitate the transfer. I am very happy with them.
 
You are welcome. :)

One last thing: Have you considered proper tires for the season to come?

And before you ask, I took delivery of the car very early in January and had ordered a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 a week prior to expected delivery. Drove the car from the dealer directly to Costco to facilitate the transfer. I am very happy with them.

Hahah you read my mind. Literally. I have been canvassing around for tires. My family usually goes to Tires23 and my previous car I had gotten it from them as well. I mean they have been great for over 9 years for us. Recent quote I got was the following: Kindly chime in if you think it's a good deal:

225/45/18 Michelin Xic3 + 18” FAST Bullseye + TPMS package $2350/set



225/45/18 Conti winter contact SI + 18” FAST Bullesye + TPMS package $2200/set



225/45/18 Nokian Hakka R3 + 18” FAST Bullesye + TPMS package $2560/se

The Michelin have a 70 dollar rebate, the Conti, 100, and the Nokkian 0 lol. This is what I got. A bit pricey but Idk. What do you think?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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