It is just over 12k miles. If they are going to claim rotors are warped, that sounds like a defect, not "normal" wear. If they are going to charge me, I'm definitely going to put up an argument. Plus, I bought the car new but it had 1600 miles on it. So technically, I didn't put 12k miles on it. I guess we'll see what their answer is.
I have used the stock pads (US) and Stoptech pads and all stock rotors. For my "last" go around, I will either go with a performance semi-metallic (Hawk) or the Gyrodisc pads. Not sure it matters at this point. After that, they won't be touched again (by me) and I will turn the car in. NC Lemon Law requires the following...
My car is typical, not "lucky". Lucky implies rare: Stinger brakes in the US work for most drivers. If that were not the case, this forum would be flooded with complaints, as would KIA, and an actual recall would have already taken place.
I think that you will find that it's just brake pad dust built up and compressed between pad and disc, as after city driving i find hard braking may cause some light shudder. But when i wash wheels with my pressure washer and spray around around calipers it must remove the build up as i can then go on freeway and brake and all is smooth again...maybe some grooved disc's may improve this as they get rid of gases and build up, if they were warped badly you would feel it at any speed, so there's my input ...Cheers
I said YOU must be lucky! I’d love to know the %age of owners having this problem! This is a secret, but I put a deposit on a ‘20 GT1 AWD for LBO, and I was concerned about the seeming prevalence of this ‘issue’ - amazing what passes for facts when it’s not rocket surgery. If the car is equipped with Brembo calipers, pads, and rotors, great, and I’ll bed thos suckers in properly. I can’t believe that Kia would not know the reality and keep replaying those unwarpable chunks of 2 layer iron! Personally, I like engine-braking. Speed up, old man!
No. There’s always some dust. There were tough deposits from the pad onto the rotor due to insufficient bedding process incl. not sufficient cooling time. And the rotors are not warped, never were, never will be unless beaten by Thor’s hammer. Bedding in temperatures change the chemical structure of the pads that need it, as per the white papers. Thanks, though.
Keep us posted. Hopefully, the new tires/wheels remove the shudder/imbalance.
Shudder with the old pads demonstrates that your ‘medium’ bedding process was insufficient/incorrect as that would be from deposits on your new rotors because of that. Bed them hard! You’ve got nothing to lose. AND make sure you let the brake system cool sufficiently befor complete stop or you risk transfer of more searingly hot pad material to the rotors. Good luck with the tires. Geez!
For what it is worth, the parking brake functions at speed by moderately braking and sounding a beeping sound (much like park assist sound). It won't simply lock up the rears and send you into a spin. It will stop you rather abruptly at speeds around a crawl. From what I could gather, I think the EPB is still linked with the hydraulic brakes when braking at speed, so it may not help at all for your situation. Furthermore, I think that it is this braking system that is causing the rotor/pad problems on this car.
That's why having a defensible planned route/roads you know to leave room for cooling distance hopefully not interrupted by any surprises. We need an "Officer, I'm bedding in my brake system for everyone's safety" card/sticker...
What's wrong with your rotors?
How did that test drive go, I’m guessing well hence “the secret” deposit...
It was fine. No forum member suggested issues realized, incl. brakes. The plague's effect on the markets has me a bit rattled, though. May sign (or not) on Saturday...
The car had 1600 miles before you purchased the car? That sounds like the car was used before you purchased it?
