White stinger emblem change paint chips. Bad quality paint job?

Thread ressurection, totally my fault my dumbass went too crazy w heat gun... ceramic silver bubbled a bit n chipped from raised numbers on credit card I was using. Worst part is covered by emblem but pretty bad on front end
I'll attempt to fix w those paint pens.. wife just rolled her eyes lol
Wat a fail on a week old car
Live n learn
Wats the best way people remove remaining adhesive? Goo gone then wipe and scrap off w plastic card? Paper towels?

Yes. Goo gone. Leave it on for a bit. Then put some on your towel too and just keep wiping. It'll wipe away clean. As for the paint chips. I went to a lot of bodyshops. Some were willing to work with me on the rear. Only ended up costing me I think $150. But the front. Everyone was quoting me close to a thousand. Claiming the whole bumper had to come off for repaint. I'd just grab the pen and do the best you can. I ended up doing that and you can tell but just form a glance you can't.
 
Yes. Goo gone. Leave it on for a bit. Then put some on your towel too and just keep wiping. It'll wipe away clean. As for the paint chips. I went to a lot of bodyshops. Some were willing to work with me on the rear. Only ended up costing me I think $150. But the front. Everyone was quoting me close to a thousand. Claiming the whole bumper had to come off for repaint. I'd just grab the pen and do the best you can. I ended up doing that and you can tell but just form a glance you can't.
Yeh I'm definitely gonna use paint pens for the front. Hard lesson learned. I have the rear badges too but hesitant to give it a go after failing so bad on the front.
Most definitely overheated the thing. N I guess when i finally work up the courage to do the rear, I'll use nylon fishing line instead of credit card, and be super conservative w heat. Hopefully no double fail but if I do maybe I'll post pics for entertainment value.
 
I would take my time and not even use the heat gun. Just apply goo gone. Let it sit for 10minutes. And use floss or fishing line to slowly break the glue off. Continously applying goo gone. And my fishing line was too strong. We go fishing in the gulf for big fish. When you do use it. Try to force the line towards you. So that the line is not rubbing against the paint. Because my line was rubbing against the paint it tore it apart. Just try to keep the line between glue and emblem. So that the glue is being rubbed and not the paint. It's a pain in the ass to remove all the glue after but at least your not messing up the paint.
 
______________________________
I would take my time and not even use the heat gun. Just apply goo gone. Let it sit for 10minutes. And use floss or fishing line to slowly break the glue off. Continously applying goo gone. And my fishing line was too strong. We go fishing in the gulf for big fish. When you do use it. Try to force the line towards you. So that the line is not rubbing against the paint. Because my line was rubbing against the paint it tore it apart. Just try to keep the line between glue and emblem. So that the glue is being rubbed and not the paint. It's a pain in the ass to remove all the glue after but at least your not messing up the paint.
Thanks appreciate the tip! Will try that method for the back
 
You dont know any car painters??? I have known a guy my entire life and charged me 100.00 but i felt bad so 150.00. So my whole back end is filled and painted. Good friend right there. Wish ya luck buddy!!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
You dont know any car painters??? I have known a guy my entire life and charged me 100.00 but i felt bad so 150.00. So my whole back end is filled and painted. Good friend right there. Wish ya luck buddy!!

Yes the back end seems to be easier for them to paint and blend. But the front required them to take the bumper off, take the trim off and paint them reassemble. Which is why it was so expensive.
 
Yeh I'm definitely gonna use paint pens for the front. Hard lesson learned. I have the rear badges too but hesitant to give it a go after failing so bad on the front.
Most definitely overheated the thing. N I guess when i finally work up the courage to do the rear, I'll use nylon fishing line instead of credit card, and be super conservative w heat. Hopefully no double fail but if I do maybe I'll post pics for entertainment value.

If possible get those flat plastic squeegees to go under each side of the Kia oval. The oval is extremely rigid and has zero flex so the getting the squeegees in under each side of the oval will give you leverage as well as prevents re-sticking as you wiggle the oval away from the car.
 
If possible get those flat plastic squeegees to go under each side of the Kia oval. The oval is extremely rigid and has zero flex so the getting the squeegees in under each side of the oval will give you leverage as well as prevents re-sticking as you wiggle the oval away from the car.
Thanks for the tip
Will try that as well when doing the rear. Probably in a few weeks
 
Thanks for the tip
Will try that as well when doing the rear. Probably in a few weeks

You’re welcome, your fingernails will be thanking you too!
 
You’re welcome, your fingernails will be thanking you too!
Yes and since I'll either not use or be super conservative w heat gun hopefully my car paint will thank me as well. I cringe everytime I look at the chips around the front badge but I will get over it eventually. Paint pens come this week so after I touch up front I'll do rear
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yes and since I'll either not use or be super conservative w heat gun hopefully my car paint will thank me as well. I cringe everytime I look at the chips around the front badge but I will get over it eventually. Paint pens come this week so after I touch up front I'll do rear

DON'T use the heat gun. If you feel compelled to heating up the area, then use a hair dryer and do it from a reasonable distance. I'm willing to bet all the people who have messed up the paint held the heat gun like 1-2" from the badge.

I'm in the process of touching up a couple of stone chips. While my chips are nowhere as grotesque as your chips, it blends well if you can successfully level it off. Polish and coat and it should be barely visible.
 
DON'T use the heat gun. If you feel compelled to heating up the area, then use a hair dryer and do it from a reasonable distance. I'm willing to bet all the people who have messed up the paint held the heat gun like 1-2" from the badge.

I'm in the process of touching up a couple of stone chips. While my chips are nowhere as grotesque as your chips, it blends well if you can successfully level it off. Polish and coat and it should be barely visible.
Ok no heat gun. Thanks again all for tips
 
FYI this happened with the front badge on my Stinger, but in red. Used a hair dryer and took my time, but still chipped off somehow. Honestly I thought it was a bad paint job or chipped before the badge was applied since I couldn't find a spec of red anywhere after the badge came off. Thankfully the new badge will cover most of the damage and the paint pen will take care of the rest. Odd no issues on the rear, it came off perfectly.
 
I would take my time and not even use the heat gun. Just apply goo gone. Let it sit for 10minutes. And use floss or fishing line to slowly break the glue off. Continously applying goo gone. And my fishing line was too strong. We go fishing in the gulf for big fish. When you do use it. Try to force the line towards you. So that the line is not rubbing against the paint. Because my line was rubbing against the paint it tore it apart. Just try to keep the line between glue and emblem. So that the glue is being rubbed and not the paint. It's a pain in the ass to remove all the glue after but at least your not messing up the paint.
I do not recommend turtle wax adhesive remover. It did a number in my yellow paint. It worked fine on my red one though.
 

Attachments

  • 680D779A-92BE-4694-A4AF-A1022F17FEF8.webp
    680D779A-92BE-4694-A4AF-A1022F17FEF8.webp
    75.8 KB · Views: 37
I do not recommend turtle wax adhesive remover. It did a number in my yellow paint. It worked fine on my red one though.
Yep good advice
I also used turtle wax. Did not use heat gun on rear, debadg went well no paint chips... was gonna do a good rinse off but had to help wife w baby diaper emergency
Later in the day noticed some of the turtle wax adhesive remover pooled between light and bottom edge of trunk. Melted paint. Bummer. Expensive bummer.
 

Attachments

  • 20180528_095554.webp
    20180528_095554.webp
    217.5 KB · Views: 48
  • 20180528_095534.webp
    20180528_095534.webp
    89.4 KB · Views: 48
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
They do say only leave for a minute ... but I'd write them with pictures attached anyway. That's a horrible outcome and doesn't feel automotive safe ... although I'm not sure what'd happen if you leave other such products on the paint.

In fact read the comments here: Car Label & Sticker Remover

I'd tell them to pay the repaint. They'll probably say "test on invisible area first" somewhere in the fine print...
 
Last edited:
Guys, my name is Brendan and I was one of the first Stinger owners in Australia, having picked up my car last October. Anyway, I am the guy who has had my Stinger stripped to bare metal and resprayed, all under warranty at a cost of AUD$20k.

There is DEFINITELY an issue with the paint on ALL Stingers, regardless of colour, build date, spec, LHD, RHD etc. as I have outlined in posts on various other forums and groups, the issue is that because the Stinger is the first ever Kia to use an aluminium hood, they had problems with adhesion so they didn’t use a conventional primer but instead used an etch primer on bare metal, followed by the white base coat (my car is yellow) which they then baked for 24hrs+. So no primer+etch primer+baking base coat = colour coat not adhering.

Korean executives and technical reps flew out to Sydney to inspect my vehicle and several parts such as the hood and bumpers were replaced and the old ones sent to PPG for testing and then to Korea for analysis.

When they removed the bumpers, the paint was literally flaking in their hands in some of the hidden/concealed edges.

In the last 24hrs, they have withdrawn both yellow and blue from sale in Australia and are apparently likely to withdraw the others soon.

I am more than happy to provide information and/or assistance/advice to anyone who needs or wants it. You can reach out to me via email which is brendan@knowles.live

I know there’s been questions about whether I’m full of shit so I have attached a copy of the paperwork I got when I picked up the car after respray. I’m also happy for anyone to come and inspect it.

Hope this info helps and I’m here if anyone needs more.

Cheers

Brendan
 

Attachments

  • 683F4696-2061-4372-95EF-4A0A46144C4F.webp
    683F4696-2061-4372-95EF-4A0A46144C4F.webp
    165.3 KB · Views: 40
Wow! Has it affected any Snow White pearl ? My car is fine but I did get ceramic coating done.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Kia Stinger
Back
Top