Buzzman12
Active Member
Sounds like a roll cage. Do it. That should stiffen things up.Actually, since I don't have anything behind the front seats, except for the carpet, I'm brainstorming the idea of bracing b-pillars to driveshaft tunnel.![]()
Sounds like a roll cage. Do it. That should stiffen things up.Actually, since I don't have anything behind the front seats, except for the carpet, I'm brainstorming the idea of bracing b-pillars to driveshaft tunnel.![]()
For a hatchback/fastback - with such a large rear opening in the unibody - loss of torsional stiffness is the biggest concern when it comes to structural rigidity. It does not help that rear opening is directly over the rear axle, where the forces acting upon the rear of the chassis will come from. Easiest way to visualize this is when one wheel hits a large bump and deflects that corner of the chassis upward. This contorts the chassis and can lead to adverse handling responses, if the chassis does not have sufficiently torsional rigidity.Actually, since I don't have anything behind the front seats, except for the carpet, I'm brainstorming the idea of bracing b-pillars to driveshaft tunnel.![]()
Thanks! That is informative reply. I was going to brace the rear wheel wells area at first. But I realized that just one flat bar wouldn't be doing much. And if I connect it to the floor area that woud decrease my trunk area. I load a lot of stuff from time to time in there. I guess I have more thinking to do. You think something like that should do.For a hatchback/fastback - with such a large rear opening in the unibody - loss of torsional stiffness is the biggest concern when it comes to structural rigidity. It does not help that rear opening is directly over the rear axle, where the forces acting upon to chassis rear will come from. Easiest way to visualize this when one wheel hits a large bump and deflects that corner of the chassis upward. This contorts the chassis and can lead to adverse handling responses, if the chassis does not have sufficiently torsional rigidity.
This is why you see a lot of mfrs will add stiffening braces between the rear shock towers/wheel wells. To be of any use, such braces need to be triangulated, which is why you often see an "X" brace. Adding a top cross bar to the "X" is also helpful as it turns the brace into a full lattice frame. However, adding just a straight cross bar would only resist tension, or maybe a bit of compression, but do little for torsional stiffening. If such a crossbar is added below the chassis to the underside of the floor pan, it would do even less good, as that cross bar would see little tension/compression strain - especially since it has to hug the floor pan very closely. It would help nothing for the torsional load the chassis is likely to be subjected to.
For a 2-door coupe sports car, the B-pillars are often right over the rear wheel wells, as bracing there makes perfect sense. However, on a 4-door sedan, bracing at the B-pillars is less effective in resisting chassis torsional strain, since they are typically near the center between the front/rear wheels.
FWIW, this is also why the G70 handles noticeably better at the track than the Stinger, even though the two cars are very closely related and share the exact same suspension. Stinger's 3" longer wheelbase makes a bit of difference, but it's G70's rear crossbracing - typical of a sedan body - that makes the most impact. Driving ours back to back, the difference is definitely noticeable.
There's reinforced area where rear seat belts bolt to. I think that should be the best spot for the upper section. For the bottom, you are probably right, some plates will have to be welded. Will just have to figure the way to position the bars, so I still have the option to carry 10feet 2x4s. Gotta love that stinger versatility.Either method would work. I have seen it done both ways.
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Most of them are mounted just behind the rear seatbacks to maintain as much trunk space utility as possible. The attachment points are just as important as the design of the cross bracing. Sometimes, stiffening plates need to be welded to the trunk floor to spread the stresses imposed by the cross bracing. Also, just because there are convenient attachment point don't necessarily mean they can be used for structural bracing. Again... just because somebody makes and sells something... doesn't mean they actually do what they claim they do. I pity the fools that buy into these stupidities:
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I did the same this morning... cabin air filter was nasty. Replaced it with a STP brand.I just changed the cabin air filter @ 15k miles. It’s super easy!
Could you share a link for the cabin air filter? I needed a change too. I checked Rock Auto, they have the WIX brand as well.I did the same this morning... cabin air filter was nasty. Replaced it with a STP brand.
Got mine from the local Autozone.Could you share a link for the cabin air filter? I needed a change too. I checked Rock Auto, they have the WIX brand as well.
Cool! That was quick. When you say "new one", you mean new to you, am I right? You didn't pick up one of the last c. dozen brand new Stingers still in the country?So after my last stinger was totaled im back in a new one. already painted mirror caps matte black, added a spoiler, threw the rear niche misanos from my last car on, added mud guards, and front lip. Today i put on the alternative lettering. There is still more modding to do but im loving the way its coming along.
That link isn't working??^^Funny. After watching the above clip, the following was recommended.
https:// www. youtube.com/watch?v=4PTTAiunIHY
has spaces in the URL for some reasonThat link isn't working??