The new brake snip?

[Zensa06]

Well, yes and no. Up to 2021 models, Limited had LSDs. In 2022, the Limited lost the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) and only the Elite now has the LSD (Limited Slip Differential).

I believe it was 2020 that they started getting LSD, so 2020-2021 Limited models.

 

[cncBilly]

Well, yes and no. Up to 2021 models, Limited had LSDs. In 2022, the Limited lost the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) and only the Elite now has the LSD (Limited Slip Differential).

Strike two. Only the GTS models which didn’t come out til 2020. Keep swing’in you’re bound to hit one.

 

[Grump]

Strike two. Only the GTS models which didn’t come out til 2020. Keep swing’in you’re bound to hit one.

I mean you can check yourself....
The full spec sheets list it.
https://www.kia.ca/content/vehicles/2020vmp/2020-stinger/brochures/MY20_Stinger_EN.pdf (GT LIMITED+)
https://www.kia.ca/content/vehicles/2022vmp/stinger/brochures/MY22_Stinger_EN.pdf (GT ELITE+)

It's more accurate to say Canadians have AWD-LSD than to say no AWDs come with LSD. Semantics and off topic anyway.

 

[Rome1017]

Tonka bob did one that I used, I just improved it with a temp push button. Here is his video

Do you switch between AWD and RWD with the car on and engine running? Or do you turn it off first? I've read warning lights can come on if you pull the fuse with the engine running.

 

[SnowyGT2]

Do you switch between AWD and RWD with the car on and engine running? Or do you turn it off first? I've read warning lights can come on if you pull the fuse with the engine running.

You can use the switch while the vehicle is running. No lights/warnings. I like to double check if it's on/off by going to vehicle settings and looking at the custom drive mode options. AWD setting will appear and disappear.

 

[Kimberly Lazarski]

re: "Beast Mode";

I think of that as Minecraft's Herobrine; a hoax/urban legend. Alternatively for portal fans: the cake is a lie; I have yet to see that unicorn where A in the IC flickers and have yet to see RPMs and boost climb while holding the car in launch mode.

 

[AWDGT2]

Oh it's there, trust me. If you've snipped the correct wire, and activated the switch, put it in D, wait while your foot is on the foot brake and give it about 1-2 min. The A will start flashing on your dash.

 

[rpoffen]

Tonka bob did one that I used, I just improved it with a temp push button. Here is his video

The only thing I don't like about this is that it is fine that he retained the inline fuse, but by putting it inside the passenger compartment, he has an unfused 12V circuit running along the cowling and through the firewall. If it were to move or short out to the metal ground, it will start a fire. I would recommend using one of those add a fuse products to keep the fuse in the engine fuse box, or put the inline fuse closer to the fuse box before running through the cowling or firewall.

 

[rpoffen]

So for a test, i pulled the fuse and I was unable to start the car, it said check the fuse. Indeed, the brake lights did not work.
I then put the fuse back in, brake lights work, and car starts. I can put drive mode is sport, disable traction and stability control and hold brake and mash the gas pedal and it goes into launch control, holding at about 2000 rpm. This is normal operation.
Then I shut off and restart the engine to reset everything, pull the fuse, brakes lights still work! In fact, I can put it into drive. I then put in sport mode, disable traction and stability control, hold the brake hard (I was testing in my driveway), and slowly pressed the gas pedal down watching boost and RPM, and it did not go into launch control and I got it up to 3000 RPM and 5 PSI boost before I let off the gas.
I am surprised that the brake lights work once the ignition is on, and that I can put it in gear with the fuse pulled. However it seems to override launch control and let me build boost.

 

[KDM_lostboy]

so basically, what I'm seeing here is pretty awesome to gain a boosted launch and get right now power with turbos. the rev up is clearly spooling harder when the line tap is on. but for the safety of your trans would it not be a good idea to then after you achieve the boost build up with a burn out or just the rev up alone.....you could probably go back and turn it off again and just do a normal launch control IF the boost is maintained internally at and for a WOT launch off the line. my thought with that is that if your car had been recently spooling building boost not all the boost is passed through BOV so there's still some in there if you don't blow off... by easing the pedal off rather than dumping. essentially the same idea with this to rebuild more boost for your next launch correct.... trans wear in mind rather launching while boosting, launch boosted. or does it not work that way and you have to be building boost while you're launching?

 

[D.J.]

my thought with that is that if your car had been recently spooling building boost not all the boost is passed through BOV so there's still some in there if you don't blow off... by easing the pedal off rather than dumping. essentially the same idea with this to rebuild more boost for your next launch correct.... trans wear in mind rather launching while boosting, launch boosted. or does it not work that way and you have to be building boost while you're launching?

What you just described seems to be like storing boiled hot water in the freezer for later use, as hot water.

 

[KDM_lostboy]

What you just described seems to be like storing boiled hot water in the freezer for later use, as hot water.

I feel that's a valid point, possibility and question from someone who is trying to understand and make sense for his own consideration and aspectual view. what you said makes no sense to me. boiled water is hot and obviously gets cold in the freezer. all you had to say is you can't store boost. i just figured if the boost was built up and didn't blow off its still in there 10 seconds later and you can do a normal launch to save the transmission some pain and launch with boost instead of launching while building boost as the original post had concern for that too, maybe I'm wrong but that's why I'm here, to learn.

 

[19 G70 3.3t]

Sorry to bring a post back from the dead, but I've got a question about this. I did this mod last night in preparation for a drag and drive event this winter and something unexpected happened... I was testing the switch in the driveway (working like it was supposed to) when the traction control light came on and the brake lights started working again with the switch in the off position! I even unplugged the whole contraption (the same as removing the fuse completely) and the brake lights still worked. I guess the ECU saw the open circuit and went around it? I pulled codes and it had a code in the ABS module for open circuit on the brake light switch. Has anyone else run across this? And, if so, how do you make this work long-term?

I used a Micro2 fuse tap wired through a 10 amp fuse then to a toggle switch to interrupt the brake light fuse.

 

[D.J.]

I used a Micro2 fuse tap wired through a 10 amp fuse then to a toggle switch to interrupt the brake light fuse.

Can you draw, or describe in complete detail what you did with the fuse tap (add a circuit)?

 

[rpoffen]

Sorry to bring a post back from the dead, but I've got a question about this. I did this mod last night in preparation for a drag and drive event this winter and something unexpected happened... I was testing the switch in the driveway (working like it was supposed to) when the traction control light came on and the brake lights started working again with the switch in the off position! I even unplugged the whole contraption (the same as removing the fuse completely) and the brake lights still worked. I guess the ECU saw the open circuit and went around it? I pulled codes and it had a code in the ABS module for open circuit on the brake light switch. Has anyone else run across this? And, if so, how do you make this work long-term?

I used a Micro2 fuse tap wired through a 10 amp fuse then to a toggle switch to interrupt the brake light fuse.

Yes, the circuit seems more complicated than just a simple fuse, switch and light. See my post earlier from Dec 2021 where I described similar behavior.

 

[19 G70 3.3t]

Can you draw, or describe in complete detail what you did with the fuse tap (add a circuit)?

I can't post pictures yet, but I used one of those yellow Micro 2 fuse adapters that turns the fuse into two wires. One of those goes through a 10 amp fuse in an inline fuse holder, then goes through a toggle switch and back to the other side of the fuse adapter.

Yes, the circuit seems more complicated than just a simple fuse, switch and light. See my post earlier from Dec 2021 where I described similar behavior.

I see that now. Thank you... I'm in the process now of trying to locate "Joint Connector JE01" in the car. This is the one that distributes the brake light switch signal to all of the various modules in the vehicle and ultimately leads to pin #83 in the ECU. I'm hoping that this connector is in the interior of the car so I can interrupt the wire there and don't have to run wires under the hood.

 

[19 G70 3.3t]

Update: I was able to locate Joint Connector JE01! It is strapped to the main bundle of wires that come through the firewall with cloth harness tape (very easy to miss at first glance) under the driver's side dash up against the side of the foot well. The wire to look for is the fourth slot (third wire) in from the right on the bottom row (pin # 29 in the connector). Snip the wire there, run it to a switch of your choice and then let the burnouts commence!

I removed the lower dash pad and fuse box just for extra room but it's not totally necessary.



A close-up of the wire to target:

 

[D.J.]

Update: I was able to locate Joint Connector JE01! It is strapped to the main bundle of wires that come through the firewall with cloth harness tape (very easy to miss at first glance) under the driver's side dash up against the side of the foot well. The wire to look for is the fourth slot (third wire) in from the right on the bottom row (pin # 29 in the connector). Snip the wire there, run it to a switch of your choice and then let the burnouts commence!

I removed the lower dash pad and fuse box just for extra room but it's not totally necessary.

View attachment 87169

A close-up of the wire to target:

View attachment 87170

You are doing the Lord's work I see!!

Are you able to share the wiring schematic as well? Or a link to it?

 

[19 G70 3.3t]

Sure thing. This is the schematic for the stop light switch circuit. Circled in red is Joint Connector JE01 pictured above. The red "X" is the wire I cut also pictured above.



Here is the pin-out for the connector: Keep in mind, this is the view from the front (terminal) side of the connector. When looking at it from the wire side, you'll need to invert the view so it ends up being the fourth cavity from the right instead of the left.