Did you buy it new? Cuz I haven't seen a base gt that didn't come with staggered 19s on it stock. My car is also awd. Only ones I've seen with 18s were the premium and gt-line cars.
If you want some easy pound savings on a track day, another idea is to run at half tank for every session, depending on consumption of course.
I was getting fuel starvation at just under 1/4 tank, so if you top up to about 1/2 after every session, that's an easy 50lbs right there.
I'm gonna guess that's not correct since we all know aluminum is lighter than steel, and I couldn't find any other sources for those parts' weights.
But if you ever get a chance to confirm, the forum members would forever be in your debt =)
If you want some easy pound savings on a track day, another idea is to run at half tank for every session, depending on consumption of course.
I was getting fuel starvation at just under 1/4 tank, so if you top up to about 1/2 after every session, that's an easy 50lbs right there.
You can and folks do do that, but I'd caution against letting your car get anywhere close to 1/4 tank. Running track burns a lot of gas and generate tremendous g forces, and regular production car fuel tanks are not as well internally baffled as a racing fuel cell. Your fuel pumps, both LP and HP do not like being starved of fuel.
On my own car, I start with it pretty much full and prefer to keep it mostly in the upper 1/2 of the capacity range. That first session, especially if it's a new track I'm unfamiliar with, I'm not going balls to the wall anyway.
Up to you to decide how to manage your risk factors.
I'm gonna guess that's not correct since we all know aluminum is lighter than steel, and I couldn't find any other sources for those parts' weights.
But if you ever get a chance to confirm, the forum members would forever be in your debt =)
Aluminum is roughly 1/3 of the steel weight. Obviously that aluminum bar is made of much thicker material than steel one. And like I sad, I haven't weighted them. But holding them gave me that ~10lbs difference. Of course I might be wrong here, and those numbers you have are correct. But definitely it is lighter. Sorry, I really don't feel good about disassembling everything to weight it. If I ever get to the point of removing it, because I have to, I will definitely weigh it.
Good point. First few sessions are just warm-up and getting to remember the track again, and by lunch time you're already about half tank anyway.
Is it possible to go too low and damages something without knowing it? When I starved the pump the first few times the only indication was a dead gas pedal. Nothing else came up on the dash to tell me something was up.
Is it possible to go too low and damages something without knowing it? When I starved the pump the first few times the only indication was a dead gas pedal. Nothing else came up on the dash to tell me something was up.
Yes. The symptoms can be anywhere between the dead gas pedal you experienced to slight hiccups to imperceptible. Whether damage was done and to what degree is not always definitive. A coworker of mine ran his late model Mercedes C-class sedan out of fuel once, filled back up and the fuel pump went kaputt and had to be replaced. But I've also heard of others who have done it more than once and their cars seemed okay. The only thing I know for sure is to avoid it if at all possible. Why tempt fate?
As for weighing stuff off the car, I'm kinda nutty about it. Between the bathroom scale and a 5lbs digital scale, I've weighed a crap ton of stuff. Every single wheel I've bought, of course. Suspension components, even down to replacement springs... just out of curiosity. Muffler and such are also good to know.
I've got to say though, that the ubiquitous "hand/arm scale" is about as infamously inaccurate as the butt dyno. Wayyy too easily influenced by preconceived notions of what we believe something should weigh. Same way that butt dyno is quite often calibrated more favorably toward performance mods that cost more $$$, whether it's actually worth it or not.
As for weighing stuff off the car, I'm kinda nutty about it. Between the bathroom scale and a 5lbs digital scale, I've weighed a crap ton of stuff. Every single wheel I've bought, of course. Suspension components, even down to replacement springs... just out of curiosity. Muffler and such are also good to know.
I've got to say though, that the ubiquitous "hand/arm scale" is about as infamously inaccurate as the butt dyno. Wayyy too easily influenced by preconceived notions of what we believe something should weigh. Same way that butt dyno is quite often calibrated more favorably toward performance mods that cost more $$$, whether it's actually worth it or not.
I'm weighing the floor mats and headrests etc too. Still have to do the rear folding seats and bench. Don't think I'll bother removing the front passenger seat, yet...
On that note, do you mount a fire extinguisher for track days?
Nope, for the same reason I don't have roll cage, 5point harness, and Recaro racing buckets. Yeah I occasionally have fun with it on the track, but this is far from a dedicated track bunny. Realistically, if that's what i wanted, I would've gotten an BRZ, Supra, or Camaro SS 1LE instead. I went with another Stinger because I wanted a comfy every day commuter with 4 real doors and 4 real seats, that is just sporty enough to have fun at the track, even if it's not the best car for that sort of thing.
Miata is unique in that it was designed from the get-go as a pure sports convertible, with the inherent structural stiffness to be a proper driver's car.
Most convertibles start out as sedan or coupe, so have to have reinforcement added to compensate for the chopped roof, adding weight and ending up
less sports car worthy. 370z falls into that category.