Rear sway bar - installation

Who performed the rear sway bar installation on your car?


  • Total voters
    68
You’ll need some arm strength for the one on the fuel line side. Not a lot of room but once you break it loose, you’ll be doing a lot of small movements to loosen and tighten. On the passenger side you have more room to work so those should be easier to get out.
 
You’ll need some arm strength for the one on the fuel line side. Not a lot of room but once you break it loose, you’ll be doing a lot of small movements to loosen and tighten. On the passenger side you have more room to work so those should be easier to get out.
I just ordered an 18" swivel head ratchet that other people have used, that should do it. The u joints twist the socket and it pops off the nut so that’s not working at all, and I’m loosing torque from the joint too. Will try again tomorrow when the ratchet arrives.
 
I’m also inclined to leave the end links attached until the brackets are off, once the end links are off the sway bar pops up and makes access more difficult
 
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3/8 th swivel head rachet and a mid length 14 mm socket should do it. Short 14 or long 14 mm won't work.
One click at a time.....
 
My Stinger Winger and I attempted the rear sway on my car Monday. It is a very finicky job. The bolts on the driver side are difficult which in our case was multipled by the fact I wasn't prepared with the proper tools. We did however manage to get the old one out and the Eibach in. We just couldn't get everything tight. So yesterday I took it to the guys that installed my MBRP and they got everything tightened up for just a 60 dollar cash hand shake. Would I do it again...YES...but not without the correct tools. Won't be jumping the gun like that again.
 
My Stinger Winger and I attempted the rear sway on my car Monday. It is a very finicky job. The bolts on the driver side are difficult which in our case was multipled by the fact I wasn't prepared with the proper tools. We did however manage to get the old one out and the Eibach in. We just couldn't get everything tight. So yesterday I took it to the guys that installed my MBRP and they got everything tightened up for just a 60 dollar cash hand shake. Would I do it again...YES...but not without the correct tools. Won't be jumping the gun like that again.
Do you notice a difference Willy ??
 
Do you notice a difference Willy ??
Haven't had the foot into it yet or driven it more than the mile home from the shop. But I did say to myself in that mile, "hmmm my bum feels tighter". Thanks again for your help, your space and your beer. :whistle: I need more friends like you:):thumbup:
 
Nice, yeah, that's definitely one of the trickier installs for sure. That fuel hose is a PITA.
 
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Since one of my stinger lease is up I tried to remove rear sway today and was defeated by that bolt next to fuel line.

I was planning to take it out and put it on another stinger we have. Getting swiel ratchet soon and will try again.
 
Since one of my stinger lease is up I tried to remove rear sway today and was defeated by that bolt next to fuel line.

I was planning to take it out and put it on another stinger we have. Getting swiel ratchet soon and will try again.
Get yourself a mid size socket as well. :thumbup:
 
Take the fuel bracket off in the wheel well too.
 
Mid size socket? You mean deep? or 3/8" vs 1/2"?
You have short sockets you have long sockets you want the medium one. The shorts are too short to get the ratchet on, the long one is to long to get on the bolt. The medium size is the ticket. I’d go 3/8. Good luck that one’s a bitch.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yeah, I looked at it when I had the wheels off last time. Looks like a real whore^∞.

I've never heard of long/med/short sockets. Just regular and deep. Is this some shortened version of a deep socket?

Can you take a measurement of the one you used, end to end?

Also, the holes on the eibach brackets are elongated. I imagine one needs to be careful to have both sides even to ensure the bar works properly. One of the video makes reference to being too close to the fuel line or the shock.

Hopefully will muster enough motivation over winter to do this sometime in the spring.
 
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I ended up giving money to another shop this time. They charged me 250 including tax and "supplies". I asked him why it took longer, he said he had to move differential down (not take it out) just down. Don't know what that means . Probably have to find different local shop.
 
I ended up giving money to another shop this time. They charged me 250 including tax and "supplies". I asked him why it took longer, he said he had to move differential down (not take it out) just down. Don't know what that means . Probably have to find different local shop.
It's not unusual to drop the diff a little as it provides easier access to bushings. It's also debatable if the additional time to do same is worth it. Best to agree on a fixed price rather than time based charges. Mine was dealer fitted at a fixed price but actually took longer than originally anticipated (mechanics hadn't done one before).
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^^What/why is that jack under?
Takes weight of diff and cross member assembly. Procedure is recommended by KIA.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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