If you are asking what you should fuse the wiring for the ECS10 - - the ECS10 draws well under 1 amp. Use the smallest fuse you can find in size MICRO2.
When adding a circuit, you are fusing the wiring. I used a 5A - but I would have used a 1A if I had one.
Plus 1 for the ATQ subframe collars. Can't explain the difference but it's better. I did those plus sway bars ( stock links ) and ECS10 and the car feels great and turns better. Haven't gone as far as chassis braces yet...
But those power wires for the ECS10 certainly can not handle 10A safely, and the ECS10 draws well under 1A.
I would use the smallest current fuse you can find.
But those power wires for the ECS10 certainly can not handle 10A safely, and the ECS10 draws well under 1A.
I would use the smallest current fuse you can find.
So old thread, but i just got my car and this upgrade was in my notes. i understand what it does and how, just fuzzy on the operation.
Stock, turn knob from sport to comfort = suspension adjusting along with throttle and transmission
ECS = turn knob and throttle changes with transmission, but suspension stays the same unless you put mess with the app in the phone.
Correct?
As of now i tend to switch between sport and comfort depending on highway or... not highway.. i dont really want to give up that soft right on the highway, but i dont want to be bumbling with my phone while driving either...
So old thread, but i just got my car and this upgrade was in my notes. i understand what it does and how, just fuzzy on the operation.
Stock, turn knob from sport to comfort = suspension adjusting along with throttle and transmission
ECS = turn knob and throttle changes with transmission, but suspension stays the same unless you put mess with the app in the phone.
Correct?
As of now i tend to switch between sport and comfort depending on highway or... not highway.. i dont really want to give up that soft right on the highway, but i dont want to be bumbling with my phone while driving either...
Correct. Suspension stays the same until you change it via the APP.
I have mine set to comfort 99% of the time but if I want an extra comfy ride or the roads are really crappy, I have a setting where everything is set to ZERO. It's VERY comfy. Going into the APP is a bit of a pain but for the amount of times I change, it's not a problem.
Correct. Suspension stays the same until you change it via the APP.
I have mine set to comfort 99% of the time but if I want an extra comfy ride or the roads are really crappy, I have a setting where everything is set to ZERO. It's VERY comfy. Going into the APP is a bit of a pain but for the amount of times I change, it's not a problem.
On your real comfy mode is your Ride and Handling set to 0? And u left it on basic. I'm lowered on Ark Springs, with Sway Bars and Endlinks. W ATQ'S. So I'm curious. How "0" will feel. I wish the stock default setting of SPORT AND COMFORT SHOWED US the bench mark if that those are set at.
On your real comfy mode is your Ride and Handling set to 0? And u left it on basic. I'm lowered on Ark Springs, with Sway Bars and Endlinks. W ATQ'S. So I'm curious. How "0" will feel. I wish the stock default setting of SPORT AND COMFORT SHOWED US the bench mark if that those are set at.
I'm on stock springs but I do have Sway Bars and ATQ's and when it's set to ALL ZERO ( ride & handling ) it's very comfy !
We have a road not too far from me called Parramatta Road and it's more like a goat track than a road ( every time I've driven on it ) and with the ALL ZERO setting, it's smooth as silk.
Try it ! You'll be shocked at how nice it is. But for all normal driving ( 99% of mine ) I use Comfort setting.
It would be a semi complicated curve - that gets progressively more damped as speed increases - maybe a linear curve - maybe not.
Just play with it testing many many different profiles. And have fun
in the beginning, I used to make 4 different profiles while siting on my couch - with settings I thought would be good - then went for a drive - and applied/tested each of those profiles, learing what each change did. My first several profiles were VERY different from each other so the changes were not subltle. Very obvious changes are easy to detect with my butt dyno.
I have even tried a profile with ride set to 0% and handling set to 100% - to get a feeing for how quickly the adaptive suspension can adapt. (It's quick, but I don't have numbers).
There is no golden (BEST) setting - there are so many different preferences and driving conditions/syles etc. - my setting aren't better than anyone's, they are just preferred by me for me (I am a commuter - not a racer!). I have had the ECS10 for years and I still switch profiles about once a week - depending on my mood - or who my passengers are.
With the current version of the app (1.16 android) - and the auto connect setting enabled - just opening the app - wait about 10 seconds and it's already connected. 1 single tap to switch profile. - easy peesy. It has worked perfectly for me 100 out of the last 100 times
Bro!! THis is perfect. Everything I need to hook this up. Thank you so much! - I have a dumb question though: If the MANDO Box comes with a power source connector then why do some people use a posi-tap to get power?
Also -How is your driving experience with the BOX? Do you love it? Can you feel a difference when cornering and breaking? Does the steering get tighter as well?
So many questions i know..... get back to me when you can. ...and thank you again for the detailed reply.- E
I’m not D.J., but I’ve been enjoying my Mando SDC EDS10 for a while now. It allows me to fix what I thought was the worst handling behavior for my use of the car…the wallow in the rear on anything but smooth curves.
Yes, a rear anti-sway bar is likely the best solution, but I’m able to tune out most of this by ensuring the rear stiffness is higher than the front by at least 10%…even in the softest comfort tune.
Plus, I’ve created a tune that both more comfortable and more sure-footed and a tune that’s capable of canyon carving. You can (well, I can) really feel the difference between them.
We’re only changing dampening characteristics here, so no real changes to steering, but with roll and pitch better controlled, there is a bit more immediacy to the steering since there’s less body and suspension/steering movement to wait for. The car feels a bit lighter, sharper, and sure-footed.
Best bang-for-the-buck so far!…though I REALLY wish a tune select (not tune edit) CarPlay app was available. I’d rather not have to pull over to switch tunes.
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