Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

what’s your DA? Lozic tune seems to act conservatively when it comes to high DA environment. Me and Pearly are using JB4 to add more boost for 4500,5000,5500,6000rpm by 0.5 to 2 psi to milk more high end power and it works great. Go check your boost curve for a full 1/4 run on JB4 and it might gives you the answer why you’re slower than you expected.
DA was around 280. IAT was 82 at the start of the run and 64 by the end. Boost stayed between 19.5-21.1, tapering in the higher rpms. Timing peaked around 17 and there were a lot of corrections. I typically get less than 2 degrees of corrections on 75-80 degree days running 93 and ing. 1 going as high as 19.5. Which is why I suspect the fuel not actually being 100 octane.
 
DA was around 280. IAT was 82 at the start of the run and 64 by the end. Boost stayed between 19.5-21.1, tapering in the higher rpms. Timing peaked around 17 and there were a lot of corrections. I typically get less than 2 degrees of corrections on 75-80 degree days running 93 and ing. 1 going as high as 19.5. Which is why I suspect the fuel not actually being 100 octane.
Try reset the ecu by unplug it for 15min+. I actually get 0.1s 1/8 mile off right after I reset once I noticed timing pull. Once it starts to pull lots of timing it takes forever to push the timing back so reset it is what we do all the time. Actually for me it seems like the timing pull only being triggered after a 3rd or 4rd gear WOT pull. When I shift at the normal shift points like daily driving or even go to the track it will stay clean log all the time.
 
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Try reset the ecu by unplug it for 15min+. I actually get 0.1s 1/8 mile off right after I reset once I noticed timing pull. Once it starts to pull lots of timing it takes forever to push the timing back so reset it is what we do all the time. Actually for me it seems like the timing pull only being triggered after a 3rd or 4rd gear WOT pull. When I shift at the normal shift points like daily driving or even go to the track it will stay clean log all the time.
I'll give that a shot this weekend.
 
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Funny y'all mentioned the manual shifting issue. I was experiencing it this morning. I got tired of fighting it and just let auto shift control 1>2>3 then used the paddles after that but not until 5.5k.

Does anyone believe I can get into the 10's with weight reduction (remove passenger seat, rear seat & spare tire), lightweight wheels, better 60ft and sooner shift points? Or am I to far away?

My best so far:
 

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Funny y'all mentioned the manual shifting issue. I was experiencing it this morning. I got tired of fighting it and just let auto shift control 1>2>3 then used the paddles after that but not until 5.5k.

Does anyone believe I can get into the 10's with weight reduction (remove passenger seat, rear seat & spare tire), lightweight wheels, better 60ft and sooner shift points? Or am I to far away?

My best so far:
weight reduction will help for sure, also, try shifting around 5700 as the powerband is the same from 5200 to 5800. You are coming up on Joel pretty quick.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
weight reduction will help for sure, also, try shifting around 5700 as the powerband is the same from 5200 to 5800. You are coming up on Joel pretty quick.
I updated my signature to 1.6bar ECU. But I'm not stacking a JB4 or anything. Only using the Lozic ECU. Need to get a dyno test sometime to see where I'm at and what the power curve looks like for my Stinger.
 
I updated my signature to 1.6bar ECU. But I'm not stacking a JB4 or anything. Only using the Lozic ECU. Need to get a dyno test sometime to see where I'm at and what the power curve looks like for my Stinger.
Do you have the log for that run?
 
I updated my signature to 1.6bar ECU. But I'm not stacking a JB4 or anything. Only using the Lozic ECU. Need to get a dyno test sometime to see where I'm at and what the power curve looks like for my Stinger.
did you take a log of that run by any chance? if the 1.6bar is capable of an 11.2.... I am very excited.
 
did you take a log of that run by any chance? if the 1.6bar is capable of an 11.2.... I am very excited.
Do you have the log for that run?
It's a Lap3 log because I have their S4 meth kit. The RPM refresh rate is slow but you can see the boost curve and timing in detail
 

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It's a Lap3 log because I have their S4 meth kit. The RPM refresh rate is slow but you can see the boost curve and timing in detail
Was wanting to see at what RPM it is actually shifting at, but hard if the RPM refresh rate is off.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
It's a Lap3 log because I have their S4 meth kit. The RPM refresh rate is slow but you can see the boost curve and timing in detail
So what do you have plugged into the OBD2 system? Usually an overloaded system causes rediculious timing in ign 4-6 like that.
 
So what do you have plugged into the OBD2 system? Usually an overloaded system causes rediculious timing in ign 4-6 like that.
Only the lap3 s4 controller
 
So what do you have plugged into the OBD2 system? Usually an overloaded system causes rediculious timing in ign 4-6 like that.
Any idea as to what could be causing those erroneous knock detect readings?
 
Any idea as to what could be causing those erroneous knock detect readings?
Well, every time its happened to me, its because more than one thing was attached to my OBD2 system, as I can run my JB4 through the port in my engine bay, so the Cabin port is left open. I would ask Lap3 if thats all that is plugged in.
 
DA was around 280. IAT was 82 at the start of the run and 64 by the end. Boost stayed between 19.5-21.1, tapering in the higher rpms. Timing peaked around 17 and there were a lot of corrections. I typically get less than 2 degrees of corrections on 75-80 degree days running 93 and ing. 1 going as high as 19.5. Which is why I suspect the fuel not actually being 100 octane.
Just trying to make sure I understand.

Did you go to the track and run on 93 octane and then in the same day/timeframe run on 100 octane?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Just trying to make sure I understand.

Did you go to the track and run on 93 octane and then in the same day/timeframe run on 100 octane?
No, previous days I was only running 93 and all was good.
I put in the 10 gallons of 100 octane the day before going to the track. When I put the 100 octane in, I had less than half a gallon of 93 still in the tank.
 
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Would having the non wmi ecu and using wmi hurt anything? Considering getting wmi, but not sure if I'll be able to send the ecu back right away.
 
Would having the non wmi ecu and using wmi hurt anything? Considering getting wmi, but not sure if I'll be able to send the ecu back right away.
No it wont hurt anything
 
This is two 1/4 runs log that used JB4 map6 to add 0.5-2psi for 4500rpm and above. I’m wondering if this much timing pull is acceptable.
 

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Quick question.. but is there a decent OBD connected tool for logging instead of the JB4? I want to eventually get a Lozic ECU and TCU, I'd rather not spend the extra on a JB4 for just logging at that point if there is a good OBD connected logger. Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm just not sure what options there are.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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