Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

So the TCU can be reprogrammed? I was always under the impression that once it was programmed it locked
probably depends on the way it was programmed.
 
Got a Lozic 1.5 bar ECU and TCU tune with 2 pressure and -8% which shifts between 6-6.2k. Was at the track last night and using the paddle shifters to shift closer to 5.5k but every time I shifted into 4th, it would go to 4th for a few split seconds then shift back to 3rd then back up to 4th at 6k. Also my logs on the JB4 do not show the MPH accurately. Example, when I let of the throttle after a run, it was showing 98 MPH in the logs despite my trap speed being 116.

Anyone else have these issues?
 
Got a Lozic 1.5 bar ECU and TCU tune with 2 pressure and -8% which shifts between 6-6.2k. Was at the track last night and using the paddle shifters to shift closer to 5.5k but every time I shifted into 4th, it would go to 4th for a few split seconds then shift back to 3rd then back up to 4th at 6k. Also my logs on the JB4 do not show the MPH accurately. Example, when I let of the throttle after a run, it was showing 98 MPH in the logs despite my trap speed being 116.
Anyone else have these issues?

That down shift problem is literally bugging everyone. It is caused by the kickdown switch in the end of the pedal. Either try stop the pedal before the switch or go buy that kickdown delete block from burger is the solution.
 
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Guess I need to pay better attention to the forum! This is the first I've heard about the kickdown. Thanks!
Any insight about the inaccurate MPH in the logs?
 
I've never heard of it either. A kick down switch on a paddle meant to shift up??? I'm confused. I've heard talk of a gas pedal kickdown switch which supposedly makes the car more eager to downshift when it's pressed all the way down, but I wasn't sure if that actually existed. Can you explain a bit more?
 
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I've never heard of it either. A kick down switch on a paddle meant to shift up??? I'm confused. I've heard talk of a gas pedal kickdown switch which supposedly makes the car more eager to downshift when it's pressed all the way down, but I wasn't sure if that actually existed. Can you explain a bit more?
It’s like when you early shift with paddles at around 5500 rpm and floored the gas padel after the kickdown switch, the car downshifts itself to finish the rest of the rpms in the previous gear. Some complain about 3-4 gears when doing 1/4 mile runs and most people complain about 4-5 gears when doing 60-130 runs.
 
Wait so this is a known issue? I thought I was the only one having this issue. damn good to know im not alone!
 
Wait so this is a known issue? I thought I was the only one having this issue. damn good to know im not alone!
Yup and it’s scary asf cuz it literally feels like something wrong with valve body and you need a new one.
 
Yup and it’s scary asf cuz it literally feels like something wrong with valve body and you need a new one.
Does this happen with other TCU tunes as well as for as you are aware? cuz I had something similar happen on my tork TCU a few times but not nearly as often.
 
Does this happen with other TCU tunes as well as for as you are aware? cuz I had something similar happen on my tork TCU a few times but not nearly as often.
It even happened when I’m having stock TCU with JB4 so I assume it’s all kickdown switch’s fault.
 
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It even happened when I’m having stock TCU with JB4.
Interesting. I dont think Ive ever had it happen with the stock TCU
 
Guess I need to pay better attention to the forum! This is the first I've heard about the kickdown. Thanks!
Any insight about the inaccurate MPH in the logs?
its inaccurate because of the way the speed limiter is removed or adjusted. nothing is wrong, its just the way its done. the speedo you can see on your car is accurate. dont worry about the speed on the Log.
 
its inaccurate because of the way the speed limiter is removed or adjusted. nothing is wrong, its just the way its done. the speedo you can see on your car is accurate. dont worry about the speed on the Log.
Ooh okay, that makes sense. Thanks for the info.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Got a Lozic 1.5 bar ECU and TCU tune with 2 pressure and -8% which shifts between 6-6.2k. Was at the track last night and using the paddle shifters to shift closer to 5.5k but every time I shifted into 4th, it would go to 4th for a few split seconds then shift back to 3rd then back up to 4th at 6k. Also my logs on the JB4 do not show the MPH accurately. Example, when I let of the throttle after a run, it was showing 98 MPH in the logs despite my trap speed being 116.

Anyone else have these issues?
I let the car autoshift. What did you run?
 
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I let the car autoshift. What did you run?
11.89 @116. Only 0.06 and 3mph faster than before WMI and tunes. I think I had some bad fuel. Grabbed some 100 octane racing fuel from a local station and was getting a bunch of timing corrections.
 
11.89 @116. Only 0.06 and 3mph faster than before WMI and tunes. I think I had some bad fuel. Grabbed some 100 octane racing fuel from a local station and was getting a bunch of timing corrections.
You have to separate ET from trap speed. 3mph is not a small gain either. I will say that with your mods, I'm a little surprised that it's not faster though. I ran 11.8 last year from lozic on less aggressive ecu and TCU and only a muffler delete. No snorkels or cat upgrades.

I have similar upgrades to you and it's trapping higher and running a little faster even with bad 60 ft. What was your 60ft?
 
You have to separate ET from trap speed. 3mph is not a small gain either. I will say that with your mods, I'm a little surprised that it's not faster though. I ran 11.8 last year from lozic on less aggressive ecu and TCU and only a muffler delete. No snorkels or cat upgrades.

I have similar upgrades to you and it's trapping higher and running a little faster even with bad 60 ft. What was your 60ft?
60ft was 1.77 and a Draggy verified 3.60 0-60 without a 1ft rollout. Before I added the tunes, I noticed that I would trap higher but run slower if I let it shift itself. The 11.95@113 was manual shifting while shifting its self was running around 12.3@114-115.

I too think I should be running faster. On pump 93, timing corrections were under 2 across the board. Last night with 100, was getting as high as 6.5-7.2 on cylinders 3 and 4. Gonna pull my plugs to check them out and recheck the gap, gapped them to .022 when installed.
 
60ft was 1.77 and a Draggy verified 3.60 0-60 without a 1ft rollout. Before I added the tunes, I noticed that I would trap higher but run slower if I let it shift itself. The 11.95@113 was manual shifting while shifting its self was running around 12.3@114-115.

I too think I should be running faster. On pump 93, timing corrections were under 2 across the board. Last night with 100, was getting as high as 6.5-7.2 on cylinders 3 and 4. Gonna pull my plugs to check them out and recheck the gap, gapped them to .022 when installed.
what’s your DA? Lozic tune seems to act conservatively when it comes to high DA environment. Me and Pearly are using JB4 to add more boost for 4500,5000,5500,6000rpm by 0.5 to 2 psi to milk more high end power and it works great. Go check your boost curve for a full 1/4 run on JB4 and it might gives you the answer why you’re slower than you expected.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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