Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

[RandyNJ]

Read about people having overboost issues and it made me concerned. Would 1.5bar be okay with no wmi and always running 93? Seen varying preferences from people on the tcu too. I don't mind harsh shifts, but just concerned about stress on the car as it's my daily. Was thinking pressure 2 and -8%?

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Read about people having overboost issues and it made me concerned. Would 1.5bar be okay with no wmi and always running 93? Seen varying preferences from people on the tcu too. I don't mind harsh shifts, but just concerned about stress on the car as it's my daily. Was thinking pressure 2 and -8%?

That entirely depends on the quality of 93 you have. Do you have a way to take logs now? before the tune?

 

[Stinger603]

Read about people having overboost issues and it made me concerned. Would 1.5bar be okay with no wmi and always running 93? Seen varying preferences from people on the tcu too. I don't mind harsh shifts, but just concerned about stress on the car as it's my daily. Was thinking pressure 2 and -8%?

For your ecu if you are concerned about overboost and possible timing issues. You will want to get EWG connectors from BMS to go with a JB4, and the HKS plugs gapped to .022-.026 most people recommend .022-.023 gap. The settings to use with the EWGs are on the forum for JB4 stuff. I'm having those problems right now, and BMS recommended me to do this. I haven't received them yet, but I'm hopeful that it will fix my problems. I don't know anything about the TCU though.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

For your ecu if you are concerned about overboost and possible timing issues. You will want to get EWG connectors from BMS to go with a JB4, and the HKS plugs gapped to .022-.026 most people recommend .022-.023 gap. The settings to use with the EWGs are on the forum for JB4 stuff. I'm having those problems right now, and BMS recommended me to do this. I haven't received them yet, but I'm hopeful that it will fix my problems. I don't know anything about the TCU though.

Good to hear at least some solution is being attempted!

 

[RandyNJ]

That entirely depends on the quality of 93 you have. Do you have a way to take logs now? before the tune?

Nothing to log with as of now. Planned to get jb4 or see if there's any other ways to log when I decide to get the ecu tune. I don't really think quality of 93 will be an issue seeing as there's many gas stations nearby. Even have access to e85, but just unsure if I want to go that crazy with mods.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Nothing to log with as of now. Planned to get jb4 or see if there's any other ways to log when I decide to get the ecu tune. I don't really think quality of 93 will be an issue seeing as there's many gas stations nearby. Even have access to e85, but just unsure if I want to go that crazy with mods

Solid plan. you will probably be fine with 93, though if you want to be sure, you can splash like 3-4 gallons of e85 in there as well to help out.

 

[RandyNJ]

Solid plan. you will probably be fine with 93, though if you want to be sure, you can splash like 3-4 gallons of e85 in there as well to help out.

Wouldn't cpi be needed to run any blend of e or am I mistaken?

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Wouldn't cpi be needed to run any blend of e or am I mistaken?

Nope, CPI adds another injector so you can run more fuel. the stinger can do an e30 mix no problem even stock.

 

[XGC75]

Well, hello. Back after 60+ pages to blow up this thread.

First, wow there have been a lot of updates (yes I read through it all). May have to get a TCU retune with my "2021 era" ECU... Seems he's seeped more power out and added a BUNCH of features I want, like

• octane-dependency (ECU)
• better boost ready (ECU)
• more boost by mode options (ECU)
• more exhaust bubbles/pop configuration (ECU)
• Sport+ shifting (TCU)
• smooth 2-1shift (TCU)

Lozic is definitely the fun option for ECU tuning.

Really not sure about boost ready, though. It seems based on @CraigS's feedback, one can feel the transition as an increase in throttle sensitivity (therefore torque and acceleration), but this is my family/daily car so I don't want to hit that inadvertently. This one is especially difficult for me to make a decision as I have the first version of boost by mode (0.3 Eco, 0.7 Comfort, full Sport) which raises shift points so I pretty consistently hit 2400-2600 rpm in daily driving. I'm not sure if I go with 0.9 Eco, 1.2 Comfort I will ever hit 2200 in brisk (not WOT) acceleration due to the additional torque.

Just wanted to share my experience with lozic ecu and tcu. I have power by mode d for 91 octane on comfort and 93 octane on sport (1.4 bar). Apparently the 91 octane available in my town is not great. Even on jb4 map1 before I had the ecu, I would be over 5 degrees timing correction. With ecu in comfort it went to 9 (I was watching gauges and stopped pull immediately). Luckily with 5 gallons e85 and 10 gallons 91, logs are good and it runs beautifully in comfort and sport. It completely transformed the car. It is all grins driving this thing, I'm thrilled. Sport mode is just a blast. When I first installed, car would turn over but not start, unplugging ecu for a few minutes fixed it. Lozic has been extremely responsive and wonderful. I'm still deciding if I adjust the tune because he said correcting comfort for poorer fuel will make sport mode slower too. Seems like you'd be able to limit boost to like .5 and accomplish that, but what do I know. I may just end up using jb4 valet mode if I get in situation with no e85 and see how logs look. The only odd behavior is related to boost ready I believe. I have it on at 2,200, and sometimes you can feel it surge when the rpms reach that point. Feels a little strange under normal moderate acceleration when gear changes put rpms around 2k, it feels like some surging as it passes that 2.2k spot. No big deal, all things considered I'm a very very satisfied customer. He's an awesome guy to work with.

Even if I turn on boost ready above 3k rpm, will it matter? The engine and turbo are already spinning rapidly so I don't see how the electronics could juice up the turbo even more. <2.5k rpm I can see. Above, not so much. Law of diminishing returns, almost.

Also, for those with the updated boost by mode, does the throttle sensitivity still change between modes? With my car, I can switch from comfort to sport at the same throttle input and the car will surge ahead. Like it suddenly doubles the throttle body % at the same pedal position. I would really like to get rid of that.

 

[XGC75]

Reading through some of these topics has me like Matthew McConaughey in Interstellar, trying desperately to communicate with people in the past but no one can hear me .

First, Boost vs power. Boost is dependent on flow rate and restrictions. If the compressor is spinning at 100% speed and the throttle is closed or the valve timing is restricted, boost will build because the air has nowhere to go (Lozic said himself, "And since the boost gauge is a sensor mounted on the outside of the throttle, it is displayed higher because of the throttle limit."). If your throttle is full open and valves are well timed then boost will drop because the flow has fewer restrictions and the air has somewhere to go. And more air flow means more oxygen which means more fuel which means more power. Especially for small turbos like these, the increase in flow after combustion doesn't necessarily increase turbo efficiency and lead to more flow in the intake (and therefore more boost) because the turbo is already well out of its most efficient zone. Tldr; turbos are unintuitive and "more boost, more powa" isn't always the case. "more flow, more fuel, more powa" is.

Here is the response from Lozic so far- in case any of you are curious.

...

And since the boost gauge is a sensor mounted on the outside of the throttle, it is displayed higher because of the throttle limit.

The boost pressure of the actual manifold is lower.

Peak boost doesn't mean faster. I guarantee the Lozic 1.4 will be far superior to JB4 map 2

Exactly. Flow with fuel to compensate = power. Boost is a convenient proxy, most of the time. Not this time it seems.

Also, regarding the dealer picking up tunes. All microcontrollers have a limited number of write cycles on their flash memory, so the micros have built-in counters so the micro manufacturers can honor or void warranties for the electronic control manufactures. Even Bosch don't control these registers. So Lozic's tunes will definitely be flagged using this data, much less the fingerprint/CRC will not match the digital twin recorded at the OEM factory test station. But according to Adoom below if the ECU overwrites everything from some other control in the CAN bus, it would be very hard to find evidence of tampering. Having said all that, if Kia/Genesis want to honor your warranty it's up to them. They're just more likely to void your warranty based on whether they like you and had enough coffee that morning. This info only really matters if you care to take them to court over it.

So with a typical ECU, Yes, I would agree, However our (and other Kia/Hyundai ECU's) Where built very... lazily in that regard. I have it right from the Kia techline When my motor was replaced, that the integrity checks for the ECU's are largely based on RAM Storage instead of your typical flash memory, meaning that if they don't have power for a certain amount of time, all the information stored in that RAM storage, is just.... Gone. That is why resetting information such as the fuel adaptive is as easy as disconnecting the battery. As far as I have seen, the only things that are really stored Long term on the ECU's are Engine maps, VIN information, and other stuff that typically does not change on a car, ever.

mileage, fuel economy, Boost numbers, and information like that is all variable, So it is stored in the short term RAM storage.

Your cars mileage is tracked in one of the CANBUS modules, so when the ECU looks at it to check apon ignition, instead of throwing up a Discrepancy, it just more or less deletes what it had last remembered the mileage at and just overrides it with what the canbus is reporting.

Now, all of this is information I got directly from the tech who worked on my car, Who IS "Stinger Certified" and is very knowledgeable on cars in general, Not the typical idiots that most kia dealers hire. He has dealt with this kind of issues before and he said that what I have stated above is more or less how the ECU thinks.

So Realistically If a dealer thinks your ECU has been tampered with, Id say with a 95% certainty, its because you scratched the paint on where the ecu sits, and not that they can actually tell.

NOW, Take everything I have said here with a BIG Grain of salt, as I am not a kia employee and have not disassembled an ECU to verify RAM chips, PCB traces, or anything that would verify these claims. I am just passing on what I have been told. Don't shoot the messenger.

 

[AtomicGTL]

Well, hello. Back after 60+ pages to blow up this thread.

First, wow there have been a lot of updates (yes I read through it all). May have to get a TCU retune with my "2021 era" ECU... Seems he's seeped more power out and added a BUNCH of features I want, like

• octane-dependency (ECU)
• better boost ready (ECU)
• more boost by mode options (ECU)
• more exhaust bubbles/pop configuration (ECU)
• Sport+ shifting (TCU)
• smooth 2-1shift (TCU)

Lozic is definitely the fun option for ECU tuning.

Really not sure about boost ready, though. It seems based on @CraigS's feedback, one can feel the transition as an increase in throttle sensitivity (therefore torque and acceleration), but this is my family/daily car so I don't want to hit that inadvertently. This one is especially difficult for me to make a decision as I have the first version of boost by mode (0.3 Eco, 0.7 Comfort, full Sport) which raises shift points so I pretty consistently hit 2400-2600 rpm in daily driving. I'm not sure if I go with 0.9 Eco, 1.2 Comfort I will ever hit 2200 in brisk (not WOT) acceleration due to the additional torque.



Even if I turn on boost ready above 3k rpm, will it matter? The engine and turbo are already spinning rapidly so I don't see how the electronics could juice up the turbo even more. <2.5k rpm I can see. Above, not so much. Law of diminishing returns, almost.

Also, for those with the updated boost by mode, does the throttle sensitivity still change between modes? With my car, I can switch from comfort to sport at the same throttle input and the car will surge ahead. Like it suddenly doubles the throttle body % at the same pedal position. I would really like to get rid of that.

Welcome back!

As far as boost by mode (currently equipped with mode D) the throttle input softens on my desired bars. So, for me eco/comfort is set to 1.2 and sport to 1.3. One has a higher sensitivity throttle input than the other which is perfect for me.

 

[XGC75]

Thanks, I'll see if this is something we can choose in future revisions.

 

[Yves998]

A not so well launch gives personal best run. I guess my log is not lying about the car is running more ideally.

 

[AtomicGTL]

A not so well launch gives personal best run. I guess my log is not lying about the car is running more ideally.

Almost in 11s, you can do itt

 

[Slip_Angle]

A not so well launch gives personal best run. I guess my log is not lying about the car is running more ideally.

Auto shifting? Try hitting the paddles for the 1-2 at 4500 and then the rest at 5200.

 

[Yves998]

Auto shifting? Try hitting the paddles for the 1-2 at 4500 and then the rest at 5200.

-10% auto shifting yes. I’ll give it a try for shorter shifting for sure.

 

[RandyNJ]

About ready to send in my order. Stuck between pressure 2 or 3 for the tcu. It seems pressure 2 is the more common choice. Is this due to comfort and people not liking hard shifts or should I be concerned about things breaking if I go pressure 3?

 

[HoosierStinger]

Anyone want to critique my log feel free. 93 + 4 gal E85 run 30-120mph on a hot summer night in Indiana. I've observed that cyl 2,4,6 always has a little more retard than cyl 1,3,5. Any hypothesis for that? Maybe fuel pump placement?

 

[AtomicGTL]

About ready to send in my order. Stuck between pressure 2 or 3 for the tcu. It seems pressure 2 is the more common choice. Is this due to comfort and people not liking hard shifts or should I be concerned about things breaking if I go pressure 3?

I got pressure 3. After getting my ecu, those hard shifts went away

 

[Yves998]

About ready to send in my order. Stuck between pressure 2 or 3 for the tcu. It seems pressure 2 is the more common choice. Is this due to comfort and people not liking hard shifts or should I be concerned about things breaking if I go pressure 3?

I went for pressure 2 and I’d like to say it’s not feeling aggressive at all. Stock tcu really feels horrible with tuned ecu comparing once you have tried tuned tcu.